yeah but it'd be pretty crappy to find one of those the hard way, ie through the tire or worse, oil pan etc..... to take them out, use a log and a rope along with a gooseneck to lever them over the log and out, i do this to take out fence posts, so rebar should be no sweat. beats diggin.
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has anyone made a pull pal?
- Thread starter outlander
- Start date
Ramsey
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Shreveport, LA
Thats actually a really good idea despite the naysayers. I wish I would have thought of that all those times I got stuck mudding alone. I fixed that now though, just stay out of the mudbeakie said:grab yourself a good chain, maybe 10 feet long at most, heavy duty too, by that I mean wide links.
get some rebar, 4 feet long maybe 4-8 of them depending on how soft the ground is. weld a nut flush with the tops, nuts wider than the link of the chains, weld another nut about a foot from the top, again wider than the chain.
have a sledge hammer with you
pound the rebar into the ground through
the chain links at angles towards where your pulling from. once the rebar is into the ground connect your winch to the chain end and you have yourself a tow point where ever you want it.
the top nut it to keep the rebar from flattining out too much, the lower one is so you have some bar sticking up from the ground, something to grab onto when you want to pull them out... if need be with your now unstuck vehicle doing the pulling as they sometimes get stuck rather well.
forgot the lower nuts on the pic... sorry
I can't for the life of me remember where I found these, but I downloaded these about two years ago. I was looking into making my own, too, but I generally use the chain-and-spikes method. It actually does work if you have chain long enough to reach semi-hard ground. The top picture is of an actual Pull-Pal. The others are of a homemade ground anchor someone made.
That's what I use. I don't use rebar, though. I have several long (2.5-3 ft.) spikes that I have placed about a foot or 1.5' apart in the chain. If you're stuck in really gooey stuff, you're better off using a CB to flag someone down, though. Using a Hi Lift to winch more than four or five feet in the really goopy stuff sucks big time.jefb said:
outlander
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Columbus,Ohio
AJsArmor said:
You should make some and give us a good deal on em'....
I guess I was not quite clear, my fault.Timber said:
Some were saying that you could just leave the rebar. I was just making the comment that they could use the Hi-Lift jack to extract the rebar.
But yes, if you are so bad off. Use a CB and call for help.
Dan Fredrickson
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sacramento, CA
We used to use something on the river when I worked in the Grand Canyon as a river guide. I have used one for years with a winch but we don't get into alot of mud around here.....
Anyway, its really simple and I have seen 8000lb 33' rafts hanging from them if the boatman wasn't careful where he parked the boat the night before. Its a sand stake.
I'm sorry I don't have a pic but its real simple to imagine. It is a 20" piece of 2x2 Aluminum angle iron(sic).....we would weld a 3/4" ring of 1/4' wall 6061 to it in the vee....you drive it straight into the ground, NOT at an angle, if put in at an angle it would tear out a big hunk of ground, straight in and you couldn't pull it out unless directly above it. It dosen't need the tube piece, they were just a place to quickly hook in a carabiner. Just draw a couple of loops around it and pull away.
And it is small and light, but again, I haven't tested it in mud, but it is great in sand.
Dan Fredrickson
www.ruffstuffspecialties.com
Anyway, its really simple and I have seen 8000lb 33' rafts hanging from them if the boatman wasn't careful where he parked the boat the night before. Its a sand stake.
I'm sorry I don't have a pic but its real simple to imagine. It is a 20" piece of 2x2 Aluminum angle iron(sic).....we would weld a 3/4" ring of 1/4' wall 6061 to it in the vee....you drive it straight into the ground, NOT at an angle, if put in at an angle it would tear out a big hunk of ground, straight in and you couldn't pull it out unless directly above it. It dosen't need the tube piece, they were just a place to quickly hook in a carabiner. Just draw a couple of loops around it and pull away.
And it is small and light, but again, I haven't tested it in mud, but it is great in sand.
Dan Fredrickson
www.ruffstuffspecialties.com
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outlander
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Columbus,Ohio
AJsArmor said:
yep,I have a 9000k winch.
Cool, shoot me your address when you have a chance and when it's done you can be my "test pilot". That is after you sign a billion miles of paperwork stating I'm not liable for anything and everything in triplicate, DNA testing, background check...ok maybe not all that.outlander said:
anodyne33
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Western Pa.
Kurt04 said:
Holy cow that's great! Your link only points to the 4th chapter though, is the rest of that available online? As it is, I've got me some great new reading for when I'm... uh... in "the office".
JAS
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Ann Arbor, MI
anodyne33 said:Holy cow that's great! Your link only points to the 4th chapter though, is the rest of that available online? As it is, I've got me some great new reading for when I'm... uh... in "the office".
I have figured it out
http://www.webstile.ch/knoten/rigging/CH1.PDF
http://www.webstile.ch/knoten/rigging/CH2.PDF
http://www.webstile.ch/knoten/rigging/CH3.PDF
http://www.webstile.ch/knoten/rigging/CH4.PDF
http://www.webstile.ch/knoten/rigging/CH5.PDF
http://www.webstile.ch/knoten/rigging/CH6.PDF
Chapters 7-10 do not apear to be posted.
Tugboat369
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Wilmington DE
I keep a Danford style anchor in the back of my XJ. :wierd:
It has been used a few times with very good results. :wave1:
I cut off the two bars that are attached to the flukes as thy are there to make sure that the anchor will lay flat on the bottom when lowered. Not needed when you are placing it on the ground.
Also added a five foot piece of cable to the bottom of the anchor. This is used to recover the anchor. Because the anchor will bury itself when you pull yourself out. The softer the ground the deeper the anchor will go.
So after you are free you use the cable to pull the anchor out of the ground the same way it went in.
Also you can buy a anchor mounting bracket from a marine store that will keep the anchor in place when stored.
It has been used a few times with very good results. :wave1:
I cut off the two bars that are attached to the flukes as thy are there to make sure that the anchor will lay flat on the bottom when lowered. Not needed when you are placing it on the ground.
Also added a five foot piece of cable to the bottom of the anchor. This is used to recover the anchor. Because the anchor will bury itself when you pull yourself out. The softer the ground the deeper the anchor will go.
So after you are free you use the cable to pull the anchor out of the ground the same way it went in.
Also you can buy a anchor mounting bracket from a marine store that will keep the anchor in place when stored.
outlander
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Columbus,Ohio
AJsArmor said:
pm sent.....
olivedrabcj7
NAXJA Member #1384
- Location
- Hot Springs, Arkansas
how far are you from trees? can you come up with a couple hundred feet of chain,steel wire, cable, anything to extend on out to the nearest tree? that would be the easiest thing. see if you can find a tow truck guy to let you borrow or rent his winch cable extension.
outlander
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Columbus,Ohio
I'm unstuck now....but my wheelin' needs require a land anchor because I do alot of hunting in vast fields where a tree is rare.