Headlight Upgrade Wiring Harness needed??

[ert01]

The BigOffRoad kit seems a bit lacking to me. The wire looks to be a 12 or 14 gauge and they used cheap disconnect for the power... It's not a sealed connector and seems prone to corrosion to me. I think they use those on R/C cars...

They also don't have any fuses? Just power right to the relay's (which I guess isn't terrible, but it's definitely not ideal in my opinion).

I dunno... it just doesn't seem like a great kit to me. Sure it's plug n play but I think you could do a lot better.

 

[winterbeater]

Could someone with the Big Offroad harness comment on the wire gauge? I asked, but they won't share any specifics. I'd be mad as hell if I paid them $70 for 14ga wire.

Forget them! You don't need a supplier who won't tell you the wire specs.:moon:

 

[winterbeater]

THis guy liked the Big Offroad! http://www.opiebennett.com/tech/headlight/index.htm but he doesn't say what the gage is either (BIG - NUMERICALLY SMALL?????)

 

[jeepnatv4life]

What is the battery cable upgrade that you all are talking about???? link??

 

[Redsnake]

What is the battery cable upgrade that you all are talking about???? link??

Check out 5-90's website. He's a great guy to deal with and was very helpfull to me.

http://www.geocities.com/JeepI6Power/electric.html

 

[bline]

I just ordered an H4 upgrade, consisting of Hella housings, 80/100W bulbs, and a harness from Competition Limited. (formerly Gene Henderson's company, for any old time rally people)
http://www.compltd.com/

I installed this over the holiday break.

Here's a little more information on the kit: It has 30 amp fusible links connecting to the battery on each branch of the circuit (one for high beam, one for low). It uses 12ga wire capable of continuous draw of up to 20amps on each leg, two 30 amp relays, again one high, one low. The sockets for the H4 bulbs are made with heavy duty contacts and 12ga wire, and are made from high temp FRP. The trigger side of the harness that connects to the OEM vehicle wiring is lighter gauge wire, 16ga, because it now only carries enough current to trip the relays (less than 1 amp each).

I forgot to mention in my original post that Tom Bell is the owner now. His phone number is 231-943-0810.

 

[RichP]

What is the difference between the WR 3012A and WR 6119J models they list ?

 

[bline]

What is the difference between the WR 3012A and WR 6119J models they list ?

The harnesses with the "J" are for Japanese vehicles.

 

[TiRod]

I made my kit from GoJeeps instructions using 10 ga wire. I shrink tubed every crimped connection and didn't use relay plugs - which does allow you to trouble shoot things a little better if you have wig wagged your L+R hi's and lows alternately. Oops.

I don't recommend Calterm hi amp H4 sockets - mine are starting to show burn marks after 6 months, and the terminals are not 10 ga compliant. Just too small. Hella 80/100's pull some current, and you need all the capacity you can get. Make sure the relay plugs you use can handle 10 ga, too, if you do. Everything needs to be gauge compatible.

Having just replaced the the grille header, I've found it incredibly easy - only four studs hold the whole thing on after the headlight trim is removed. Once loose, you can really move wiring around and make it a lot easier to install. Stuffing long leads into the cramped space needs all the room you can manage.

Right now I'm running some 55W that came with the header until I get another E-code. I definitely dislike them - it's a huge step back down, a lot like a having bicycle lights duct taped to the fenders. I'm definitely spoiled now.

 

[joe_peters]

I was going to suggest the Painless Performance #30815 until I saw Summit is asking $130 for it.

 

[TiRod]

I have to say that buying stuff from the parts house probably ran me $50. Susquehanna ceramic H4 sockets are about $7, but if they take 10 ga, they might be the best app.

It seems to get really good wire prices on a bulk buy, the harness would still need to be assembled by $2.00 an hour labor. Don't see any way around finding a cheap harness other than surplus or overstock.

 

[Redsnake]

OK... I ordered the eAutoworks harness. I know it's not the beefiest kit, but I think will more than suffice for what I want. Total cost so far was $27.50 shipped... I'll post a follow-up w/my impressions upon installation.

 

[SuzysJ]

I've relay-driven three vehicles headlamp systems using a supplier who has impressed me over the years: DANIEL STERN LIGHTING

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/

I use ANCOR "Marine Grade" 12-3 cable plus HELLA relays and all other ANCOR parts (especially the heat-shrink, adhesive-filled terminations. Never a problem.

I construct the whole as a harness (similar to the oem way) so that it installs/removes as one piece. I cover the whole with split loom and support it with ADEL clamps and keep it secured in itself with zip-ties. Harness is supported every 6" or so.

With E-code CIBIE housings (and 55/100W lamps) properly adjusted up::down and left::right (see Susquehanna Motorsports among others) it only takes a moment, if necessary, to move the pattern to accomodate a heavy load.

This is a satisfying DIY job, and, though expensive compared to kits, is far more reliable in the long run.

I would also recommend "The Big Three" electrical system upgrade:


http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/312025/page/1/fpart/1

I had custom 2/0 battery cables built by JEEPERSANDCREEPERS (again, the third vehicle to use an excellent supplier)

http://www.jeepersandcreepers.com/8801.html

in Ga 2/0 (with mil-spec terminations) to cover all aspects of this upgrade, and used ANCOR and other USCG-approved fuses/holders.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/47515/377%20710/0/fuse/Primary%20Search/mode%20matchallpartial/0/0?N=377%20710&Ne=0&Ntt=fuse&Ntk=Primary%20Search&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&Nao=0&Ns=0&keyword=fuse&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=5002&subdeptNum=9&classNum=119

With a blue or yellow top OPTIMA this has proven bulletproof on two XJ's.

My take on owning XJ's the past 23 years is to build-in reliability for two systems: electrical and cooling. The I6-242 and AW-4 are bulletproof, so it is minor to do the work to improve on the factory.

Sort of like OLD MAN EMU . . why do it twice?