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drop brackets

Thats in the ballpark. Mine sits about 2* lower than the driveshaft angle.

You need to keep in account that changing the pinion angle will change the caster, and you are looking for a balance between the two..
 
Just finished installing my drop brackets today. Done... YES!!!
 
the wheels are still off it till daylight tomorrow but i cant wait to launch off my neighbors skateboard ramp haha :D ...he might not like that to much
 
RCP Phx said:
But a trackbar suspesion needs 3 dimensional movement.The Tera arms are some of the worst out there,they run an extremely hard urethane thats been know to rip the mounts off!Currie "nailed" it as far as "no-binding" goes followed by RE.The JKS arms are quality but still dont really address the issues.
Click to expand...

I have been running these arms on my MJ for about 3yrs. now and havent had one problem...actually plan on keeping them for when i install my DB in the next month or so
 
Ok I got the pasenger side on with out to many problems (not tightened yet). The drivers side is giving me issues with the brace. there is a 1/4 in gap between the brace and the DB. I know you need tention but ...It seams the outer edge of the lower stock CA mount sticks out so the inside cant be flush while the brace is alined with the cross member holes. I dont know if I should grind the brace, the stock mount or drill new holes in the brace for the cross member! I hope this is clear as to what issues I am having.

br1.jpg
 
I had to take a dremel and oval out the two brace holes where the crossmember mounts slightly so that the brace could be slid alittle foward and mate up with the db....alittle gap isn't a big deal because the bolts will draw them together when tightened.
 
I tightened the lower bolts to the poingt that I thought they might break and still had the 1/4" gap. I thought of putting some washers in the gap but thats not a proper install.
 
Here is a suggestion... When you get them all bolted up and installed, tack weld the braces to the unibody toward where they mount under the T-Case mount / skidplate. If you ever have to remove the skidplate or T-Case in the future, those braces will kick inward about 2 inches. They are almost impossible to get realigned with the holes. I had to use hydraulics to spread them and it was still a PITA. A tack weld will hold the alignment of the holes.

Trust me... even if you have to pay someone to do the tack weld... it's worth it!
 
The gap is only on one side of the vertical face of the brace where it meets with the stock mount. I guess I could widen the holes to account for the gap. Really need to remember to get longer bolts for the Xmember! Anyone know the specs on them?
 
Harvo said:
Here is a suggestion... When you get them all bolted up and installed, tack weld the braces to the unibody toward where they mount under the T-Case mount / skidplate. If you ever have to remove the skidplate or T-Case in the future, those braces will kick inward about 2 inches. They are almost impossible to get realigned with the holes. I had to use hydraulics to spread them and it was still a PITA. A tack weld will hold the alignment of the holes.

Trust me... even if you have to pay someone to do the tack weld... it's worth it!
Click to expand...

Gojeep mentioned taping a hole for a bolt. Same results I would think. I will probably weld though. Thanks!
 
XJedi23 said:
Gojeep mentioned taping a hole for a bolt. Same results I would think. I will probably weld though. Thanks!
Click to expand...

That is right. There is a untapped insert that I taped to take a bolt which pulled up that part of the brace flush with the frame for extra rigidity and to hold the braces in place when I have to drop the cross member.
 
Im having a harder time installing these DB than the lift itself. So if my LCA are 16.25" fixed, should my uppers be like 15.375 for a 4.5" lift?
 
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