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Ford 24lb Fuel Injectors Myth Buster; Proven Results

The only way I can see an injector being a factor in a cam failure is if it were leaking bad enough to dilute the oil due to excessive fuel leaking into the oil.

And assuming that was true, there is a very good chance the crank shaft would also wear out.
The OP either had a bad cam shaft or an in-experiance technician.
On the other hand, I have seen someone who speceked their own build including using the wrong valve springs had a cam shaft fail (wear out) after about 10 hours. This was chevy 454 engine in a boat.
 
Some misinformation in this thread for sure...

There are two major types of injectors. The first being a high impedence type(resistance not frequency), and a low impedence type (low resistance). Typically a low resistance injector is refered to as a "peak and hold" while the high resistance is refered to as a saturated injector. It's fairly understood that peak and hold injectors are more accurate and stable over a broader range of pulse widths than a saturated type. However peak and holds usually require more complicated circuitry including resistors, thus making them slightly more expensive. Measuring the resistance accross the injector's terminals is considered the best method of finding out which type you have. Although in my experience, a saturated injector typically has a smaller body than a peak and hold, but I've seen both types use the same body (Accel's for example).

Look here for more info:
http://www.fuelinjectorclinic.com/injectors/technical/

As far as I know, most jeeps use a saturated type injector.

I'm using a 400cc ford injector (bosch style) in my XJ with no problems. I have control over the pulse width though.

BTW, how sure are you that your bank1 O2 sensor is AOK?

Also, did I read this right?
the ASE certified mechanic assisting me told me he found out from someone else that he works with that there are "high frequency and low frequency" fuel injectors.

So an ASE tech "found out" from someone else that there are two types of injectors? Was he certified in the 70's or something?
 
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Can I make another suggestion with the cam failure?

IIRC, about a couple years ago, A LOT of oil manufactures removed the zinc from therir oils (helps extend the life of new models with catalytic convertors). When this happened there was a increase in flat tappet cam failures. COULD be part of the problem

Also if I recall correctly not that long ago, one of the cam manufacturers sold a bad batch of cams that had significantly higher failure rates than usual. But from everything I've read here and the 30k miles I put on my old jeep, never had a problem with the ford injectors
 
.. Can some of you take pictures of your fuel injectors? I don't understand how I can have two sets that absolutely refuse to work, and everyone else in the world has them and they work.
 
I had plans for a stroker swap so I picked up some 08 mustang injectors with really low miles. I can't seem to get the finances together so if any body wants them send me a p.m.
 
Why does everyone run only Ford injectors? I am guessing that injectors come in my styles or fittings and the Ford "style" is one of the few that fits in the 4.0?
 
Why does everyone run only Ford injectors? I am guessing that injectors come in my styles or fittings and the Ford "style" is one of the few that fits in the 4.0?

More of a "cheap" alternative. You could spend $300 on new injectors, or get a set of eight (couple of spares) out of a Ford (they are Bosch injectors) out of most any 3.8 V6 through V8s at a salvage yard for $30+.

Dodge Neon injectors will work, will probably cost a little more.

You need the right connector, late model (99.5+) switched to the EV6, earlier are all EV1. There are the "stick" style later injectors or the earlier "fat boys", most prefer the 4-hole disc style than the earlier single pintle. You need injectors that will deliver enough fuel without "freezing"--going static at the far end of their duty cycle. Search for Rainman, he has good writeup/chart on options.
 
A can of BG44k will clean those clogged injectors.
 
A can of BG44k will clean those clogged injectors.
I was experiencing reluctant starting in my '96. Bad check valve or injector leaking down overnight. I ran a can of BG44k through the tank, and by the time the tank needed filling again, it starts just fine . Which leads me to think dirty injector, as a very slight, almost inaudible mis-fire is also gone!
I've been in corresponding with Five o Motorsports, and they suggested a Bosch number for my '96, a four-hole deal promising better MPG and throttle response. Gonna find out soon...
 
.. Can some of you take pictures of your fuel injectors? I don't understand how I can have two sets that absolutely refuse to work, and everyone else in the world has them and they work.

Found this...

Ford_Injector_Guide.jpg


Mine are blue, but IIRC they look most like the 24# ones labeled 'Ford Trucks'.
 
FWIW... a picture will only tell you half the story.

For example: You can have an EV1/high impedence injector which looks exactly like a EV1/low resistance injector. If you don't know what the injector is, the only way to tell is with a multi-meter.

It's entirely possible to blow your ECU by throwing in the wrong set of injectors, so be careful!
 
FWIW... a picture will only tell you half the story.

For example: You can have an EV1/high impedence injector which looks exactly like a EV1/low resistance injector. If you don't know what the injector is, the only way to tell is with a multi-meter.

It's entirely possible to blow your ECU by throwing in the wrong set of injectors, so be careful!


Would it be possible to find or see a resistor box wired in to the harness for those peak & hold injectors on any of the Fords being pulled? I know in the Honda world the Pre OBD1 vehicles ran them in most of their cars. 92 and up Honda civics used High impedance injectors.
 
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