- Location
- sacramento
i posted at the same time you did. as soon as it hit you must have posted the same thing
-
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DW :-\
- Thread starter mdmbkr
- Start date
Lowrange2
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Abbeville, SC
- Location
- sacramento
Hmmm, I posted that at 5:33 this morning.Not sure what happened.
ok. well i think im a little too jet lagged and tired then to really pay attention. either way he needs to get a breaker out and give it hell.
- Location
- Lakeside, CA
SN24B or C works wonders.
Last edited:
mdmbkr
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pembroke Pines, FL
The instructions that come with RE lift kits have a DW section that says less caster is better, is this true?
I'm considering putting in adjustable UCA's, which will set me back about $160, but will also let me adjust the caster.
I'm considering putting in adjustable UCA's, which will set me back about $160, but will also let me adjust the caster.
- Location
- sacramento
When they say less, did they mean positive or negative caster ? too much negative caster can probably cause issues and positive caster in general on a lifted jeep will cause issues. (greater than 10* positive , and get into pinion issues potentially). somewhere in the 4-10* range is a pretty common setup.
mdmbkr
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pembroke Pines, FL
I know this is deviating from the DW topic but .. the RE 3780 UCA's shortest length is 15 1/4 inches, and based on a table I found, that's the appropriate length for a 5" lift. At 3.5" of lift will these UCA's be too long?
mdmbkr
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pembroke Pines, FL
OK guys, since the last post I've done the following:
All 4 TRE's replaced
Durango steering gear with C-Rok brace
RE adjustable UCA's
New UCA bushings in the axle
New front hubs
Rotate & balance
Trackbar bolt at axle end as tight as possible.
Rides better than ever, but still, DW.
At this point, every front end part, other than the axle itself, has been replaced.
I have a theory: the Jeep has been suffering DW for a long time. It's likely that the root cause has been removed, but the ongoing DW has wallowed out the axle end bolt hole. I still need to take the bolt out and examine the hole to confirm.
I've read you can drill out the hole and trackbar bushing to a larger size. I have a drill press. Any advice regarding the particulars of clamping/mounting the trackbar in place so I can drill the bushing would be appreciated.
All 4 TRE's replaced
Durango steering gear with C-Rok brace
RE adjustable UCA's
New UCA bushings in the axle
New front hubs
Rotate & balance
Trackbar bolt at axle end as tight as possible.
Rides better than ever, but still, DW.
At this point, every front end part, other than the axle itself, has been replaced.
I have a theory: the Jeep has been suffering DW for a long time. It's likely that the root cause has been removed, but the ongoing DW has wallowed out the axle end bolt hole. I still need to take the bolt out and examine the hole to confirm.
I've read you can drill out the hole and trackbar bushing to a larger size. I have a drill press. Any advice regarding the particulars of clamping/mounting the trackbar in place so I can drill the bushing would be appreciated.
yossarian19
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Grass Valley, CA
I recently drilled out the rubber bushing in my RC bar. Left it in the bar, just held it "about right" in one hand and operated the drill press in the other.
In another bar, with the poly bushing, I removed the sleeve and gently put it in the vise.
I went 1/2" grade 8, because screw doing it twice.
In another bar, with the poly bushing, I removed the sleeve and gently put it in the vise.
I went 1/2" grade 8, because screw doing it twice.
I would have been checking the track bar bolt/ hole first! I have seen people have the bolt so tight the play doesn't show up in an inspection. Loosen it up until its just snug and do a front end inspection by having some turn the wheel, and look for any slop.
yossarian19
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Grass Valley, CA
and / or remove the bolt, check the hole for roundness. If it's oval, you know that bolt moves.
mdmbkr
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pembroke Pines, FL
Grah, I thought it would be cake to take that bolt out but it's stuck spinning in place. Tried prying on it with no luck.
Lowrange2
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Abbeville, SC
The bolt is more than likely rusted into the sleeve. You can try tons of penetrating oil, heat, pry some more. I ususally just cut the parts out and replace it.
- Location
- Virginia City, NV
I know this seems extreme but rustys makes a replacement axle trackbar mount. Factory location just made from 1/4" instead of the flimsy stock sheet. I had to cut mine out for the very same reason. I needed the trackbar out to replace the bushing but the bolt seized to the sleeve. Even after I cut it out, it took a bfh and about an hour to get that thing out. Kind of a waste at that point as I ended up drilling out everything to a larger bolt size. I am sure going this route will solve you dw. It did for me.
Lowrange2
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Abbeville, SC
I didn't mean to cut the whole mount off. I just mean to cut both sides of the bolt with a cutoff wheel.
mdmbkr
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pembroke Pines, FL
For now I blasted it back on with my impact wrench, as tight as it would get. Now I hear a very small popping sound on tight corners but I haven't yet had DW again. I'm pretty sure the problem isn't solved, but I have some other fires to put out first and need to be able to drive the jeep.
It hasn't even been a year since I installed it, can't believe the bolt is already frozen in there. I guess I'll use antiseize on the next one.
Right now I'm inclined to ditch the RE trackbar from the 3.5" lift, because of the single shear frame mount, and go with a dual-shear mount. The single shear bolt is a huge pain in the d**k to get sufficiently tight, and I don't have a lot of confidence in the quality of the work I did to drill out the stock mount for the bigger bolt.
It hasn't even been a year since I installed it, can't believe the bolt is already frozen in there. I guess I'll use antiseize on the next one.
Right now I'm inclined to ditch the RE trackbar from the 3.5" lift, because of the single shear frame mount, and go with a dual-shear mount. The single shear bolt is a huge pain in the d**k to get sufficiently tight, and I don't have a lot of confidence in the quality of the work I did to drill out the stock mount for the bigger bolt.
