KSXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Kansas City
thanks for you help
-
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front locked vs. rear locked
- Thread starter KSXJ
- Start date
afd516
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fort Worth, Tx
Reading this thread tells me you are new to wheelin. Get more time behind the wheel offroad before you do anything. Meanwhile, research what is out the and what would work for you. Just like you seem to be doing.
As far as front or rear, I locked the front first. It made a world of difference.
I do believe that if you take a front locked xj and put it against the equivelent rear lock xj that off road they would be able to do the same obsticles. Offroad, steering would be where the difference would be with the steering of the front locked would be harder and losing some steering radius. Onroad, the rear would possibly wear tires faster and act "funny" in wet conditions. Both of which you can adjust to. If you plan one doing one right after the other is does not matter which you do first.
These are my observations. HTH
As far as front or rear, I locked the front first. It made a world of difference.
I do believe that if you take a front locked xj and put it against the equivelent rear lock xj that off road they would be able to do the same obsticles. Offroad, steering would be where the difference would be with the steering of the front locked would be harder and losing some steering radius. Onroad, the rear would possibly wear tires faster and act "funny" in wet conditions. Both of which you can adjust to. If you plan one doing one right after the other is does not matter which you do first.
These are my observations. HTH
KSXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Kansas City
I am definatly knew to wheeling. But I found I can't do alot of things being open. and want it locked, but don't know if I will ever change out axles. So I was thinking cheaper, and I don't care about tires being worn down, or it chirping. Just want it to be reliable
RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
Buy a No-slip for the rear for now,easy DIY project.Then deside what to put in the front later.
- Location
- Port Orchard, WA
RCP Phx said:
only real good advice in this thread...
:wierd:
goodburbon
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Westcliffe Colorado.
everyone will chime in, and everyone has different opinions. but the #1 fact that has no opinion is gravity.
Locking the front will give you superior traction in all situations with the exception of a hill climb steep enough to shift the majority of the weight of the jeep to the rear tires.........
.......but if you are going up a series of ledges that traction is negated as soon as the front tires are over the crest of the ledge....
now prepare for a run-on sentence
.the same principle applies when crawling over piles of rocks, because the wheel base does not change or flex, whichever wheel is on a lesser (not as steep) angle will pull/push the other wheels until they get traction.
The front is heavier.
Locking the front will give you superior traction in all situations with the exception of a hill climb steep enough to shift the majority of the weight of the jeep to the rear tires.........
.......but if you are going up a series of ledges that traction is negated as soon as the front tires are over the crest of the ledge....
now prepare for a run-on sentence
.the same principle applies when crawling over piles of rocks, because the wheel base does not change or flex, whichever wheel is on a lesser (not as steep) angle will pull/push the other wheels until they get traction.
The front is heavier.
xj trenton
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- canada alberta
If this is driven on the street do the rear first If you like how it handles and dont mind the little quirks you get consider the front. Take into consideration locking the front will cause some steering problems if you don't have a disco 30 and or lockable hubs when driving even in 2wd. And when in 4wd you will have a wider turning radius and a tendency to plow straight ahead which will be more noticeable under power. If you do any winter driving on the street and need 4wd do not put in a locker in the front unless it's a selectable!!!! Some insurance companies will not insure you in an accident if it is being used on the street with a front locker because of the steering problems. just my .02
R
rangerjoe2001
Guest
rangerjoe2001 said:
i have aussie locker f/r and i love them
i know what u mean when you say there is stuff you cant do open, i felt the same way and im not one that likes to pin the gas just so i can get through an obstacle.. locking the rear made me feel a lot better about my rig..
one thing is, that after wheeling open i can see easier lines for the most part.. if you cant see lines.. lockers will only get you so far!
goodburbon
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Westcliffe Colorado.
having made the traction side of the arguement, I failed to state that I agree with those who reccomend to lock the rear if it will be used on the street as a dd, if 4wd hi is required on road (i.e. snow), or if your insurance is an issue.
Personally I have a TRUETRAC (limited slip) front and turn sharper than my wife who has an open front diff. and I cannot tell it is even there in 2wd. In 4wd the biggest push is from a lack of front/rear diff action. and is just as noticable in my wifes jeep as mine, unless she shifts to full time 4wd.
Personally I have a TRUETRAC (limited slip) front and turn sharper than my wife who has an open front diff. and I cannot tell it is even there in 2wd. In 4wd the biggest push is from a lack of front/rear diff action. and is just as noticable in my wifes jeep as mine, unless she shifts to full time 4wd.
Rawbrown
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Encinitas, CA
hasta
OK then, now that I have gone crosseye'd :wierd:
first off, let me clarify the spool/locker question.
Yes a spool is a perminant couple of both halves of the axle. what happens to one happens to the other. There is no differentiation of wheel speed between right and left sides.
A locker is Technically a spool that does not allow an axle to travel slower than the ring gear. when power is applied on straight level ground then 100% of the power is transfered to both wheels. when turning, the outside axle is unlocked and allowed to "freewheel" faster than the ring gear. when the turn stops and the ring gear "catches up" to the outside axle then it locks again. All manual lockers such as ARB and OX are essentially a Spool when activated.
KSCherokee,
Don't get a spool, I can tell that its not for you.
Tell us about your jeep a little more. Year, axles, tranny tires and such will help us on what to suggest.
Lift can have an affect on locker location also. if your front suspension is stiff and doesn't flex as wheel as the rear suspension then I would suggest a front locker. Thats because with stiff front suspension and limited flexability, your front wheels are more likely to lift off the ground. with an open diff that means that one wheel is gonna spin while the wheel still on the ground does nothing. Then your only propeled forward by whatever traction the rear wheels can afford. with a locker up front then that wheel still on the ground is gonna still get power and keep driving forward.
But there is also the case of the one front wheel in the air and not enought traction on the other back wheel. then that wheel spins also and you go nowhere. with a locker in the back then both back wheels will always drive. and most of the time your trying to power up an obsticle. going up means that more weight transfers to the back wheels which makes the rear a little more effective.
OK then, now that I have gone crosseye'd :wierd:
first off, let me clarify the spool/locker question.
Yes a spool is a perminant couple of both halves of the axle. what happens to one happens to the other. There is no differentiation of wheel speed between right and left sides.
A locker is Technically a spool that does not allow an axle to travel slower than the ring gear. when power is applied on straight level ground then 100% of the power is transfered to both wheels. when turning, the outside axle is unlocked and allowed to "freewheel" faster than the ring gear. when the turn stops and the ring gear "catches up" to the outside axle then it locks again. All manual lockers such as ARB and OX are essentially a Spool when activated.
KSCherokee,
Don't get a spool, I can tell that its not for you.
Tell us about your jeep a little more. Year, axles, tranny tires and such will help us on what to suggest.
Lift can have an affect on locker location also. if your front suspension is stiff and doesn't flex as wheel as the rear suspension then I would suggest a front locker. Thats because with stiff front suspension and limited flexability, your front wheels are more likely to lift off the ground. with an open diff that means that one wheel is gonna spin while the wheel still on the ground does nothing. Then your only propeled forward by whatever traction the rear wheels can afford. with a locker up front then that wheel still on the ground is gonna still get power and keep driving forward.
But there is also the case of the one front wheel in the air and not enought traction on the other back wheel. then that wheel spins also and you go nowhere. with a locker in the back then both back wheels will always drive. and most of the time your trying to power up an obsticle. going up means that more weight transfers to the back wheels which makes the rear a little more effective.
xj trenton
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- canada alberta
goodburbon said:
I agree with you on the (limited slip) front once worn in they are almost un noticable. Have you tried running a real good friction modifier ford makes a good one put 2 bottles in and you should see a big difference?
Rawbrown
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Encinitas, CA
FYI, the Truetrac is a gear driven LS. There are no friction discs or clutches. its strictly mechanical.
hence, there is no need for a friction modifier with a TT.
Tracloc's, Auburn's and eatons all require the use of a friction modifier.
hence, there is no need for a friction modifier with a TT.
Tracloc's, Auburn's and eatons all require the use of a friction modifier.
KSXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Kansas City
well I think I got the answer I was looking for, on locking the rear first. But as far as how to lock it, I am still lost.
Is a lunchbox locker the same as a limted slip or they different and where would I get a limited slip for the 8.25 29 spline.
Is one more realiable than another?
Is a lunchbox locker the same as a limted slip or they different and where would I get a limited slip for the 8.25 29 spline.
Is one more realiable than another?
Last edited:
goodburbon
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Westcliffe Colorado.
lunchbox is another name for a lock right or a powertrax.
these are lockers...a locker gives you positive traction, a limited slip will only divert some of the torque to the wheel not spinning. Most limited slips require specail lubricant, and cost just as much as a locker. lunch box lockers are less than 300.
a "lunchbox locker" replaces the spider gears in your original differential, uses the stock "carrier" which is a much easier swap, cheaper, and more effective traction device than most limited slips.
I have a stock ford clutch type limited slip in the rear and it is practically worthless. I wish I could get a lunchbox locker but my fate is already sealed because they only fit "open" carriers not limited slips.
these are lockers...a locker gives you positive traction, a limited slip will only divert some of the torque to the wheel not spinning. Most limited slips require specail lubricant, and cost just as much as a locker. lunch box lockers are less than 300.
a "lunchbox locker" replaces the spider gears in your original differential, uses the stock "carrier" which is a much easier swap, cheaper, and more effective traction device than most limited slips.
I have a stock ford clutch type limited slip in the rear and it is practically worthless. I wish I could get a lunchbox locker but my fate is already sealed because they only fit "open" carriers not limited slips.
KSXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Kansas City
well that answered that question. thanks you have been a lot of help.
The Blu Yak
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Jamestown NC
a rear locker that has been making alot of buzz in the offroad community is aussie locker. They have been making alot of attention and I have heard some good things about them. They arnt to expensive either.
0313
None....
- Location
- On the Road
I think I just lost brain cells reading this thread.
There has been only one or two people that replied to this thread that had posts even worth listening to.
kccherokee, good luck, but dont listen to these dumbasses.
There has been only one or two people that replied to this thread that had posts even worth listening to.
kccherokee, good luck, but dont listen to these dumbasses.
Jeffro600
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cheyenne, Wy
Ive had both the front and rear of mine locked at different times...personally, i prefer to lock the front first. Usually the hardest part of an obstical is getting the first half of the vehicle up and over...which is where the front locker shines as it pulls the front of your vehicle up and over. Another pro to locking the front is you wont notice it on the street in 2WD so it wont affect your daily driving. Its personal preference really...some like the rear locked first, some like the front. I find it more useful to have the front locked first for most larger obsticles however.
Kevlar
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Nanaimo, BC, Canada
0313 said:
And you just made this thread even worse by posting. Go troll somewhere else. That said, ANY locker will provide a night and day difference in offroad abilities. Lock the rear if you have an 8.25 or better, don't lock the d35...for your own good. Lock the front if you have a dana 35 in the back. Lock both if you are h4rdcore.
