MJR
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Costa Mesa, CA
redrockphil said:
The engine controller turn them on based on the sensor in the t-stat housing (91-01). It normally comes on inbetween the 210 and next mark on the gauge.
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heating probs!!!
- Thread starter redrockphil
- Start date
The engine controller turn them on based on the sensor in the t-stat housing (91-01). It normally comes on inbetween the 210 and next mark on the gauge.
This is not the answer to your problem, but it may help anyways since most xj's run fairly hot while doing heavy 4-wheelin. You might also try a Flow Kooler water pump. About $140.00 but doubles flow rate at idle and adds 22% more water pressure inside block keeping engine temps up to 30 deg cooler from idle to 3300 rpm. I also added an aftermarket adjustable thermostat to my secondary fan. I also plan to put a manual switch in so I can run it when I want without turning on the a/c. Some models turn the fan on in the "vent" mode also
redrockphil
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- slc utah
I would really liketo know how to rig a toggle whitch to the aux fan. As soon as the fan turns on it starts to cool off, but not much.
- Location
- Maurertown,Va.
Turbo City makes a kit you can use.Part # 640-115, price around $55.It includes a relay ,a new temp switch and wireing.
I used a brass T-fitting and screwed it and the stock temp sensor in.I also spliced a switch in the wire so I have manual control.
Any time the temp reaches around 215* the aux fan will come on.It has not interfered wth the normal operation of the AC system and worked well when on the trail at Camp Jeep.
I do plan to pull the 3 core GDI rad and replace it with a 2 core Modine rad.
Wayne
I used a brass T-fitting and screwed it and the stock temp sensor in.I also spliced a switch in the wire so I have manual control.
Any time the temp reaches around 215* the aux fan will come on.It has not interfered wth the normal operation of the AC system and worked well when on the trail at Camp Jeep.
I do plan to pull the 3 core GDI rad and replace it with a 2 core Modine rad.
Wayne
- Location
- Terra Firma
Before you start wasting money on Flow Kooler supposedly high-flow pumps and Turbo City supposedly high-flow thermostat housings -- check your lower radiator hose. The behavior you describe suggests that the internal spring is missing, weak, or too short, allowing the hose to collapse under suction and cut off the flow of water through the radiator and water pump.
This happened to a friend of mine and it drove us nuts for weeks. His ran fine around town, but up on the highway after 15 to 30 minutes it would cook. He'd pull off, let it cool down, then he was good for another 15 to 30 minutes before it cooked again and he'd repeat the process. Turned out he had an after-market lower hose and the spring was much shorter than the OEM design.
This happened to a friend of mine and it drove us nuts for weeks. His ran fine around town, but up on the highway after 15 to 30 minutes it would cook. He'd pull off, let it cool down, then he was good for another 15 to 30 minutes before it cooked again and he'd repeat the process. Turned out he had an after-market lower hose and the spring was much shorter than the OEM design.
SomeoneKnows
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Missouri Ozarks Region
My neighbor recently had an overheating problem with their 95 4.0L Cherokee. A few months ago they noticed a leak and assumed the radiator failed so they had it replaced with a new one. A couple of weeks ago the overheating returned and they decided to change the water pump. The water pump was bad but the overheating continued. They took the Jeep back to the shop that changed the radiator. Turns out the water pump had started to scrape metal shavings into the cooling system and clogged up their new radiator requiring another one to be re-installed. Last I heard they weren't having any more overheating problems.
redrockphil
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- slc utah
Metal shavings?. Hmm.. After I read this post I checked my fluids. Turns out there arent shavings, but little particles of metal (I assume metal) floating in the coolant. I think its probably some kind of stop-leak from the prior owner. Could this have caused a severe clog? I flushed the rad twice now, the second time with some kind of acid based pre-flush. I still have yet to get it flow tested. Kind of low on funds now.
- Location
- Terra Firma
redrockphil said:
The problem with those flush compunds is that they go in the coolant and flow in the normal direction. If your system is clogged with physical debris, rather than just a general build-up of scale, a chemical flush won't dislodge it. A radiator shop will reverse flush it to try to knock that stuff loose. If that doesn't work, they remove the tanks and "rod" each core to open it up. Sort of the automotive equivalent of those heart operations where they shove a baloon into your main artery and blow it up to roto-root out the plaque.
MJR
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Costa Mesa, CA
Shortly after I bought my XJ (used with 141,000 miles on it) I had to replace the radiator for leaks. I also flushed and flushed the cooling system (a fair amount of rust buildup) It was in for about 6 months and I had driven it to Las Vegas. On the way out it was fine then coming back it was running hot (warmer outside also). I pulled the radiator out and replaced it again because it was partially blocked at the bottom. Then in about 6 months I pulled it out and back flushed it with a hose. I was surprised at what came out. They looked like rocks but were made of rust. I put it back together and later on decided to have it recored with a Craig 3 row core and have a filler neck added to convert to open cooling. While I was there a guy suggested a coolant filter called Gano. I tracked down a local dealer and went to buy one. The one they suggested looked to small for my likes so I got the next bigger one and it took a lot of cramming to get it in. It works good. I cleaned it once at 6 months and it's now about 6 months later. I have attached some pictures from mine and another XJ that had major rust. It is very important to maintain the cooling system but even so I am convinced that the cast iron head and block will still break off small pieces over time. This filter will save me having to replaceor rod out the radiator frequently.
This is what came out of my radiator after pulling it out and back flushing it with a hose.
This is what the tubes looked like in the old core. You can see what looks like rocks in them
This is the coolant filter I installed.
This is what I had trapped in the filter at 6 months.
This is what is trapped in it right now another 6 months later
This is the core from a not properly maintained 96 XJ.
This is the heater valve from the same 96 XJ. What looks like clay is rust.
This is what came out of my radiator after pulling it out and back flushing it with a hose.
This is what the tubes looked like in the old core. You can see what looks like rocks in them
This is the coolant filter I installed.
This is what I had trapped in the filter at 6 months.
This is what is trapped in it right now another 6 months later
This is the core from a not properly maintained 96 XJ.
This is the heater valve from the same 96 XJ. What looks like clay is rust.
redrockphil
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- slc utah
Wow. Well, I got frustrated enough to get a new radiator. I intalled it 2 days ago. Everything's fine now. Thank god. I like that filter though, I'll probably get one. Thanks everyone for all the help.