tigerchief
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Dirtbound fans, YJ Brackets, and 3row CSF install.
- Thread starter PRYAPSM
- Start date
PRYAPSM
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Kansas, MO
What about a durango steering box would there any more clearance issues with them? I did notice when I pulled the fan shroud the other day, there was a little rubbing going on from the stock steering box but nothing to really complain about.
And thanks for new fan housing!
I know this is an older thread, but perhaps the poster is referring to your new hose routing behind the AC Compressor... as the Coil Pack on 00-01 XJ's is a very tight fit there.
I'm getting ready to install this kit on my '01 as soon as it arrives so been searching the forums looking for insight.
Here's the best pic I could find that might demonstrate the tight fit of the coil pack... could also cause interference w/the temp control that has to be mounted on the hose that comes off the water pump and into the heater core... but we'll see.
The fans and such fit in an 01 ust fine. I could see there being an issue with the coil packs hitting the relocated alternator, ubt I would think it should clear, as the coil packs are nearly directly below the hose routing for the heat core.
I installed it on my wife's and we went wheeling in Harlan in July with 100* temps.
She's been driving it daily with the e-fan conversion for the last 8 months with no issues.
I set up the center fan on the 190 relay (factory trans cooler sits in the middle), the passenger side fan on the 205* relay and I wired the drivers side fan to the factory harness so the PCM controls it and doesn't throgu the check engine light for fan failure. The PCM fan rarely comes on.
I left them hooked to 12V all the time, so the fans run after shut down to help fight the heat soak issues in the returnless fuel system. They run for 8 minutes in 70* ambient temps after shutdown.
I installed it on my wife's and we went wheeling in Harlan in July with 100* temps.
She's been driving it daily with the e-fan conversion for the last 8 months with no issues.
I set up the center fan on the 190 relay (factory trans cooler sits in the middle), the passenger side fan on the 205* relay and I wired the drivers side fan to the factory harness so the PCM controls it and doesn't throgu the check engine light for fan failure. The PCM fan rarely comes on.
I left them hooked to 12V all the time, so the fans run after shut down to help fight the heat soak issues in the returnless fuel system. They run for 8 minutes in 70* ambient temps after shutdown.
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Thanks for the info 87...
Did you happen to take pics or have a thread showing your install and wiring? I've resolved the heat soak issues w/hood vents and although I thought about running one of the fans w/the key off... I think I'll wire up as per dirtbounds instructions to start with. Now I just have to find my key-on 12v source. Did you run the temperature control f/ DB and if so, did you run it to the upper or lower hose coming off the heater core? I was thinking it should mount to the lower hose, but pics are showing people mounted it in the upper hose. ??
Did you happen to take pics or have a thread showing your install and wiring? I've resolved the heat soak issues w/hood vents and although I thought about running one of the fans w/the key off... I think I'll wire up as per dirtbounds instructions to start with. Now I just have to find my key-on 12v source. Did you run the temperature control f/ DB and if so, did you run it to the upper or lower hose coming off the heater core? I was thinking it should mount to the lower hose, but pics are showing people mounted it in the upper hose. ??
it needs to come off the upper hose, that's the one that comes straight from the head. The lower hose is the return, so it will read a low temp if you run the heat.
I do ave pictures and I was going to do a writeup but haven't goten around to it. Wanted to have it installed for a while before I reviewed it. I'll dig that stuff up this weekend.
Basically I installed a 6 fuse holder block on the passenger side, the flat area right in front of the firewall nearly underneath the hood hinge. I pulled power from the PDC feed with a fusible link and 10GA wire to the fuseblock. The temp controller and both fan relays are powered directly from there, always on.
I installed the relays on the side of the PDC, ran the fan wires up alongside the battery and under the hood latches to the top of the fan shroud and along the upper core support. You have to locate the wire towards the back on top of hte shroud or the hood bumpers will smash your loom.
The control stuff I put in the upper heater core hose just like the pctures here, I ran the control wires up to the AC compresor and then made a 90* turn to te drivers side and into the temp switches.
It's all pretty neat and tidy if I say so myself. Most people don't even see the wires, just the shiny shroud and fans.
I do ave pictures and I was going to do a writeup but haven't goten around to it. Wanted to have it installed for a while before I reviewed it. I'll dig that stuff up this weekend.
Basically I installed a 6 fuse holder block on the passenger side, the flat area right in front of the firewall nearly underneath the hood hinge. I pulled power from the PDC feed with a fusible link and 10GA wire to the fuseblock. The temp controller and both fan relays are powered directly from there, always on.
I installed the relays on the side of the PDC, ran the fan wires up alongside the battery and under the hood latches to the top of the fan shroud and along the upper core support. You have to locate the wire towards the back on top of hte shroud or the hood bumpers will smash your loom.
The control stuff I put in the upper heater core hose just like the pctures here, I ran the control wires up to the AC compresor and then made a 90* turn to te drivers side and into the temp switches.
It's all pretty neat and tidy if I say so myself. Most people don't even see the wires, just the shiny shroud and fans.
LYKOS
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Bent Mountain Va
Did you do this to preclude the engine from throwing a CEL or because it was throwing a CEL?
I have an 01 and a DB Trifan kit I've yet to install. I was considering just adding a resistor to the factory Efan wires to trick the PCM...
I did it to preclude the PCM freakout.
That and I see no reason to have all three fans running all the time. It doesn't overheat with just two. Even on the trail in 100* heat this last July the PCM controlled fan only came on 3 or 4 times and we wheeled all day with the AC on max.
Plus it removes the temp controller and all the aftermarket stuff for at least one fan, so even if my wiring fails my wife still has one fan that's controlled by stock wiring.
It's my wife's DD, so it has to be automagic and redundant or she will break it.
That and I see no reason to have all three fans running all the time. It doesn't overheat with just two. Even on the trail in 100* heat this last July the PCM controlled fan only came on 3 or 4 times and we wheeled all day with the AC on max.
Plus it removes the temp controller and all the aftermarket stuff for at least one fan, so even if my wiring fails my wife still has one fan that's controlled by stock wiring.
It's my wife's DD, so it has to be automagic and redundant or she will break it.
That made me LOL...
Anytime something goes wrong w/any of my wife's stuff, she just hands it over to me and says "fix it!" ... :| Most of the time I can... haI'm not an expert in wiring, so any tips/pics/diagrams as to how you did this wiring would be GREATLY appreciated as my Dirtbound electric fan kit should be here this week and I'm trying to get prepared before the install. Thanks.
I thought I took pictures while I was installing it, but I guess I didnt. I'll snap some pictures but it's not going to be until weds when I'm home during the daylight hours.
I'll be brutally honest, the instructions that came with the kit were severely lacking and I had some frustration about how it mounted and the like.
The wire and relays were perfectly usable, but I pitched all of the crimp on connectors and replaced them with nicer stuff. All my fans got connected with dean's connectors. All of my spade terminals and lugs got fancy glue filled crimp on stuff and then heatshrinked over top of that.
See my comment about wife's dd. She gets pissed when it breaks down, she also drives it like a racecar driver, so I'm all about bulletproof.
I'll be brutally honest, the instructions that came with the kit were severely lacking and I had some frustration about how it mounted and the like.
The wire and relays were perfectly usable, but I pitched all of the crimp on connectors and replaced them with nicer stuff. All my fans got connected with dean's connectors. All of my spade terminals and lugs got fancy glue filled crimp on stuff and then heatshrinked over top of that.
See my comment about wife's dd. She gets pissed when it breaks down, she also drives it like a racecar driver, so I'm all about bulletproof.
87manche...
Just re-reading this thread since my DB kit came in the mail yesterday and I'm trying to prepare to do the install in the next week or so.
Are you saying you wired in 1 of the 3 fans to the OE Electric fan so that the Jeeps Computer doesn't throw a check engine light and it's controlled that way? So the remaining 2 fans are controlled via DB's kit and controller that is inserted into the top heater hose? Just trying to visualize this before I tear my rig apart and then don't have parts I need. (Done that way too many times and then had to get a ride to the parts house f/a friend or wife)
Just re-reading this thread since my DB kit came in the mail yesterday and I'm trying to prepare to do the install in the next week or so.
Are you saying you wired in 1 of the 3 fans to the OE Electric fan so that the Jeeps Computer doesn't throw a check engine light and it's controlled that way? So the remaining 2 fans are controlled via DB's kit and controller that is inserted into the top heater hose? Just trying to visualize this before I tear my rig apart and then don't have parts I need. (Done that way too many times and then had to get a ride to the parts house f/a friend or wife)
87manche...
Just re-reading this thread since my DB kit came in the mail yesterday and I'm trying to prepare to do the install in the next week or so.
Are you saying you wired in 1 of the 3 fans to the OE Electric fan so that the Jeeps Computer doesn't throw a check engine light and it's controlled that way? So the remaining 2 fans are controlled via DB's kit and controller that is inserted into the top heater hose? Just trying to visualize this before I tear my rig apart and then don't have parts I need. (Done that way too many times and then had to get a ride to the parts house f/a friend or wife)
exactly that.
I hacked the factory connector off the factory e-fan and spliced it to the aftermarket fan and hooked it up. The Center fan is wired to the "2" spade on the fan controller (pretty sure of that) and comes on at the lower temperature. I did that because it's where the factory trans cooler lives. The passenger side fan is on the "3" pin and comes on a few minutes after the center fan. the "1" (12V) pin is wired into a fuseblock, it always has power, same fuseblock feeds the relays from two seperate fuses. I'm all about redundancy these days. There's a jumper wire already pre made that is in her trail bag to jump the relays "ON" if the controller fails. Drivers fan is completely PCM controlled and very rarely comes on. Her junk runs 200* according to the dash gauge and very rarely ventures above 210. It does have a completely new cooling system, everything but the heater core is new in the last 6 months. Homie don't play overheating games.
I was going to take pictures yesterday, but we went and got a christmas tree after I got off work and didn't get back from my inlaws until after dark. it's on my to do list I promise.
That makes sense and was what I was thinking of doing as well. That way all 3 fans are independent of one another... so to speak and incorporating the OE Electric Fan controller is a great idea and one I was thinking of doing too.
I paid to have my DB kit pre-assembled, but after opening the box and looking at the wiring it doesn't look like it's all that pre-assembled... but I'll know more when I lay it out in the garage and get ready to install. I'm still waiting on new Radiator Rubber mounts (should be in today) and then I need to find new nuts to hold that on to my New Radiator. Seems I misplaced them a while back and not can't find them.
My debate is whether or not I want to run the Main 12V power to a key-on switch, or leave it hot all the time so the fan can run until the temps drop. I may wire it to key-on first... but we'll see.
Appreciate the pics you're planning as visual always helps me (and others I'm sure)!
I paid to have my DB kit pre-assembled, but after opening the box and looking at the wiring it doesn't look like it's all that pre-assembled... but I'll know more when I lay it out in the garage and get ready to install. I'm still waiting on new Radiator Rubber mounts (should be in today) and then I need to find new nuts to hold that on to my New Radiator. Seems I misplaced them a while back and not can't find them.
My debate is whether or not I want to run the Main 12V power to a key-on switch, or leave it hot all the time so the fan can run until the temps drop. I may wire it to key-on first... but we'll see.
Appreciate the pics you're planning as visual always helps me (and others I'm sure)!
I left hers on all the time so they would run after shutdown to combat the evil returnless fuel system.
If it didn't have the heatsoak issues I would have ran the fan controller to a key on 12V source in the PDC. It doesn't take a bunch of current. You could easily tap into the fuel pump relay or the ASD relay in the PDC and keep it clean.
If it didn't have the heatsoak issues I would have ran the fan controller to a key on 12V source in the PDC. It doesn't take a bunch of current. You could easily tap into the fuel pump relay or the ASD relay in the PDC and keep it clean.
What does "PDC" stand for and where is it?
Just throwing this out, sorta off topic... I had heat soak issues w/my '01 XJ and adding hood vents seemed to solve that issue. That and I added in new 4-hole fuel injectors. You can feel the intense heat coming out the vents during the summertime after a short drive. Another feature to combat underhood temps of the '00-'01 XJs w/that STUPID pre-cat exhaust setup!!
Power Distribution Center
it's what chrysler calls the underhood fuseblock.
I can't go cutting this thing up, that's expressly forbidden. It's very pretty.
I don't think that hers has precats. I've never really looked. It runs good and gets great fuel mileage, so I'm not touching it until it's broken.
it's what chrysler calls the underhood fuseblock.
I can't go cutting this thing up, that's expressly forbidden. It's very pretty.
I don't think that hers has precats. I've never really looked. It runs good and gets great fuel mileage, so I'm not touching it until it's broken.
I understand w/you're saying, but my '01 XJ looks pretty good too and I think it looks even better w/the hood vents. Although if your wife says NO, then I'd stick w/that... ha.
I thought ALL '01 XJ's had the pre-cats, but I've been known to be wrong before...
Here's my '01 XJ
I thought ALL '01 XJ's had the pre-cats, but I've been known to be wrong before...
Here's my '01 XJ
So, you have to hack up the upper radiaotr support a bit:
Her's is relieved enough that I can pull all of the fans without pulling the radiator support. Makes getting to the front of the engine no sweat. I used #10 self tappers with rubber washers to secure the shroud. make sure they're not going to punch through the top of the radiator before you use them
the temp control stuff. I'm probably going to cover this with a larger piece of hose or something because it's ugly. It does work just fine though.
white wires run to relays:
relays pull power from fuseblock
wired to the PDC feed with 10Ga wire and a 14Ga fusible link.
Wires run up following the factory loom past the battery and under the hood latch
right to the top of the shroud
I reused the factory clamps for the overflow tube. You can see where my loom got crushed because I had it running in front of the shroud. The hood bumpers will get it. I moved it behind the overflow tube and it's good.
I still need to secure the loom and some other stuff to tidy it up, but it's been working now for 6 months troublefree. With the new coolig system her Jeep sits halfway between the 210 mark and the hash that precedes it. It hardly ever moves, and the PCM fan rarely comes on. I didn't think to grab a picture of that, but it really is just the factory connector spliced to the dirtbound fan and plugged in. Works just fine.
Her's is relieved enough that I can pull all of the fans without pulling the radiator support. Makes getting to the front of the engine no sweat. I used #10 self tappers with rubber washers to secure the shroud. make sure they're not going to punch through the top of the radiator before you use them
the temp control stuff. I'm probably going to cover this with a larger piece of hose or something because it's ugly. It does work just fine though.
white wires run to relays:
relays pull power from fuseblock
wired to the PDC feed with 10Ga wire and a 14Ga fusible link.
Wires run up following the factory loom past the battery and under the hood latch
right to the top of the shroud
I reused the factory clamps for the overflow tube. You can see where my loom got crushed because I had it running in front of the shroud. The hood bumpers will get it. I moved it behind the overflow tube and it's good.
I still need to secure the loom and some other stuff to tidy it up, but it's been working now for 6 months troublefree. With the new coolig system her Jeep sits halfway between the 210 mark and the hash that precedes it. It hardly ever moves, and the PCM fan rarely comes on. I didn't think to grab a picture of that, but it really is just the factory connector spliced to the dirtbound fan and plugged in. Works just fine.
