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Help !! she died

So correct me if I am wrong.
at this point im left with.
Weak distributor spark.
IACV.
CPS.

anything else I should be looking at ?
 
the fuel shot out of the engine and over halfway into the spot next to me. pretty sure its getting enough pressure if it went that far wouldn't you think ?...
I do not have my fuel pressure gauge with me at work today, could not find it in storage this morning. Ill try to fish it out and confirm tho
Engine will start just really rough so pretty sure I have spark. All plugs look good and distributor is turning (I have a hole cut in it)

I will have someone crank the engine with the spark plug removed to see if I get spark on my next break and get back with results.
Should I be looking for anything in particular ?


It sounds like timing is way off when I do get her to start. if I were to describe it.


So my plan for tomorrow is to get a new CPS from O'rilley and try swapping it Worst case scenario ill return it.
 
If it is spraying fuel that is a good sign you have fuel pressure, but that does not mean the injectors are doing their job. I had a situation with my GTA where one injector would short out internally and draw down the entire bank. It was intermittent and an absolute PITA to finally identify the guilty culprit.

That said, I would still work on ruling out the CPS first.

Ignition (coil, distributor) would be next on my agenda.
 
Just a thought but hear me out. Is it possible the fuel rail is clogged at the quick connect fitting? Maybe you could pull the rail and leave the injectors and fuel line connected and turn it over to see if it's sending fuel out to the cylinder.


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Ill get a pressure test on it tomorrow if cps change doesn't fix.
its a stroker with the larger injectors. 5.7 mustang if I remember*
so its not like they are old.
I replaced the fuel filter 6months ago and have ran about 10 of those fuel injector cleaners through it over the last 6months as well.
so im pretty confident its not fuel related.
but the pressure test will confirm.
 
Cps was not in stock so they had to order it.
Confirmed 39psi at rail.
Compression is good
Towing it home tonight. I'll get back with more info later
 
CPS changed. still wont start.
maybe sounds a little more wanting to idle.
when she starts shes idling at like 100rpm
then dies
hitting gas produces a mass of stumbling that always ends in stalling
ideas
 
Would not start before without gas. with new cps. now will sometimes start to 100rpms without hitting gas. but its pretty quick to stall/die
 
So went and messed with it.
I think its spark related...
Hear me out.

im hearing intermittent backfires when I am starting it. and they are coming from the frontpipe. not the engine. (gas thats not being ignited)

Im going to double check the grounds on the distributor.

How Do I test for weak spark ?
also im going to pull the cap and check the rotor as well.
 
Check for weak spark the same as any spark, use a screwdriver in the boot and let the spark jump to ground. Color should be blue/white. If its yellow its weak. Another thing is something like this, http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/lisle-inlline-spark-tester-20610/22984543-P, you can use that between coil and dist to see if you're getting constant spark, but its hard to tell strength. Have you checked the cap and rotor? (number the posts on the rotor before you pull it). Coil is usually the weakest link in the ignition chain

Still sounds like fuel pressure to me but coil can have similar results. Could also be related to air, if the IAC is stuck, it will have similar symptoms. Could also be MAP. Coolant temp sensor and air temp sensors will also make the computer run the mix super-rich and make it run like crap.
 
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I double checked the spark.
I have nothing now.
not even a little blip.
kinda frustrated now.
thinking this must be coil distributor or cps.

maybe the cps I got was defective ?
what should my process be at this point. I have never dealt with an ignition issue. always been fuel problems in the past.

Checked all connectors and grounds this time. Nothing is loose or unplugged.
 
Use a stethoscope or rod to listen to the injectors. If you hear clacking then computer is getting signal data and generating output, so lack of spark is on the ignition chain. No clacking means no signal being generated, so cps is likely
 
Did you get this figured out yet?

I had the same issue once and replaced the coil and boom fixed. I had what looked like good spark but apparently it was weak for not getting to all the plugs.

I had the crankshaft sensor go bad as well but that one was a totally different issue it died and would not restart for a bit then started and ran fine then dies.

since you say you had to mash the gas that reminded me of mine. Remember these are ODB1 engines till 95 and they think on a very basic level and if it is low fuel pressure you will get it to kinda fire but not go, remember your starter only cranks the engine at 250 rpm's and once it tries to fire it will not have enough gas to go any further. If you have a hit or miss spark from timing or lack of a good spark it may fire but barely run then die.

Check your rotor and and ensure it is good and not cracked as well as the button, check the timing and then go for the coil.

if the crankshaft sensor if bad you will have no fuel or spark.

You can also check the voltage going to the coil and see if there is a constant 12 volts, but that is not likely and issue. Also don't forget about the cut off relay but I have yet to have one fail on me.
 
Cps was not in stock so they had to order it.
Confirmed 39psi at rail.
Compression is good
Towing it home tonight. I'll get back with more info later

Check it at idle and check the FPR vacuum hose nipple connection for a fuel leak from the FPR guts. FPR = Fuel Pressure Regulator

With the vac line of it should 39 psi and no fuel leak. If it leaks it is your problem. With the vac line connected it should be 29-39 psi during accel-decel and on the low end at idle IIRC.

The back fire and stumble dying when you press the gas is most likely vacuum leak on the Throttle body to MAP sensor rubber Vac line.

It could also be a bad TPS sensor, bad wiring, or a Bad O2 sensor/wiring/heater relay to the O2 sensor. Just disconnect the O2 sensor to see if the problem goes away. If not, it is likely not the O2 sensor or its wiring (unless the wiring melted on the exhaust or was damaged by the front driveshaft and is shorting and giving bad data to the ECU.

Check the grounds to the TPS, and MAP sensor to be sure they are under 1 ohm from the sensor to the battery (-) post. If not they can add Chaos to the ECU operation...

No spark is usually the CPS, but if no spark, use a NOID light to see if the injectors are firing. If the NOID light flashes, it is not the CPS, and will likely be a bad ICM, Coil, or connections from the ICM to Coil or harness to the ICM.

Not sure on a 92 if the Dizzy pick up coil can cause a no spark, on the 87-90 Renix it is can not stop the spark.
 
Pretty sure its the coil.

Ive been tinkering with it all morning.
noid light shows injectors going. so by what im reading this rules out the cps.
the coil could have been producing intermittent spark. but now i have nothing
Car wont start at all anymore. just cranks and cranks.

So. getting coil next and we will see what happens.
 
One more thing I think I should say.
Last week she wouldn't start either.
Had to hold the gas.

When this happened. I was throwing code for idle air control valve.

I popped the hood to find the vacuum line from intake man to the main computer on the firewall was broken in half. I repaired it with a tight fitting bit of fuel line . connecting both broken pieces of plastic. (hose is so tight its not leaking air) this fixed this issue.
I feel like it is odd it threw a iacv code at that time and maybe is related. but no codes at the moment.

The ECU mistook the MAP sensor (it is a Manifold Absolute Pressure senosor, not a computer) vacuum line break for a stuck wide open IAC valve. From what I have read so far, I suspect that vacuum line is still leaking, probably right at the throttle body, unless the FPR is leaking fuel in the intake bypassing the fuel injectors (also very likely).
 
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