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Engine Flush

I would not use a full strength flush like Risoline or such. Just clean the gunk out of the valve cover and of the head(carefully...don't get a lot of junk down in the pan), change oil/filter and add a Qt. of MMO, if you are concerned about dislodging a lot of sludge then just use a pint. MMO will SLOWLY remove "gum" and sludge, for this reason I use a Qt. as
recommended. You can also throw 3 or 4 OZ. in the fuel tank.
I won't get in the oil debate (I prefer AMSOIL), but I have been using Lucas Additive in my wifes 99' Saturn and have never seen it foam as on Bobs Site, and use it in my D35/30 and have not seen it foam there either.
I think we all have our own oil/filter preferences, use what you like, but change often.
 
That test is about the most moronic thing I have ever seen:

ENGINES DO NOT HAVE HIGH SPEED GEARS. Also you don't know what oil that actually was firsthand... What proof have you that he's not just a renegade working for another oil company.

What kind of an idiot end user would actually dedicate that amount of "knowledge" and "expertise" to engine oil. For god's sake people, its not a f***** polio vaccine.
 
chill out duudde

he said it was delo polio boy.

They do have things called "labs" where oil can be "analyzed"

It will show if a motor is excessively wearing, and usually the source of that. ie. fix your junk before it blows up.

21st century
 
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JNickel101 said:
Yes, thousands of people must be wrong....

There are probably twice that many that bought 'Slick-50' too.

Three things to start, shop vac with a crevice tool, selection of plastic scrapers, pan big enough to put the cover in.
Remove cover, turn on shop vac and keep in one hand, pick up scraper in other, work them together, don't miss ANY pieces of sludge, let the vac suck them up as soon as you break them free with the scraper. Make sure you have a good light illuminating the work area.
Submerge the cover in the pan with gas, kerosene, etc, let it soak then clean it out.
Reassemble, change oil with cheap stuff, now you can add some engine cleaner like seafoam or whatever, run it then change it again, for this I would use cheap Fram filters. Once the cleaner starts working it will soak into the stuff and start to break it down. When you change the oil that stuff is still soaked into the build up so it will continue working for a while so watch your dipstick, as soon as it gets to where it's hard to read the writing change the filter. Around about the second one change the oil and put your normal stuff in with a good filter and go from there.
The other way is to start using your own mix of regular oil and synthetic, don't bother with buying the mix, we have no idea of the mix percentage, mix your own, 3 quarts of regular, 3 quarts of synthetic. The synthetic will also soak in to the sludge and start removing it, it will take longer so your oil will get dirty faster and require more filter changes but it will work, also keep an eye on the seals for any leaks.
 
RyanM said:
Supposedly, some show higher. SL/SM means that that passes the new American Petroleum Institutes certification and all that hoo ha for gasoline engines.

The SL's like Rotella(not the new 3way protection cj-4. The Rotella 5w40 I'm using is SYN is SL/Cl-4. The second being for the diesel, can't remember the numbers but I think thats a set 1300ppm zddp and the more recent cj-4 down to 1150? Don't hold me to those. Not sure if they are making new Synthetic rotella, I stock up at walley. The other diesels that are good are delo and delvac. more than enough in the package.

My old reports got wiped out with server crash. I'll try to see if they are on file. and the website that was the best doesn't show the graph of oils that were tested (http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html)

I started reading labels, Mobil-1 has more grades of Synthetic than I realized, they make a high milage one that has the higher zinc content, I bought 10 5 quart containers last month for $19 a container at wally world.
 
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