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Feedback on TNT Y link Kit

The kit is awsome. TnT customer service sucks the left one. Shipping was $140 (pretty ridiculous but i ordered the trac bar kit too). You dont need a lift i did it in the back yard, in the dirt, with two 6 ton jack stands and a jack. Get a good unibit and a good 13/16" drill bit. Yes they come bare metal and you paint it what ever youd like.
 
Center limiting strap should have been here a while ago...still haven't seen it from tellico! It's fine until you go climb really really steep stuff. I'm also contemplating running different coils to help stiffen the front end up. Currently have Rusty's 4.5" coils and 1.5" spacers with 12" travel 5150s. In the rear I'm running alcan leaves.

I'm also still contemplating whether buying an ATV winch and mounting it under the motor so that I can pull the front end down for steep climbs woudl be the way to go. Sure would be pimp!!
 
yeah it is kinda a lot for shipping, but it comes in 3 (i think) pretty good sized/weight boxes. as an ebay seller, i can tell you that it would by no means be cheap to do.
 
haha my bellyskid came with a UPS sticker slapped on it and thats it. the rest did come in boxes.
 
I don't want to hijack the thread but any one using the Y link, what kind if rock sliders do you have? I am looking at getting the Y link but I want to make sure what ever sliders I get will work with the system. Thanks, again sorry for the hijack.
 
SOUTHTEXASXJ said:
On their wesite they show diff colors on vehicals is there just one color and peeps powdercoated them? what color was your's?
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Installed half of mine tonight.

The six holes are 3/4 not 13/16 like someone else said. They are a total bitch to drill.

This is the second one of these I have done or helped done in two weeks and we learned a big secret. A 3/4 inch holesaw is your new best friend.

Cut into the uni-body using a uni-bit. Get it to where you can just start the 3/4 inch hole saw and have fun.

Bot the jeeps we did it on also had the extra thickness of the TNT stiffeners which makes the holes just that much harder to cut through
 
huh, my directions say 13/16" and thats what i used for the crush sleve holes... maybe they have been changed.
 
I'm pretty sure they say to drill to 13/16" just to give it that 1/16" of play to slide the crush sleaves in. But you don't NEED a 13/16" bit to do the job. Like the above said the 3/4" hole saw is your best friend. And at least in my experience, my 3/4" hole saw cuts holes slightly larger than 3/4" due to either teeth slightly bent out or the fact that my old drill has a very slight wobble to it. Either way the drilling truly does suck and took me the better part of a day. I also had the pleasure of drilling through T&T stiffeners + the frame and interior supports.
 
I ahve this kit and I love it. It is VERY stout. The install can be a bit of a pain, only because you do have to do a lot of drilling. Once the holes are drilled though, it is a very strong setup. It drives, steers and flexes as good as anything I have experienced.

As for the sliders. They will work just fine unless you also use T&T's unibody stiffener kit. The kit adds 3/16" steel along the inner "frame" rails. I just welded 3'16's along the pinch seam portion of the sliders and they work great. If yours don't have the pinch seam, then you will have nothing to worry about.

One post said their customer service sucks but I have had great luck with them. I called them over and over again regarding different products adn they were always willing to help me and give me useful info. The kid there is a regular guy and he doesn't give you the professional, "Yes sir, no sir," but he'll tell you right and may include a couple of explicatives, but it's only because he's excited about their products.

I highly recommend them to anyone (and no I don't know them or get a kickback).

Good Luck!
 
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