I would actually go with a harness from Susquehenna Motorsports
http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=1247
more money but higher quality - they don't make one purpose made for an XJ but I have one waiting to go in, I'm going to modify it a little for my purposes however, because I believe in massive overkill I'm going to replace the single fuse which I don't like with a fuse block (four fuses for headlights, more space for future fog/driving/offroad lights if I choose to go that route) and then run individual relays for each filament in a Hella four-relay enclosure that I'm actually still waiting to show up.
As for the Autopals, they should be fine - any E-code housing with good H4 bulbs will be VASTLY superior to anything "legal." Cibie and Hella also make good e-codes; as far as I'm aware Cibies are considered the best with Hella and Autopal still pretty darn good. I'd stay away from the "crystal clear" lens reflector/lens assemblies; get the traditional ones, they work best. The sealed beams that are in my Cherokee now are awful, I can't wait to get rid of them - the beam pattern is horrible, and I swear half the light is going straight through the silvering on the reflector, they light up my engine compartment almost as well as the road. Only reason I haven't done so is that I'm still working on mechanical stuff - I already have the bulbs and harness, and I could easily run it as is while I'm waiting for my massive overkill relays and fusebox to arrive. I personally wouldn't run HIDs in an E-code housing; if you want to go that route I would use a housing specifically made for HIDs, as the light sources are a different shape so you're compromising that awesome E-code beam pattern by not using the bulb for which the optics were designed.
I used to have Cibie H4s and a heavy-gauge relay harness on a Porsche 944, that combined with a Transpo adjustable voltage regulator to kick the voltage up a little (for some reason German alternators seem to run right about 13.7V whereas there's absolutely no problem kicking it up to about 14.1 or so) and with that and just plain vanilla Sylvania 55/60W bulbs it was astonishing. Suddenly I could drive on an unlit road with complete confidence, something I could never do before the mods. I had a set of 90/100W bulbs that came with the "headlight upgrade kit" that I bought and never installed - they just weren't needed for the type of driving I did. I think the bulbs that I have for my new lights are 70/80W or something like that so these should be spectacular - and I probably still have the 90/100s somewhere. But never run anything over 55/60s with stock wiring - you'll have a crispy headlight switch and/or pop the circuit breaker. The relay harness is advisable anyway; the voltage drop through the stock wiring and switch on most cars makes a real difference in the brightness of your lights. Take power right off the battery or the big stud on the PDC or alternator; you'll be glad you did.