WebDog
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Center City, MN
Yes, the kit comes with replacement bolts to replace the fan pulley studs.
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Electric Cooling Fan CFM Rating Tests - DirtBound Offroad
- Thread starter WebDog
- Start date
Yes, the kit comes with replacement bolts to replace the fan pulley studs.
WebDog
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Center City, MN
Here is another little video about how I have been running it cooler than 210 and if you think it might have mpg drops increase running hotter.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vbu7H4kXc-E&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vbu7H4kXc-E&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL
srmitchell
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Mckinleyville (Humboldt) CA
Awesome man. Great to see your responding to input!
I'd like to get your kit one of these days, and see if my mpg's go up, due to the reduced power needed to spin the fan.
I'd like to get your kit one of these days, and see if my mpg's go up, due to the reduced power needed to spin the fan.
XJLI
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Long Island, NY
wow awesome job. i'll def be picking a kit up this summer.
WebDog
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Center City, MN
They will be available next week on the site.
Why do you have a fan turn on at 180, and what thermostat do you have?
Mine has 190k miles, stock thermostat (195 iirc), just went to 31s (stock 3.55s), and I only have the stock electric fan. I pulled the mechanical fan almost a year ago and have been planning to add a 2nd stock fan, just haven't yet. The fan only kicks on when I stop and idle a while. On my daily commute I don't think it ever kicks on. I get about 17-18 mpg.
- Location
- Southern Maryland
Watch the video, the one-fan is only enough to slow down the rate that the coolant heats up and isn't enough by itself to cool the engine down. So turning on the one fan early keeps the engine cool longer. It would certainly be viable to just wait for ~210 then turn on 2 fans to cool it down but the 1-fan to slow down the rate of temperature rise is also viable.
srmitchell
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Mckinleyville (Humboldt) CA
Do you live in the arctic? Only 1 fan? Wow. Pretty crazy man.
Little Rock Arkansas. 100F is common. Most of the summer it's hot enough that I'm running the a/c when driving to work at 6am. When your going 40 or more you don't need a fan. I do expect that just the 1 fan would give me problems on a trail ride, probably even in the winter. Like I said, I'm planing to add another.
srmitchell
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Mckinleyville (Humboldt) CA
Wow. That's cool. I wasn't trying to be a dick, I just didn't know you could do that.
No offense taken or imagined. Just making the point that in normal driving you don't need much of a fan (Off-road is a completely different story, and the dirtbound setup looks great. If I wasn't so broke I'd strongly consider it). I had an s10 with a high compression bored-out 350 that I ran for a while with _no_ fan at all. Was fine as long as it was moving, but it would creep up when stopped and long lights really tried my nerves :shiver:.
WebDog
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Center City, MN
I have wheeled with many guys that only have one stock fan, mechanical or electric and they always overheat on the trail. So you must be lucky! I would put it on a switch or cooler thermostat as the stock fan does not kick until 220* and then you gotta figure the heat spike it could be getting around 230* before going down.
Yes that is the idea, and it seems to work great in keeping the temperature stable and not have heat spikes.
Now for a test last week I have been running only two fans, the temps still sit at 180 on the highway with no fans, but in the city fan comes on at 210 and temps go to about 215 before going back down. So it is much more efficient running all three.
- Location
- Southern Maryland
If it was me, I would set the 1st fan at 190/185, 2nd fan at 210/205, and 3rd fan controlled by PCM
This way the 1st fan would start to cool when the thermostat was starting to open, and the 2nd fan would come on when the thermostat was fully opened
This way the 1st fan would start to cool when the thermostat was starting to open, and the 2nd fan would come on when the thermostat was fully opened
WebDog
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Center City, MN
The standard controller is two stage at 185 / 205.
I have never had my aux fans come on when I had the stock setup unless I had my AC on. So it ether never got to 220 or the sensor was not working... I just put it on a switch.
I have never had my aux fans come on when I had the stock setup unless I had my AC on. So it ether never got to 220 or the sensor was not working... I just put it on a switch.
Oh I expect mine would too! I'm not suggestion anyone run with only 1 stock fan! I've just gotten away with it dd'ing and short play excursions :dunce:.
As for temp vs. mpg I think hotter is better. I have no worries with running 220 or a little hotter. I you're going for power then 200 is a fine target. I do notice that I have a little less power when fully hot. I don't see the point in turning on a fan before the thermostat is open. That's just a waste.
Coupla interesting things about a 220* running temp.
Firstly its a hotter temp than the computer activation temp for the aux fan ... and the computer activates the aux fan as an extra - because the basic factory supplied cooling system, is not performing well enough.
220* is only a coupla degrees less than the boiling point of unpressurised 50/50 coolant mix .... So if you're system is not pressurised properly ... or you blow a hose / crack the plastic radiator tank / or you having been topping up with distilled water and thinning the mix down .... or whatever .... Its not such a great running temp
Whilst it may be beneficial in saving you a teaspoon of fuel per tank .... whats the 220* temp doing to gaskets and other bits & pieces under the hood ???
....... but only you will know whether saving a few pennies on fuel ... is really a benefit compared to the cost of early replacement of heat affected sensors and whatnot
As for fuel economy ??? ... I get 310 - 330 mile per tank on a highway run ... whether the constant running temp has been set to 185*, or 195* or 205* ... The slight variation in distance is due to me playing with the loud pedal ... or whatever I threw up on the rack ...
The thermostat housing temperature is not a start point temp .... Its a temp that is a result of cooled liquid from the radiator mixing with the heated liquid from the engine.
Whilst radiator size & efficiency, windchill, driving style and coolant ratios and other stuff all play a part .... Basically ... The longer you delay the fan activation in slow speed situations .... the hotter the running temps will be - as you are not cooling the liquid soon enough to give the thermostat something to play with.
If the radiator is too efficient and over cools an engine below the thermostat rating .... its because the thermostat isnt good enough to meter the flow properly or its opening lower than its rating ... or its been modified with a bunch of bleed holes or something - making it a thermostat of a lower rating than its original design.
WaXJ_Skier
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Bellevue, Wa
With my 5spd I can wheel without an aux fan with very little issue, especially since I added the 3 core CSF. I wouldn't even consider it with my auto DD.
The addition of the aluminum shroud makes this a very appealing upgrade.
Webdog
Do you have any additional mods to your cooling system (pump, t-stat, t-stat housing?)
srmitchell
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Mckinleyville (Humboldt) CA
Good point, the aw4 makes a ton of heat.
keep0njeepin0n
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Beaufort, SC
Will the fans with shroud fit with a CSF 3 core? I've been told the CSF is thicker than OEM.
