Exhaust Manifold bolts...

[mhopton]

...what size are they?

I want to pick up a swivel head, ratcheting wrench for my manifold replacement this weekend but don't want to buy a complete $99 set of Craftsman metric wrenches.

BTW, www.dailydriventj.com has the best write-up I've seen on replacing the exhaust manifold AND detailed pics of doing the RMS. Maybe not a big deal for some, but detailed writeups with lots of pics are really the difference in taking on some of these tasks myself and saving money.

Stu-offroad provided a great write-up on PS Pump and PS Gearbox removal and replacement.

 

[JJacobs]

9/16 or 14mm, don't remember exactly. Basically interchangeable, a 14 is a little tighter fit. I just did an APN on my 97 last weekend and found that the old manifold came off easily while working above the engine, using 9/16 shorty impact swivel, 3/8 drive on a fairly long extension. Going back together I did have to get on two of the bottom bolts toward the rear from underneath with a GearWrench, the swivel and extension couldn't get it done.

 

[rocknxj]

14mm for sure. I just tightened mine yesterday. And thanks for the link. I'm doing my RMS this weekend.

 

[mhopton]

Thanks - 14mm for the WIN!!

JJ, have you been happy with the APN header? That's what I have although I am going to use a Fel-Pro gasket with it.

Also, I picked up replacement o'rings from NAPA for the injectors. Napa says I need 12 total, 2 per injector, but I don't think that's right, so I only bought 6. Can anyone confirm/deny whether it's 6, or 12?

RMS is in a couple of weeks for me, too

 

[5-90]

3/8"-16x1-1/4", takes a 9/16" wrench. Get a "flex" socket - you'll be glad you did.

If you don't remove the injectors from the fuel rail, you'll only need six O-rings - but I still suggest replacing all twelve.

Replace the manifold screws - bronze if you can get it, SAE5 if you can't.

 

[ChiXJeff]

12. 1 for the tip end of the injector, 1 for the rail end of the injector.

Although.... when I did mine, I disconnected the fuel line from the quick disconnect at the pressure regulator, and just left all the injectors in the intake manifold.

 

[mhopton]

12. 1 for the tip end of the injector, 1 for the rail end of the injector.

Although.... when I did mine, I disconnected the fuel line from the quick disconnect at the pressure regulator, and just left all the injectors in the intake manifold.

Is a special tool needed to disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail? If not, great, I'll leave the injectors in the manifold - the less I have to disassemble on this job the better.

 

[mhopton]

3/8"-16x1-1/4", takes a 9/16" wrench. Get a "flex" socket - you'll be glad you did.

If you don't remove the injectors from the fuel rail, you'll only need six O-rings - but I still suggest replacing all twelve.

Replace the manifold screws - bronze if you can get it, SAE5 if you can't.

Are these screws available at Napa, or are they a dealer item? 9/16 - not 14mm...correct?

 

[ChiXJeff]

Supposedly, you do have to use a special tool. I didn't, on my 94, I just compressed the locking tabs and very gently removed the line. Didn't even damage the o-ring.

At least, I'm reasonably sure that's what I did, that was 10 years ago.

 

[JJacobs]

I left the fuel rail in place and unclipped the fuel line. Takes a standard fuel line quick disconnect tool, 5/16 I believe.

The APN header did NOT fit. I made it fit. Took a decent amount of grinding on the underside of the intake above cylinder 1's tube. That was the only issue, the outlet lined up perfectly with the stock downpipe. I also used a Felpro gasket, didn't want to chance it.

Seems to run about the same.

 

[asatxj]

another tip
Reinstalling the intake can be a pain as some have mentioned. Also the fit between the guide pins and the holes for them is very snug. I had to do the job twice because one didn't seat. Sooo on the second time I took my 1/2" bit and put in my cordless and ran it about 2x around in the hole nice and easy. This gave me just enough slop to get it engaged, tapped it with a hammer and we were in business.. That plus some anti-seize and it went much better the second time.
YMMV

 

[5-90]

Are these screws available at Napa, or are they a dealer item? 9/16 - not 14mm...correct?

9/16" and 14m/m are roughly equivalent - close enough that I've used one in place of the other in the past (similar to 5/16" and 11m/m, or 3/4" and 19m/m. There are a few equivalent larger sizes as well - 1-1/4" and 30m/m come to mind for some reason.)

The screws can be had pretty much anywhere - order of preference would be: 1) bronze, 2) SAE5, 3) CRES, 4) SAE8. Just be sure to avoid Chinese or Korean screws - Chinese still can't heat-treat worth a damn, and the Koreans learned from the Chinese (Hong Kong is borderline OK. Taiwan isn't bad. Japanese, German, or Polish are generally excellent.)