Front D30 wheel bearing replacement - hubs?

[cmotsvt]

That application chart is screwed.

 

[bcguy]

Anti-seize isn't a bad idea on the re-installation also

Darren

 

[jlex]

Darren's right... Permatex anti-seize is a must have item. You'll be glad you used it when you have to take it all apart again to replace those noisy axle U joints.
regards,
jlex.

 

[mhead]

Ordered hubs from the internet person mentioned in the posts above. These arrived promptly and appear correct. He claims Timken bearings but I can not find any markings on the bearings to give substance to the claim. The hub assy covers the bearing outer races so I can't see what might be stamped there. No reason to believe that the bearings AREN'T Timken however.

Will install this weekend and post what my experience is. I've had the hubs off recently to install a limited slip in the front (and put them back on with anti-sieze!!) so I'm not expecting a big battle mechanically. I'm still concerned that they will be incorrect dimensionally somehow. Will carefully measure old and new to see if they are the same. What dimension is expected to be different?

(I have a '92 XJ with D30)

 

[johnnyc]

Ordered hubs from the internet person mentioned in the posts above. These arrived promptly and appear correct. He claims Timken bearings but I can not find any markings on the bearings to give substance to the claim. The hub assy covers the bearing outer races so I can't see what might be stamped there. No reason to believe that the bearings AREN'T Timken however.

Will install this weekend and post what my experience is. I've had the hubs off recently to install a limited slip in the front (and put them back on with anti-sieze!!) so I'm not expecting a big battle mechanically. I'm still concerned that they will be incorrect dimensionally somehow. Will carefully measure old and new to see if they are the same. What dimension is expected to be different?

(I have a '92 XJ with D30)

I received my hub assemblies from this same person. There is writing on them that says DEA PRODUCTS. Couldn't find any info on this name.

FYI, the area where the axle nut and washer go was a bit deeper on these new hubs, so that the cotter pin did not even pass through the nut retainer. I had to use a couple of shims under each axle nut in order for the retainer and cotter pin to work.

 

[mhead]

Yes, my hubs say DEA on them as well.

What did you use for shims? I don't have any more axle nuts.

 

[johnnyc]

I just went to the hardware store and bought a few thin washers, as I didn't know how many would be necessary. Ended up putting two between the axle washer and axle nut. It's only like 2-3 mm difference. But it's just enough so that the retainer and cotter pin were off.

 

[jlex]

I didn't notice any dimensional difference between the new & old hub assembly on my '98. The crown or retainer "nut" and the replacement cotter pin fit just right w/o any need to shim it out. I guess as long as shims are being used after the axle nut goes on, it's not critical to the assembly.
jlex.

 

[mhead]

The bearing replacement took only about 3hrs & went very well. The part is good & is identical to the original.
Just a few tips:
the axle nut is difficult to remove; I used an impact wrench after first giving it a shot with a 1/2" breaker bar. Even the impact wrench labored.
Don't bother with a conventional wrench on the hub bolts: use a 13mm (& 1/2" if necessary) 12 point socket on a 3/8" breaker bar to loosen the bolts. A 6 point socket won't work. Use PB blaster on the head & on the tip of the bolts after wire brushing the rust off prior to loosening.
When all bolts are off, put the tire on with loosely applied lug nuts & use it as a puller to yank off the actual hub.
Should put the car in 4 wheel drive & leave the passenger side tire on the ground to keep your wheel from turning.
Get a 3" cotter pin to replace the used one before starting.
Make sure you put the dust shield on the right way before reattaching everything... it comes off all of a sudden with the hub & you can't tell, except by looking at the other wheel, just how it goes back on... don't ask me how I know.
No big deal... is a good Saturday morning project.
regards,
jlex.

Yep, jlex you are right on about the install. I was lucky and had my old hubs off in the last year, replaced with anti-sieze, so today's removal went very well. Yes fell into the dust shield trap and had to take the hub off and put it on correctly before I could get the disc on. Ha! Didn't get 3" cotter pins and mine broke. Shoulda got them first. Used a 36 mm socket and 1/2" bar to loosen wheel nuts. Found a 6 foot pry bar when jammed against the ground and the hub wheel lugs is a good way to keep the hub from turning when the wheel nut is torqued.

New ebay HUB513084 hubs are great fit for my '92 XJ I-6 auto 4X4 with stock D30 in the front and ABS. Can't tell about quality of the hubs. They are machined very well. Seller claims Timken bearings but actual bearing type can't be determined from any markings visible on the hub. They arrived promptly.

Only difference on my '92 is that the axle nut screws on a few turns further on new hubs than on old resulting in the nut being a little further from the hole drilled in the axle for the cotter pin. It appears that the cotter pin will still engage the keeper so I didn't add shims as you mentioned above. 'Shims' I guess mean additional washers placed between nut and hub. I didn't try the hardware store, but such a washer should have at least a 0.950" diameter hole and be no more than 2" diameter outside. Thickness might be something like 0.050".

Looks like at least some of the models and years the ebay seller lists are correct. HUB513084 works on a '92. Quality is unknown.

 

[mhead]

Well... guess I was premature in claiming success with the new ebay hubs on my '92.

I've noticed a new clunk in the front end. This clunk happens when going from forwards to backwards or vice versa with the front wheels turned sharply and in 2WD. Once rolling in either direction the clunk disappears, as it does with the wheels straight. It only happens when starting out in a new direction with the wheels turned sharply. It is the kind of clunk that makes me think something is slipping a few 0.001" under intense force. Appeared to come from both wheels although a sound such as this one could easily travel through the axles and is difficult to pinpoint the source.

The only things new are the hubs. So maybe I didn't thighten something. I removed both new hubs checking for this -torques ok- and installed the old hubs. Clunk not evident. Ok, well maybe one of the new hubs is defective somehow. Removed driver's side old hub and installed first new hub. Clunk comes back. Removed first new hub from driver's side and installed second new hub. Clunk still there. Removed new hub and replaced with old hub. Clunk goes away.

So each of the new hubs clunks.

As jlex says, the nut screws on a little further on new hubs than on old. Carefully measured threads on shaft with the idea that maybe the nut was bottoming out on the threads just before pulling the alxe tight within the new hub. Nope, plenty of threads left so I'm confident the axle is fully pulled into the hub. I doubt the axle anyway since I'm in 2WD. The axle should be passively turning and I don't see how it would make such a large clunk.

I reviewed many of the dimensions comparing new hub to old. There are slight differences but they are small and I'd guess they are simple manufacturing variation. My only candidate for the clunk is the OD of the hub. This machined diameter fits into the corresponding diameter hole in the steering knuckle. This is nearly 3" diameter. New hub is about 0.007" smaller diameter than old hub. Maybe the entire hub assy is slipping back/forth...?

I suppose it could be something to do with the bearings in the hubs but this exceeds my ability to measure.

In any event now I get to see if the ebay seller will make good on his promise to take the hubs back... And also I have to find a new source for hubs.

At least I can put a hub on in just a few minutes now.

Stay tuned.

 

[johnnyc]

I have a similar problem with these hubs. But mine is not a clunking. My new hubs creak a lot when I back out of my garage. But no noise when I'm going straight.

The seller claims a Timken "part number". Which is true...this is the number that Timken uses. But so do several other companies.

Haven't reached a definitive opinion on these hubs. As a matter of fact, I still haven't left the seller any feedback on E-bay. Probably wouldn't buy again or recommemd them to anyone.

 

[mhead]

My hubs are boxed and on their way back. Seller says he will refund my money but I doubt I'll get shipping either way. Oh well... We'll see if the $$ comes back!

Now I need a new supplier for the hubs.

 

[mhead]

$87.95 each for OMIX ADA's from Rubicon4X4.com

http://www.rubicon4x4.com/catalog/front-assembly-jeep-p-3330.html


They work fine and hold up very well.

Ok, here's another alternative. I called the supplier who wants 20% restocking charge should I not like the hubs. They are $87 each.

Anyone have experience with these?

 

[langer1]

I have a similar problem with these hubs. But mine is not a clunking. My new hubs creak a lot when I back out of my garage. But no noise when I'm going straight.

The seller claims a Timken "part number". Which is true...this is the number that Timken uses. But so do several other companies.

Haven't reached a definitive opinion on these hubs. As a matter of fact, I still haven't left the seller any feedback on E-bay. Probably wouldn't buy again or recommemd them to anyone.

Creaking when your wheels are not straight is caused by bad j-joints not the hubs.

 

[mhead]

Creaking when your wheels are not straight is caused by bad j-joints not the hubs.

I wish it were so in this case. But it is difficult to explain in UJ terms how the clunk is heard with the new hubs but disappears when the old hubs are re-installed and appears again when one or the other new hub is yet installed again. Too much correlation with the hub, unless the new hub is somehow stressing the UJ in a different way than the old hub. And of course if a UJ problem then why doesn't it clunk every rotation of the axle instead of just when the vehicle starts moving. But of course I can't explain in hub terms why it doesn't happen with the wheels straight.

Anyway, hubs have shipped back. When I purchase/install new ones I'll get another opportunity to hear the clunk if it's UJ somehow.

 

[jlex]

mhead:
Haven't been following this thread, but glad I checked in today...
It's funny, but I've noticed a single "click" or crack sound after replacing my LF bearing also. Didn't have that sound before with the old bearing.
I didn't give it much attention... searched the posts & attributed it to a suspension issue from jacking the car up (improperly) at the connection point of the lower control arm. Found numerous posts which precisely described the single clunk phenomenon when backing up with the wheel turned & most recommendations were that the track bar was loose.
I tightened my track bar mount in the left spring area, and found that the click was nearly eliminated, although it's still there a bit. There's another bolt just behind the spring that requires an 18mm wrench that I couldn't get to so I felt this is where the rest of the problem was. BTW, careful if you try to tighten with an impact wrench... you can shear the bolt right off... don't ask me how I know.
Am amazed to hear that you eliminated the problem with reinstallation of the old bearing... if I have time, I may try to do a reinstall myself just for fun.
Keep us posted on what a new bearing does.
regards,
jlex.

 

[jlex]

Forgot to post: I ruled out the UJ problem as well... It isn't a multiple click noise as you would expect with a stressed U joint; also I paid close attention to any play in the joint when I had the axle out & I'm convinced its good.
regards,
jlex.

 

[mhead]

I returned bearings to eBay seller. He refuned full purchase price, even including the shipping!

I'm still in the market for new bearings...