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Gasket Tips

SFW516

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Anaheim, CA
I am going change the valve cover gasket on my 90 XJ V6. It leaks oil like probably most any XJ but I think the main culprit is this gasket since I can see oil oozing out. The previous person didn't use a gasket but used that RTV stuff, could be the problem.

So having never done this before I was wondering if there is anything I should check while I got it apart and if there are any tricks to getting this right the first time.
 
Would recommend you purchase the rubber grommet kit for the Crankcase ventilation system; which are on top of the valve cover. They are prone to getting hard and causing leaks...
As for the valve cover gasket... clean the surface of the valve cover and head and install a quality neoprene gasket such as Felpro....
 
I bought my valve cover gasket from the dealer. I also recommend the rubber grommet kit too, I think both those cost me like 80 bucks but solved my leaks.

Also, you have an inline 6 not a V6 ;)
 
Thanks for the tips, my PCV hoses look pretty good I think they were replaced not too long ago. The gasket I got looks to be cork, thats what they handed me at Kragen's. Are these any good? It says something in the intructions about using some kind of cement to glue it in place? Does that sound right, or can I just carefully put it on?

And yes you are correct about inline 6, I don't know what I was thinking.
 
IF its not too much trouble... I would take back the cork valve cover gasket and purchase the neoprene gasket that I previously recommended...
You can purchase it online from RockAuto www.rockauto.com
FEL-PRO valve cover gasket set.... PN VS 50458 R
 
No doubt my old school way will not get much agreement, but I can guarantee it will work (even with the cork gasket).

Clean off both surfaces thoroughly using scrapers (carefully) brass "toothbrushes" in curved sections and mineral spirits. Final clean the valve cover with brake cleaner. Make sure the valve cover isn't dimpled in around where the bolts were overtightened before. If so, use a ball peen hammer (flat side) and a block (or two hammers) to flatten it out around the bolt holes. Use gasket cement to glue the gasket to the valve cover. (Obviously, make sure the bolt holes are lined up good. You will have time to move it around while it dries.) Let it dry completely. Apply a thin coat of grease (wheel bearing or whatever) to the head side of the gasket/cover assembly.

This process insures that the gasket will not slip out during installation and replacement in the future will only require cleaning the valve cover on your bench instead of bending over the engine and scraping crap into the engine.

Then snug up all the bolts from the center out gradually. Using a 1/4" drive and first snugging up and then a final tightening down with one hand directly over the wrench socket with a firm twist of the wrist will be adequate. If you want to get fancy, don't let me stop you from using a torque wrench, but that is serious overkill. If you are not sure, use a torque wrench to get a feel for it.

Using this method, you will also be able to take the valve cover off easily and reuse the gasket without removing it from the valve cover.
 
old school way's are allways appreciated winterbeater, thanks for sharing!

i would definately x2 on changing out the rubber grommets inside the valve cover, pulling the cover just to change those is a pain.
 
No doubt my old school way will not get much agreement, but I can guarantee it will work (even with the cork gasket).

Make sure the valve cover isn't dimpled in around where the bolts were overtightened before. If so, use a ball peen hammer (flat side) and a block (or two hammers) to flatten it out around the bolt holes.

Then snug up all the bolts from the center out gradually. Using a 1/4" drive and first snugging up and then a final tightening down with one hand directly over the wrench socket with a firm twist of the wrist will be adequate. .

two good ideas. Thanks
 
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