EGR question... is this right??

[5-90]

So if I have the one above, one line should go to the deal on the drivers fenderwell, where should the other go? Manifold vacuum or Airbox lid?

There should only be one line going to the EGR valve from the solenoid on the fender liner. That's it. The other line leading into the solenoid should come from the intake "tree" - that funky junction at the front corner of the intake, as I recall.

The lines on the airbox - one should go to the intake "tree" as well (either the plastic junction or the metal fitting with all the branches,) and the other should run along the airbox, going forward to the vacuum actuator (gold-ish coloured thingy on the snout.) Neither of those should go to the EGR.

Are you able to find the VECI label on your firewall (should be in front of the driver's seat underhood,) or has it been removed? That should have a vacuum diagram on it, and it's the best authority for figuring out vacuum on your vehicle. Failing that, someone can probably take a picture of one for you, and send it your way (I don't have one handy - my 1990 in the garage is covered with stuff, and my 88 is in storage. Damned City nitwits...)

 

[AboveNBeyond]

Are you able to find the VECI label on your firewall

No I wish it was there, someone tried to tear it off so like 3/4 of it has been removed...

I found some diagrams online but they are to vague.

 

[5-90]

Ah, ha.

Can someone with a 1989 4.0L take a picture of their VECI for him? Transmission should not matter, and take care to focus on the vacuum diagram, please.

Cell phone pictures would not be preferred - they're usually lacking in detail. I don't have a 1989 anyhow (anymore), so I can't account for minor changes in vacuum wiring...

 

[Matthew Currie]

Well, we'll have to score one for Haynes this time, because they actually have a clear picture. Here is what the valve with transducer looks like. Note that there are two lines between transducer and EGR valve. The bottom one, I believe, connects to the manifold to pick up back pressure. The top one passes vacuum to the EGR when the transducer calls for it. The left hand line is vacuum in, which should come directly from the solenoid.

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The 87 version of the valve has no transducer, and only a single vacuum line running to the diaphragm. If you have an EGR valve with two connections, but no transducer, then someone swiped the transducer.

The solenoid should get its input vacuum directly from one of the manifold fittings, without passing through any other devices except the multi-line connector, and its output should run straight to the transducer (or the 87-style egr valve).

 

[xj88superjeep]

So capping the vac to the transducer will successfully "delete" the EGR? Just want to be sure I should not delete the transducer and cap the lines into the ERG itself. I did disconnect and cap the hose and the port at the driver's fender, and noticed a very slight difference for the better. So if this is a successful delete, I will eliminate the hose and cap the transducer itself. Although, for some reason I still want to 86 the transducer and cap the egr vac ports if that will do the same thing.

 

[5-90]

So capping the vac to the transducer will successfully "delete" the EGR? Just want to be sure I should not delete the transducer and cap the lines into the ERG itself. I did disconnect and cap the hose and the port at the driver's fender, and noticed a very slight difference for the better. So if this is a successful delete, I will eliminate the hose and cap the transducer itself. Although, for some reason I still want to 86 the transducer and cap the egr vac ports if that will do the same thing.

Correct - pull the line off of the transducer and cap that (alternatively, just pull the line at the solenoid and put a cap on there - same net effect.)

 

[Muad'Dib]

Oops sorry disreguard this post..

 

[xj88superjeep]

Correct - pull the line off of the transducer and cap that (alternatively, just pull the line at the solenoid and put a cap on there - same net effect.)

I deleted that entire line, and capped both ends. I did a before and after test, and it's definitely better after the delete. Seems to have "almost" fixed the stumble, but I am going to do a computer relearn procedure and watch it for a few days.

 

[AboveNBeyond]

I am going to do a computer relearn procedure

Just curious, how's this done?

Also, I do not have a transducer and have now removed the lines to the EGR and capped the points it connected to the manifold and just unplugged it from the egr deal on the fenderwell.

 

[xj88superjeep]

In my truck, I leave the battery disconnected over night. Some years have different procedures. You have to do a search to find the procedure for your year.

Just an update, after deleting the EGR, and re-adjusting the TPS, my stalling problems are solved, and truck runs great!

 

[5-90]

Just curious, how's this done?

Also, I do not have a transducer and have now removed the lines to the EGR and capped the points it connected to the manifold and just unplugged it from the egr deal on the fenderwell.

On RENIX? It don't care - you can make some pretty heavy changes without having to do a "computer relearn" like you do with OBD...

 

[AboveNBeyond]

Hello again...

Man what a bunch of great responses and help everyone has been. Thank you!!

Here is what I did this weekend...

Removed and capped the lines to the EGR...
While doing so realized now the air box looked like it needed some attention so I removed it, yup I now have a K&N cone type filter mounted via a proper aluminum adapter to the factory rubber tube and it has 2 mounting brackets holding it stable... (Pics will be up tomorrow)

Then I realized that stupid plastic vacuum tree adapter mess thing had more line capped then in use so I deleted it, now all my lines that were in use go directly to their proper places. The only tube I have left if the vapor canister one that went to the airbox, I have a nipple deal ordered that will allow it to be added to the air filter adapter I now have.

Um oh yeah I also had the exhaust replaced 2.25 to the muffler & 2.5 out. Flowmaster 44 I believe it is and it sounds wicked cool.

That was enough for this weekend... lol

Thanks again everyone.

 

[xj88superjeep]

If you don't mind sharing, which adapter did you use for the air filter, and where did you get it? Did the mounting brackets come with it?

 

[AboveNBeyond]

If you don't mind sharing, which adapter did you use for the air filter, and where did you get it? Did the mounting brackets come with it?

I was sorta lucky, I already had this kit from an Acura I had. But basically it is what K&N calls a FIPK, this kit is about $160. but really thats not a bad price concidering the warranty. See if you just buy a cone filter they have only a 1 year warranty. They only give you the 10 year Million mile warranty on OEM filters and these FIPK kits which are their OEM upgrades.

For instance this filter I have owned for roughly 6 years, been stored for 3, it looked dry and a little beat... I called K&N and explained the condition, sent it in and they sent be a new one. Minimal questions asked and no hard time.

Here is a pic of the filter, adapter and brackets...
All I had to do was bend one a little and drilled out 1 hole in the bracket. I then mounted it using one of the bolts holding the fuel rail that is nearest the front drivers side of the intake manifold. I think it looks real nice and seems to fit well. To soon to report back with performance or mileage answers but I can tell you it seems to run and idle fine.