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engine wont upshift or rev over 2500

it really doesnt look bad (i ran oil change shops for 10 yrs and have seen a lot of milkshake oil) it looks like oil and smells normal. i changed the oil myself 3 wks ago and know for a fact i didnt overfill. 6 qts w filter. and i know it always shows a tad over the "full" mark. and i checked it after i was done. it now is well past where it was 3 wks ago.
 
Well, if it isn't coolant it would have to be fuel.

You could have the oil tested.

Either way, I would drain and refill to the correct level.
 
running compression chcks now. how long should i let the guage sit on each cyl to see if there is leakdown?
 
nevermind my last post, my gauge doesnt work like that i feel like im wasting my time, but gonna do it anyway
 
compression
cyl# 1 80, 110, 128, and seemed low so i cranked again and got 140
#2 120, 140, 150
#3 110 150 162
#4 140 150 160
#5 125 150 160
#6 110 125 155

i got more liberal with my figures cuz i figured #1 was my culprit. after reinstalling spark plugs (which look like hell by the way, but i have no other car and no $ so they went back in) topped off rad fluid, i ran the jeep for 30 seconds maybe, the temp gauge went up a tick. the upper rad hose and thermostat housing were hot to the touch. opened rad and the fluid looks like stale rootbeer mixed with milk.
 
engine oil level is now back to the full mark!?!?!?! could it have been expanded yesterday cuz the engine was so hot? is it getting into the water instead of the other way around? rad fluid is brown........
 
its due, but not way over. its been two years since water pump replacement and i drained everything then a refilled with new. what do u think of compression numbers?
 
What does trans ATF look like?
level?
(rad cooler)
----------
How is level in coolant recovery tank?
Is it changing level with cold-hot engine?
---------
 
atf is fine, full and red. smells good too, i drain the pain almost every time i change engine oil.

overflow tank is empty. when it was overheating is was flowing out the overflow on the tank, but as it cooled would be drawn back to the rad. i have filled the rad but not the overflow i will do that and let it get to temp and cool. then i will get back with results. got to go to the store so maybe later this evening i will get back on here. thanks for all the help guys
 
bronc571, I have some bad news--if you can't afford six spark plugs, you should sell it. Seriously, you may just be chasing your tail, those plugs could be the root of the problem.
 
Do not drive it till you find the problem's and fix them PERIOD!

That only creates more problems and it sounds like you are 'bout 1/2 a step from totally wiping out the motor.

-Stop (100%) and troubleshoot it (no guesses!)
-OR- park it (100%) till you can
-OR- sell it.

More damage will only make things worse.

Good Luck,
Orange
 
Do not drive it till you find the problem's and fix them PERIOD!

That only creates more problems and it sounds like you are 'bout 1/2 a step from totally wiping out the motor.

-Stop (100%) and troubleshoot it (no guesses!)
-OR- park it (100%) till you can
-OR- sell it.

More damage will only make things worse.

Good Luck,
Orange

X2....I don't really trust the compression numbers you got 100% either....I thought I had some serious head problems when my old 99 quit running one time due to only having 80psi in one cyl.......then, after I got it running, I ran another comp. test only to find they were ALL within specs. Come to find out, I had washed the cyl. walls so badly with gas from trying to start it, that it had no compression. Once I got it started though, there was a BIG BLACK cloud of smoke that came out too, looked like a diesel truck! That was my clue!
 
is it possible that bad plugs could cause it to over heat? wouldnt bad plugs, misfires, trip a code for obdII?
 
Lots of possibilities but did you perhaps change sparkplug wires or pull the distributor lately?
 
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