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Dog Training

mikie2084

NAXJA Forum User
Location
virginia
Im just curious if anyone has any training tips to share. I have an 11month

old red Doberman named Duke. Very intelligent, very active, and very loving

dog. Ive been training him sit, stay, come, since he was a puppy and he

listened well til now. If theres any kind of distraction he wants to investigate

it first and then listen to me. If you have any tips or techniques on

how you trained your dog please share them.


Mike
 
Obediance classes. I have taken the last two dogs that I have owned and would never not do it now. I just had to have my fawn dobie put down in Dec. She was the best dog I have ever had. She went on many jeep outings with us and people were amazed at how well trained she was.
 
bcmaxx said:
shock collar

Only if you want to break its spirit. They work great for hunting dogs out in the field, but a choker and leash work much better for obediance training.
 
That was a joke, do you regularily walk your dog? My year old dog requires a lot of attention,walking and re-training. We have enrolled in obedience classes this september to october. We read alot of books on dogs and dog training ,this helps quite a bit but some info is just wrong and misleading. He will sit,lay down, stay, half rollover, shake a paw, but he sees another dog and he's either braking or chasing.We weren't ready for a puppy and the responsibilities when we got him, but we are happy now
 
I train hunting dogs so here is my advice Obedience training is a good start but 11 months is kind of old to start there are going to be some habits you will need to break.

ECollars are best left to folks that know what they are doing with them I use them all the time but my hunting dogs are trained with them. To them it is a treat to wear the collar as they know something good is going to happen. Ecollars are a training tool best uses sparingly.

At 11 months the pup is starting to push the envelope to see what it can get away with remember you are the top dog not the pup you have to be firm and demand it do what you want when you want everytime. Slip up once and it has learned it can get away with something do it more then once and it is now a habit you will have to break.

You dont have to beat your dog or yell at it to get it to do what you want and never repeat a command more then once. Best to start at the begining with the training and reinforce what you have taught so far. I would put the dog on a long check cord and start with the here command let the dog get out there a ways command here and make the dog come to you by reeling in the cord until it is next to you. Give the dog a treat and do it again keep the training positive and never do it when you are angry.
 
When he was young I never put him on a leash, I wanted him to learn to stay in the yard. Thats one thing I messed up cause he now tries to walk me. We are working on that now, hes fine in the yard but walking down the street is a nightmare for me. He gets plenty of exercise everyday, we run, play ball, ect everyday.
 
I can recommend the book that I used, Gun Dog by Richard Wolters. I've had two great labs and used most of his techniques. I'm into more of a reward v. punishment style training system and this book works well with that. It has been published since the 60's, I guess dog psychology hasn't changed very much.
 
I have been told by many people not to praise the dog after he's done a trick, something right, just a small treat. (a little light at the end of the rainbow)
 
sorry, you have to regain your dominance. when you go outside, you step out the door first. same with coming in. really your just trying to let him think hes second. you are more than likely going to have to start the leash training process. its just easier and to me has faster results. you can have him on a leash sitting next to you. have some kids start playing with say a ball about 80ft away. but dont let him get up. do this for about 15 minutes a day. for 3 days. then gradually have the kids play a little closer. i hope you get the point. the end result should be him sitting next to you with no leash and the kids playing as close as say 8ft.
 
Use your head, dogs aren't really that complex, though they can be frustrating. I tend to study my dogs, reinforce there strong points and damper the bad ones. They all have tendencies and talents.
Dogs and man share many common agendas, some we don't, learning which is which helps understand them better. Dogs aren't people, but we do share a lot of tendencies, parallel agendas.
Simple trick, if you usually walk him on the right. Change to the left, keep the leash really short and use a good bit of force. Be careful, dogs have glands in there necks that can be damaged with too much force.
Lay on top of your dog, a simple dominance game that works on most all of them. Kind of ease into it, until you eventually pin him, so he can't escape. It has the dual benefit of asserting dominance and avoiding problems, like him snapping at a kid if he is inadvertently sat on etc.
I don't use a one size fits all method of training, I try to tailor it to the dog. I had a Shepard that came from German Police dog stock. I trained him to attack shoes instead of people. He wasn't the least bit vicious, but would take your shoes off when commanded to do so.
If your dog isn't a total bone head or the stubborn type, changing the leash to the left and then introducing a new way of doing things, should show good results in a couple of weeks or even days if he is the eager to please type.
All of my hunters are trained to a two tone whistle. One tone is lay down and freeze, the other is return. Cheddar cheese can work wonders.
No matter how physical or stressful the training gets, if you forgive the dog soon after the exercise, they seem to stay well adjusted. Prolonged scolding and isolation seem to cause them damage.
All of my watch dogs have learned not to bite kids or women. They are often sensitive and learn a lot just by how tense you get and by example. It was more training by osmosis than actual training. Very low key and gradual.
After a minor catastrophe with a retarded girl (woman) wandering in yard once and getting chewed on pretty good. I changed my training, they will let you in now, but won't let you leave. :)
The books by the dog whisperer are pretty good. Though I don't often agree with his why explanations, much of his stuff is valid.
Dogs that have a job seem to be the more well adjusted. My son has trained one of my Jack Russels to hit on women for him. :)
 
I use sound and positive reinforcement, Train in short sessions at first and make them longer and longer. As in: Command Sit and if he does give a treat and praise, if not guide him and down and after he does sit say the word sit and lots of praise (associates the word sit with lots of good things). The same can be said with many other commands.

If he has a problem coming back to you, you can use a whistle outside and a clicker inside. Just start training with him in a quiet area to start off so there are no distractions and like before make them longer and bring in more distractions as you go. With the whistle at first just hang out in the back yard and blow the whistle and give him praise and a treat just let him know the whistle is a good thing, then as he wanders away blow the whistle and if he comes give praise and a treat. Slowly ween him off the treats of course, but it's good to have them every now and then.

If he has a pulling problem on the leash I suggest a head restraint. If he pulls it'll pull his head back to either side and he won't like it and he'll start walking at your pace.

If he is acting up, while he is committing the act make a sharp loud noise and look really pissed and serious.
 
Repetition, consistency, finish a training session on a good note.
 
I started using a clicker and he responds very well, if i click outside he comes running and sits beside me. Im going with this for now since it seems to be working better. I think the head restraint idea will also work good for walking. I always give him treats for doing what is asked of him with or without the clicker. Just hope he listens when i do not use the clicker anymore. I had him sitting and staying in one spot while i walked around the yard for about 2min yesterday. Thats very good to me considering i always have a 85lb shadow.

Thanks for the replies.

Mike
 
mikie2084 said:
I started using a clicker and he responds very well, if i click outside he comes running and sits beside me. Im going with this for now since it seems to be working better. I think the head restraint idea will also work good for walking. I always give him treats for doing what is asked of him with or without the clicker. Just hope he listens when i do not use the clicker anymore. I had him sitting and staying in one spot while i walked around the yard for about 2min yesterday. Thats very good to me considering i always have a 85lb shadow.

Thanks for the replies.

Mike

It's a good idea to train them simultaneously to sound and hand signals. Often dogs pick up on one or the other a bit quicker. Both together double your chances of success.
Most of my dogs are hunters, voice commands are a last resort. Nothing spooks game faster than the sound of the human voice. Nothing is more annoying than someone screaming at there dog.
I've never used a clicker, I use hand signals and bird calls in the field, a hunters (two tone) whistle when they are a long way off. I've got four dogs now and in the fall when we go hunting, there are often 20-30 dogs working at the same time. One thing about a hunters two tone dog whistle, they are supposed to be all the same pitch. If one hunter blows recover, all the dogs are supposed to head back to there master, if he blows freeze they are all supposed to lay down and freeze.
 
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