high-po alternator?

[krakhedd]

Hey guys,

I don't want to spend $413.95 at one of the local auto stores for a 180-amp alternator. I am mostly wondering if I can pull an alternator off of something in the junkyard, that will fit & adapt to my existing connections with little/no modification. I'm about to call a guy back on the high-po that came with the towing package, but have a feeling I'm SOL (nobody else in the area has them).

Also, what year alternators would work on my 01? Local MOPAR dealer said there was 1 listing for 01; that local auto store said there were listings from 9x-00, and 01 had its own separate listing (which that alternator was not even listed for, come to think of it.....it was for the 9x-00)

Thanks guys!

 

[5-90]

Click the link in my sig, and go to "San Jose Generator." He's doing mail-order now, builds dead reliable gear (it's what I use in all my rigs, and any side jobs I do,) and for the work you get, the prices are quite reasonable...

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[JoesXJ]

....when upgradding to a higher output atlernator, is there anything else you need to do? Sorry to hijack.

 

[CartsXJ]

I am not sure about what years work, but I put a 136amp output alt, from a 98 GC with the 5.9L V8 in my 98 XJ, had to do a little grinding to make it fit, but works great. And definitely helps with the winching duties.

 

[5-90]

The use of heavier "mains" cables is highly recommended - and because the OEM was skimpy with the cables, not just because I make them.

Most OEMR mains cables are about 8 gage - which is downright pathetic when dealing with currents of 100A or more. I'd consider 4 gage a dead minimum - I use 1 gage to make my cables, with 4 gage for "secondary" distribution (power to accessories and distribution posts.)

It is also worth considering re-routing the alternator output lead to an ANL fuze block, rather than the OEMR PCM or fusible link. This allows you to inspect the fuzes more easily, and you can readily substitute a higher-value fuze when you upgrade. I haven't developed kits yet - but I can give you a source for parts. One of these days, I'll have enough test animals handy to figure out kit applications.

If you'd like more information on what I do, that's why there's a link in my sig - click it, and feel free to ask (backchannel, please) if you still have any questions. Even without an alternator upgrade, I've gotten very good reports from installing my cables to "refresh" the mains system - things like brighter headlamps, slightly quicker starts, and more stable alternator output being the norm there.

If you'd like to find out more about what customers have said, I suppose we can start a thread asking for "reports from the field" - but I'd consider it tacky if I started it...

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[krakhedd]

Nah man, I trust you well enough. My problem is that I've got an amplifier with a c.50 amp draw at full power, which, since I think it takes about 50 or 60 amps to just run a vehicle (especially with the headlights on, HVAC fan on high, and rear defogger on), is going to result in me trying to put out another alternator fire, only this time, neither do I carry in the vehicle, nor do I have, a fire extinguisher.

My 99 got by fine running around 600 watts RMS of sound system, off a 1F capacitor, and the stock alternator, the higher-output model included on XJs with the towing package (I forget the output rating, 136 or 150 amps or something?). Especially after I bought/installed the cap (since destroyed), I could even idle, with my fan on high, defogger on, and sound system turned all the way up, and my voltage wouldn't nudge much below maybe 13.5V. Compared to the POS alternator I have now, which when only the fan on high and defogger on, will run the voltage right down to 12V.

I will eventually be upgrading my wiring as well, but for as little amperage as the alternator makes, and the short path from alternator to battrey, I doubt if I'm losing much with just an 8-guage. I'll probably end up replacing it with some 4-guage, or maybe just say "F-it" and get some 1/0, sometime in the next few weeks. For my electrical system, and in order of importance, I need a higher output alternator; a 2nd battery in the back, or at least a 3F capacitor; and then I'll upgrade the wiring, although maybe the wiring may come first just due to relative expense.

I will check out that San Jose place when I get a chance, should be in a few minutes whilst I let my Chinese food cool off before I burn my tongue again....

 

[5-90]

I'd do the wiring first, just because you've got high draw on your electrics - and wiring is usually the first bottleneck you'll find. Also, upgrading the source don't do much if you don't upgrade the wiring - even if you can souce that power, how's it going to get where you want it?

1/0 is probably going to be overkill - I selected 1 gage for my cables because it's an excellent middle ground between pure overkill and shipping/material costs. I think it's good for about 400A - which you'll not see, even if you're using your battery to weld.

Solder joins under the hood receive mixed reviews - I'm going to assume that's what your "fusion lugs" are? Mine are all crimped, double-sealed, and packed with Ox-Gard - and I make them the same way for everyone else as I did for me.

Also, if you're going to do the second battery thing, I've had better luck using 100-200 solenoids rated for 100% duty cycle than I have with solid state isolators - plus, they're a pantload cheaper. Something to think about - try industrial/heavy truck places first, then Allied Electronics (www.alliedelec.com) Make sure they're "full duty" or 100% duty cycle before you buy them, and you'll be all right.

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