Make sure the head screws don't have paint dabs on them - if they do, get new ones. If they don't, paint them when you're done.
Use PTFE/Teflon pipe dope or RTV sealant on the #11 - driver's side front - screw threads.
Replace the thermostat housing screws, as they tend to be corroded. Use CRES, brass, or bronze - if you have to get carbon steel (SAE grades,) coat the threads and shank with RTV on installation.
Get replacement screws for the manifolds - I like silicon bronze for these, but you have to find a specialty shop for them (like Fastenal.) If you can only get carbon steel, get SAE5 screws - they lose less strength due to the heat-cycling. Use LocTite #272
or nothing on these screws! You'll als find it helpful to have a 9/16" "flex" socket (inbuilt universal joint on shorty socket) to reach the lower rear screws. New studs can be cut from 3/8"-16 threaded rod, but you'll want to get 3/8"-16 nuts to go with them (OEM are 3/8"-24, but the head end of the stud is 3/8"-16)
Use RTV copper (a thin, even layer) on
both sides of the manifold gasket. This will not only help to hold the thing in place while you're torquing, but help to prevent burn-through if a screw works loose (check screw torque annually.)
USE NO SEALER on the head gasket! Period.
Scotch-Brite wheels work wonders for stripping old gasket residue, use them. Flush with carburettor cleaner after you're done. This will also strip carbon deposits from the tops of the pistons (use medium for that, fine for gsaket crud.)
Concur with servicing the manifolds on the bench - it is
much easier that way! If you're fairly large (like meself) you can R&I the head as an assembly using muscle power - or else you'll want to get a crane hoist. The head casting is good for 60-70#, and add the goodies (usually, I'll drop the head, manifolds, and fuel rail in as an assembly. Somewhere under 100#, I'm sure - but the reach makes it difficult.)
Have the head checked at a machine shop. You shouldn't have a crack - and a good machine shop will have a straightedge to check the head with. Spec is .003"/6" longwise max warpage, .001"/1" max warpage crosswise. Check between the straightedge and the head deck in various locations.
While you're there, check the manifold surfaces - I think that spec is .003"/6" there as well. Check both sides.
You yourself can check the head and manifolds if you're on good relations with your machinist - I had a good enough working relationship with mine that I could take the parts in, borrow his straightedge, and drop off a six or two in return. Fifteen minutes and I'm out and done, and it didn't disturb his day at all (too bad he went back into engineering and got out of machining.) If you plan on overhauling engines more than infrequently, you can buy a ground straightedge from various MRO sources or engine supply houses - Goodson (
www.goodson.com) or MSC Direct (
www.mscdirect.com) come readily to mind.
Coolant should be drained before you start. Accessory fluids need not be drained - those parts can be tied aside with wire. Change the oil
after you've buttoned it all up - you're going to knock crud loose, and most of that will drain out with the old oil. If you have a dry sump and knock it all loose, you'll want to change the filter after you've run the engine for a couple of hours.
Don't think I've missed anything...