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Engine cage for Coilovers!

Cache96

NAXJA Forum User
Location
holtville Ca
I was wondering if anyone has done just an engine cage on their jeeps? I am about to start on a rear mini cage to mount my shocks through the rear like this.

jeepbedcage2.jpg

jeepbedcage.jpg


But i also want to start on a engine cage for coil over mounts. I will be caging the entire jeep a little later on, so that being said should i wait until i cage the entire thing and tie in the engine cage or just do the mounts in front something like this?
coilovermount.jpg
 
It is far easier to do it as one continuous project than to do a couple small projects and then try to connect them all together and still make it look good and work well.

Wait until you are ready to do the whole thing.
 
So would an engine cage be better than just those mounts? if i dont have to do the engine cage i dont mind not doing it, as long as i can get the coil overs mounted.
 
I'll be building one shortly, although I would NOT build an engine cage without a cab cage. Jeep body is just too weak.

^^^^What he said.

So would an engine cage be better than just those mounts? if i dont have to do the engine cage i dont mind not doing it, as long as i can get the coil overs mounted.

A HUGE issue with those mounts is that nothing is tying the tops together. Without some type of bracing, those will just twist the "frame" apart.
 
^^^^What he said.



A HUGE issue with those mounts is that nothing is tying the tops together. Without some type of bracing, those will just twist the "frame" apart.

what thjey said. no support =braking and bending.....youll have to plate the unibody right there and make a shock hoop and connect them with an engine cage, ive thought about this too but not up for spendin the money right now hah.

but you basically have coilovers. just get your shock valving right and a stiffer spring like deaver. thats what ill be doing. im going to the t&j upper mounts and a deaver spring and 2.5 shock with stiffer valving.

but before all that or right after you will want to truss your axle too or it will break like mine did. haha
 
well it actually rides nice right now.. just that i wanted to get those coilovers... i will be going with the 2.0's or 2.5s in the back. and i should be trussing both my axles as soon as i get the HP 30 (hopefully this weekend) making my bed cage and rear bumper at the same time,this or next weekend.
 
haha yea... i dont want to have your problem, yea they are being custom made along the bottom not the TOP! lol... i have had my rear bumper off for quite a while now and its time to make one.. they are getting done by a friend of mine, my welder messed up so im going over there..haha.. i will ask him and see how much it would be im saying around 150 around there... ill hook you up.. im making it something like this.

rearbumper-1.jpg

martinsbumper.jpg


that is one he made on the pathfinder.
 
yea it will be a bolt on, maybe bolt on how the stock bumper plate does..

I went to the JY this weekend and picked up a HP30 out of a 96 XJ and a full set of seats from a laredo for 200$. No more leather for me..hahha... i dropped off the 30 with my friend so it can get trussed and cleaned.. i also gutted the inside to start on the rear shock cage and add a rubber or vinyl floor. Going to convert everything that is brown to grey or black.

rear.jpg


There was a bunch of sand underneath the carpet.haha
frontseats.jpg


And the new to me seats.
seats.jpg
 
Here's how I did mine; this wouldn't meet Jeepspeed requirements but it might give you some more ideas to work with.


Starting out:
4246638815_1b51127e2b_o.jpg


Midway:
4268356718_844e9ddc23_o.jpg


4268356796_b1580d1a78_o.jpg


Final:
4329789044_5025c7e462_o.jpg


25014_600852170519_24800499_35031645_2780128_n.jpg
 
Axles are unmodified 1-tons...front is a '82 Dodge D60 (kingpin, passenger drop). I forget the WMS measurement but it's roughly 81" to the outside of the tires.

Full droop is no problem:

17980_591797825499_24800499_34720033_7861427_n.jpg


Limit straps stop it about 1/2" from there (after stretching).

4297308610_a4661848a0_o.jpg


My major limiting factor is the driveshaft angle at the t-case front output...with the low-pinion axle and the t-case (D300) clocked nearly flat, any more droop binds the u-joint.

Here's ride height...somewhere around 4.5 - 5" uptravel.

4255347933_d61b8d33a0_o.jpg


and with springs installed:

4272921169_20634d6ee9_o.jpg


Packaging was fun but it all worked out pretty well:

4273665514_4a5cd0c22a_o.jpg


4374457764_7df2f8ccc8.jpg


few videos...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D-_mJ0Vrhag

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2eBcotrZt-M
 
Sorry I'm a bit late to the discussion... Mine works great for what I do- lots of articulation and some mild jumping (probably no more than 2' air). The engine cage and custom bumper are tied together with 3-point shock hoops. The hoops connect to the unibody on pieces of plating that were welded on. I wouldn't have done it without the bumper tie-in though, and I do plan to go through the firewall and tie into a full cage some day. More pics here.

3_G_001.jpg
 
isn't placing the remote res of the shocks in the engine bay going to kind of defeat the purpose? I mean, it gets pretty toasty in there.
 
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