First Timer Build

[XJEEPER]

Unless you go with Bushwacker Flat Flares, which take up little real estate and provide good coverage.

If you plan on rubbing flares on rocks or trees, you might want to just skip the plastic and go straight to steel tube flares.

 

[clean4drxj]

Unless you go with Bushwacker Flat Flares, which take up little real estate and provide good coverage.

If you plan on rubbing flares on rocks or trees, you might want to just skip the plastic and go straight to steel tube flares.

True.. both are nice looking options as well.

 

[Jeepedo129]

I'm in the same boat as several others here, Frame stiffeners are a must. they take away a lot of random rattles, plus give you a sturdy foundation to build from.

I personally did the HD offroad Front and rail stiffeners and haven't regretted it since. They are fairly priced and do the Job. the only draw back are the number of rosette welds that you have to fill.

http://hdoffroadengineering.myshopify.com/collections/frontpage/products/xj-frame-stiffeners

I did a write up on my build thread of the front stiffener install with the help of some members. (xJeeper) Getting a welder will save you so much money in the long run, and its fun!

http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1099482

Ultimately, have fun and enjoy your new rig!!

 

[KBeast666]

Thanks for all of the info guys. Sorry I haven't responded in a while, but I wanted to update you on my build. I finally got all of my parts (except the rear cv driveshaft, which is coming in very soon) and installed almost everything. Here is what I went with to start my build:

-Rubicon Express 4.5" lift with Monotube Shocks
-Rubicon Express HD Track bar bracket and brace (more on that later)
-Pro Comp 7069 15x8 rims
-33x12.5x15 Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac Tires
-Rough Country Control Arm Drop Brackets
-Iron Rock Offroad HD tie rod and steering box bracket
-M.O.R.E steering box brace
-P.O.R.C SYE & driveshaft (not yet installed)
-4 degree shims for rear axle for SYE (already installed)
-Synergy Sway Bar Relocation Brackets (just ordered due to tie rod/drag link hitting with suspension drooping)

Just a few things I wanted to mention about the install. First, I wish I had done a little more research because I didn't realize that the adjustable track bar that came with the kit wasn't compatible with the HD bracket that I ordered. I just assumed that the HD bracket was a drop bracket that allowed you to run the track bar in double shear. I later found out that you're supposed to use it with their HD track bar. This was after I drilled out the bracket to fit the larger 5/8" bolt that comes with the non-HD track bar (designed to run in single shear with the original track bar mount). I decided to order the HD track bar (and a new bracket since I drilled it out) since it has a rebuildable joint whereas the non-HD version has a non-rebuildable heim joint. So I will be selling it (and the bracket if anyone wants it) once I replace it. Second, I ended up ordering sway bar relocation brackets since the drag link/tie rod end hits the disconnect/bracket on the passenger side when the suspension is drooped. Not sure if having the control arm drop brackets and/or not having a drop pitman arm (which I've read is not necessary for 4.5" of lift) is the culprit of that, but the relocation brackets seem to be a good fix for it from what I've read. Third, it seems like the leaf springs are either too short (like I've read about Rough Country springs, but not RE) or they just need to wear in, as my rear shackle angle is almost 90 degrees instead of 45 degrees backwards. Hopefully they wear in some as the rear lift is closer to 5.5 or 6" as it sits now. And lastly (for now anyway), I have a pretty bad vibration on acceleration around 15-25mph and a weird rapid clunking/knocking sound on decel/braking around 40mph (which is lessened if shifted into neutral). I installed the t-case drop included in the kit for now until I get to do my SYE, but I also installed the 4 degree shims on the rear axle. Not sure if the driveline angle is causing this or if it's just accentuating bad u-joint(s) in rear driveshaft. Hopefully the SYE and CV driveshaft will fix this, but if not I guess I will be doing a bit of diagnostic work.

I will post pictures and updates later (hopefully not too much later).

 

[clean4drxj]

Thanks for all of the info guys. Sorry I haven't responded in a while, but I wanted to update you on my build. I finally got all of my parts (except the rear cv driveshaft, which is coming in very soon) and installed almost everything. Here is what I went with to start my build:

-Rubicon Express 4.5" lift with Monotube Shocks
-Rubicon Express HD Track bar bracket and brace (more on that later)
-Pro Comp 7069 15x8 rims
-33x12.5x15 Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac Tires
-Rough Country Control Arm Drop Brackets
-Grand cherokee (ZJ) v8 tie rod, JCR steering box bracket
-M.O.R.E steering box brace
-P.O.R.C SYE & driveshaft (not yet installed)
-4 degree shims for rear axle for SYE (already installed)
-Synergy Sway Bar Relocation Brackets (just ordered due to tie rod/drag link hitting with suspension drooping)

Just a few things I wanted to mention about the install. First, I wish I had done a little more research because I didn't realize that the adjustable track bar that came with the kit wasn't compatible with the HD bracket that I ordered. I just assumed that the HD bracket was a drop bracket that allowed you to run the track bar in double shear. I later found out that you're supposed to use it with their HD track bar. This was after I drilled out the bracket to fit the larger 5/8" bolt that comes with the non-HD track bar (designed to run in single shear with the original track bar mount). I decided to order the HD track bar (and a new bracket since I drilled it out) since it has a rebuildable joint whereas the non-HD version has a non-rebuildable heim joint. So I will be selling it (and the bracket if anyone wants it) once I replace it. Second, I ended up ordering sway bar relocation brackets since the drag link/tie rod end hits the disconnect/bracket on the passenger side when the suspension is drooped. Not sure if having the control arm drop brackets and/or not having a drop pitman arm (which I've read is not necessary for 4.5" of lift) is the culprit of that, but the relocation brackets seem to be a good fix for it from what I've read. Third, it seems like the leaf springs are either too short (like I've read about Rough Country springs, but not RE) or they just need to wear in, as my rear shackle angle is almost 90 degrees instead of 45 degrees backwards. Hopefully they wear in some as the rear lift is closer to 5.5 or 6" as it sits now. And lastly (for now anyway), I have a pretty bad vibration on acceleration around 15-25mph and a weird rapid clunking/knocking sound on decel/braking around 40mph (which is lessened if shifted into neutral). I installed the t-case drop included in the kit for now until I get to do my SYE, but I also installed the 4 degree shims on the rear axle. Not sure if the driveline angle is causing this or if it's just accentuating bad u-joint(s) in rear driveshaft. Hopefully the SYE and CV driveshaft will fix this, but if not I guess I will be doing a bit of diagnostic work.
I revised the tierod for you, might save you a few bucks...
I will post pictures and updates later (hopefully not too much later).

I've ran a setup like this on my jeep when i first started and it should be cured with an sye, however the axle shims will play a role in helping as well. Just make sure the rear axle yoke is pointed just below the tcase output.

 

[lazyxj]

Second, I ended up ordering sway bar relocation brackets since the drag link/tie rod end hits the disconnect/bracket on the passenger side when the suspension is drooped. Not sure if having the control arm drop brackets and/or not having a drop pitman arm (which I've read is not necessary for 4.5" of lift) is the culprit of that, but the relocation brackets seem to be a good fix for it from what I've read.

it seems like the leaf springs are either too short (like I've read about Rough Country springs, but not RE) or they just need to wear in, as my rear shackle angle is almost 90 degrees instead of 45 degrees backwards.

I have a pretty bad vibration on acceleration around 15-25mph and a weird rapid clunking/knocking sound on decel/braking around 40mph (which is lessened if shifted into neutral).

Hitting the sway bars is normal for a lifted XJ, the sway bar relocation brackets are a good fix as long as your sway-bar disconnects still fit.
I cut a slit in my XJ's brackets, bent them up and welded the cut up.

You might want to get a pair of no-lift shackle relocation boxes to adjust the shackles to a more favorable angle.
http://www.hdoffroadengineering.com...oducts/no-lift-xj-shackle-relocation-brackets

Don't bother with playing around with the shims yet, do the SYE and get it over with. It only takes a couple hours to put it in and it can be done with the transfercase still in the vehicle.
Lift the Jeep as high as you can and put it on stands for access. Look for a writeup, it takes a pair of snap ring pliers and sealant for resealing the case.

Expect to spend many hours getting everything adjusted and aligned, it's all part of the game and enjoyment.

 

[KBeast666]

Hitting the sway bars is normal for a lifted XJ, the sway bar relocation brackets are a good fix as long as your sway-bar disconnects still fit.
I cut a slit in my XJ's brackets, bent them up and welded the cut up.

You might want to get a pair of no-lift shackle relocation boxes to adjust the shackles to a more favorable angle.
http://www.hdoffroadengineering.com...oducts/no-lift-xj-shackle-relocation-brackets

Don't bother with playing around with the shims yet, do the SYE and get it over with. It only takes a couple hours to put it in and it can be done with the transfercase still in the vehicle.
Lift the Jeep as high as you can and put it on stands for access. Look for a writeup, it takes a pair of snap ring pliers and sealant for resealing the case.

Expect to spend many hours getting everything adjusted and aligned, it's all part of the game and enjoyment.

I figured that hitting the sway bar bracket was common, but I didn't know if the control arm drop brackets were part of what caused it since they look like they push the axle forward about an inch. Either way, I'm glad that they make the lengthened brackets to clear.

I was thinking about getting those shackle relocation boxes, but I'm gonna wait a little while and see if the springs sag a little and push the shackles back to where they should be. If not, then I'll be getting those.

I already put in the 4 degree shims for the rear axle when I installed the rear leaf springs since I was going to be doing the SYE and read that the shims need to be used. And I only did the T-case drop kit for now since it came with the lift kit and was a quick "let's see if this fixes it for now" kind of thing. I have the cv driveshaft coming and will be installing the SYE as soon as it comes in. I'm not worried about doing the SYE, since I have all of the necessary equipment, I just didn't want to put it in without having the driveshaft to finish it up.

Got the alignment done, which was more of a pain in the ass than I had hoped it would be, but it didn't surprise me either. Can't wait to actually get this thing off-road. Thanks for the advice.