Runnin'OnEmpty
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Southeast USA
A magnet works well. One of those magnetic
pick-up tools is good for this.
pick-up tools is good for this.
-
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Head Replacement - Replace Lifters? (0331 Problems)
- Thread starter markjrs3
- Start date
Talyn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Radford, Communistwealth of Virginia
x2 get the larger one.
joe_peters
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Grants Pass, OryGun
Skip the magnets.
Get yourself a pair of long-nose snap ring pliers--you reach down, squeeze the handles, pull the lifter out.
Get yourself a pair of long-nose snap ring pliers--you reach down, squeeze the handles, pull the lifter out.
markjrs3
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Rhode Island
Nice, I'm heading to Harbor Frieght tomorrow, I may pick up both. Magnet certainly won't hurt having around. I've got the rockers and pushrods out and organized. Water pump out (the reason it overheated in the first place).
Got few pictures taken, you can really see the sludge built up around the crack. It's pretty cool actually. (Aside from the obvious sucky cast). Also, someone wanna take a look at the valve cover bolts and the order they are in? That's exactly as I took them out, and I'm fairly certain that's not how they are supposed to be. Not sure if it matter, with the OEM washer deals being the important part.
Sludge on crack:
Valve cover bolts:
Talyn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Radford, Communistwealth of Virginia
Magnet is by far easier than trying to reach down in a bore and pull the lifter out.
Your pics aren't showing up.
markjrs3
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Rhode Island
Of course they aren't...stupid Google Drive.
Tony_SS
NAXJA Supporting Vendor
- Location
- Washington MO
Large magnet worked for me.
markjrs3
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Rhode Island
Picked up a 15lb magnet at Harbor Freight last night, along with a set of super long and thin pliers. I'm hoping to have enough time to remove the head and pull the lifters tonight. Maybe even unwrap and marvel at the new head.
Gotta be honest, I'm doing most of this flying by the seat of my pants. I have a friend more experience than myself who will be helping with the re-install. So far though its been just me, and gone smoothly, thankfully.
markjrs3
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Rhode Island
15lb magnet worked like a charm. The last one was kind of a pain in the ass because I couldn't see my target, but i finally managed to snag it. Checked all the pushrods on a plate of glass, no wobble. Just need to clean the deck now, then I can start dropping things back in. Any suggestions on the best way to clean the deck surface?
markjrs3
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Rhode Island
Also, can anyone think of ANY last things I should be buying/replacing/whatever before this starts getting put back together? I have everything needed for the basic head swap, plus a new water pump, and spark plugs.
Tony_SS
NAXJA Supporting Vendor
- Location
- Washington MO
Wd40 to clean the deck.
You are pretty deep in. The only thing I can think of is to change out the timing chain but the Jeep timing chains tend to hold up pretty well and you would still have a bit of work involved to get at it (timing chain cover, pulling the harmonic balancer) so I would definitely treat this as optional.
markjrs3
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Rhode Island
Yeah as much ask I'd like to do that, that requires digging a little deeper. I guess I'm pretty set, except for the prep work.
Well, while you have everything opened up, you have a great opportunity to flush out the water jacket. I would make sure to have the head installed first to ensure you don't get any water in the cylinders but it might be a good idea to take this opportunity to blast some water through the open water pump ports to try to flush out any accumulated rust, gunk and other crap. It won't make your Jeep run any better but it will give you a good base to put everything back together and may help cooling.
markjrs3
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Rhode Island
THAT is definitely something I'd like to do. I was planning on a coolant flush once it was all back together, but if I could clean the crap out of the water jacket I'd feel much better. Any DIY thread out there on that?
When I had mine apart I just stuck the end of a garden hose into one side and cranked it open. I was amazed by how much crud came out. I stopped after the water appeared to clear (a couple of minutes).
markjrs3
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Rhode Island
Know that I'm asking both because I have limited knowledge but also because the idea of water hose + engine doesn't compute easily...but where did you spray in, and where did it come out?
I just stuck it in the big hole where the water pump used to be. If you look closely you will see that the #1 cylinder sits a little off center in that hole so you can spray the water on an angle past that cylinder and it will create a flow that will wrap around the cylinders and come back out the same hole. I found that it worked best when I sprayed the water towards the passenger side so that it travelled to the back turned around at #6 and back out the same hole it went into.
HTH
Todd
HTH
Todd
markjrs3
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Rhode Island
Nice, I wasn't sure if there was another entrance I wasn't aware of. This makes sense. As you said, I'll wait for the head to go back on (and probably valve cover) but I'm going to give this a shot, there seemed to be a decent amount of crap in there. Possibly old silicone sealant?
markjrs3
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Rhode Island
New question for anyone that might want to give their .02
I've dug through several old threads and can't seem to get a consensus...for the various gaskets I'm replacing, what sealant if any should be used? I bought the Crown Auto full upper engine gasket kit. Not sure if this was a mistake or not, but it seemed like a good deal from a company that makes a lot of OEM type parts.
1) Head gasket, obviously most important. I can tell that certain companies, like Felpro, are dry application, and according to a few threads I found, most modern HG are dry as well. However I can't find specific info on mine, and the Haynes manual says to use a gasket sealant like "Perfect Seal"
2) Valve cover gasket. This is the rubber coated variety, and I'd assume this is a dry install. Any other opinions?
3) Water Pump. Came with a gasket, also bought a separate one, mostly because I didn't know it would come with one. Paper variety, I suppose? Sealant, adhesive, RTV?
4) Thermostat, throttle body. These came in the same separate pack with a tube of RTV. They both are paper. Use the RTV? Get a better sealant/adhesive, etc?
5) Exhaust/Intake manifold. Anything on this bad boy?
I've dug through several old threads and can't seem to get a consensus...for the various gaskets I'm replacing, what sealant if any should be used? I bought the Crown Auto full upper engine gasket kit. Not sure if this was a mistake or not, but it seemed like a good deal from a company that makes a lot of OEM type parts.
1) Head gasket, obviously most important. I can tell that certain companies, like Felpro, are dry application, and according to a few threads I found, most modern HG are dry as well. However I can't find specific info on mine, and the Haynes manual says to use a gasket sealant like "Perfect Seal"
2) Valve cover gasket. This is the rubber coated variety, and I'd assume this is a dry install. Any other opinions?
3) Water Pump. Came with a gasket, also bought a separate one, mostly because I didn't know it would come with one. Paper variety, I suppose? Sealant, adhesive, RTV?
4) Thermostat, throttle body. These came in the same separate pack with a tube of RTV. They both are paper. Use the RTV? Get a better sealant/adhesive, etc?
5) Exhaust/Intake manifold. Anything on this bad boy?
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