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Fitting Larger Dual Electric fans

GoJeep, IINM, lists some CFM values on his site- IIRC he did some simple tests to come up with them. It's surely around here somewhere.

I think the only thing GoJeep said was a CFM recommendation from the radiator builder. 2000 CFM minimum 3000 CFM for towing. A custom radiator shop is probably the best place to find out what’s needed.
 
I removed the bump in the radiator hold down for easier mounting.

The fans are now done and mounted. I still need to do some testing.
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I really like how this turned out. Mind sharing the cost of all this? What controller are you running?
 
Fans CSR 1212HD or Maradyne M122K: $109.69 each
Aluminum sheet 13x31x0.063: $24.18
Derale 16759 adjustable dual fan controller A/C override: $39.95
I also used some weather stripping on the back side to seal the shroud against the radiator core.

So far everything is working great a little loud but I knew that might happen. The temperature is staying in the 190 range and I haven't hit the 210 or beyond yet.

I have one more test to do, drive to the mountain pass. For some reason driving 80 uphill for a half hour seems to build some heat.
 
Me, I'm anal on the gauges, always checking them.

How about a low-voltage alarm/warning light?
I was of the opinion that that was what the GEN light was for, though it'd be trivial to build one. I keep a VERY close eye on my gauges, check them every minute or two, because I've had oil pressure and coolant temp issues on the MJ in the last few months (both fixed seemingly.)

No belt, no water pump. Things get real hot real quick.
X2. No belt means no water pump and no mechanical fan AND after a while no e-fan either, not that it matters with no water pump.

i dont know about you guys but i always have spare belt in my jeep
Likewise. If I replace my belt, the old one goes under the back seat with the jumper cables.
 
Driving with no belt was a joke it started raining and I moved about 10 feet.
 
Goodyear Gatorback 4060980 98". It was a tight fit I could have used an extra half inch. I don't know what year my pulleys match with. I'd still cut an old belt or something and measure it to make sure.
 
Time for a final update and some more pictures. Everything is still working great. I set the fans to turn on at 210°F to let the engine run a little hotter before it would get in the 180° range which was a little low. With the fans set at the higher temperature it now runs in the upper 190°'s and a maximum of 210°.

A side view showing the clearance
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Had a small issue with low voltage at idle installed a Powermaster 47902 140A alternator
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Don't you love it when one mod means you need another mod means you need another mod......
 
It all started with a stroker and it's never going to end.
 
Time for a final update and some more pictures. Everything is still working great. I set the fans to turn on at 210°F to let the engine run a little hotter before it would get in the 180° range which was a little low. With the fans set at the higher temperature it now runs in the upper 190°'s and a maximum of 210°.

A side view showing the clearance
imgp1003.jpg


imgp1004.jpg


imgp1005.jpg


Had a small issue with low voltage at idle installed a Powermaster 47902 140A alternator
imgp0993.jpg

what fuel pressure regulator is that? direct fit? what pressure are you running?
 
Not direct fit. It’s a universal fuel pressure regulator on a modified 99 fuel rail on an 89. It's from eBay Universal adjustable fuel pressure regulator for $26 Hesco sells one for $179. It’s been a while since I set the pressure and the gauge broke. I try to stay away from Hesco. If you want to spend $179 for a fuel pressure regulator go to Summit Racing or Jegs.
 
what did you have to do to mod the 99 rail?
 
If I remember correctly. On a 99 the fuel pressure regulator is in the tank so there is only one line going to the fuel rail. The 89 has a regulator on the rail so it needs a return line to the tank. Since I was using a 99 intake and the 99 fuel rail bolts directly to it I cut the end off and brazed a fitting for the regulator. I think that's all I did.
 
Correct. 96 and later have the FPR in/on the pump. 96 is a redheaded stepchild and has the old style tank, one-of-a-kind fuel level sender, and I'm not sure exactly where the pressure regulator is but it's inside the tank somewhere. 97 and later, it's held to the top of the pump assembly via a stainless steel clip, accessible from outside the tank... after you drop it. There is a vapor return line for the evap system, but no liquid fuel return line.

95 and earlier, the regulator is on the side of the fuel injector rail and the return line carries liquid. This is why the 95 and earlier are more resistant to vapor lock / heat soak.
 
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