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Did Goatman bust a CTM !??

FarmerMatt said:
You have to break eventually when you're trying to keep up with the "Tractor".

Matt

Every dog has it's day. Unfortunately, I'll probably be there to see yours. :D

If you're the tractor, how come I'm always pulling someone's rig down the trail? Crash says mine even sounds like a tractor.....
 
Richard, your's sounds like a 6 cylinder tractor running on 4 cylinders.

If *I'M* riding your tail going up the four lane, it's time for a new engine.

CRASH
 
Tires stuck in cracks or ledges and something will break.

There have been quite of few CTM broken actually. There arn't unbreakable just alot more durable then other u joints.
 
And they are warrantied for 5 years. Try taking your spicer joint back to Kragen for warranty...........

CRASH
 
Weasel said:
Tires stuck in cracks or ledges and something will break.

There have been quite of few CTM broken actually. There arn't unbreakable just alot more durable then other u joints.

Yeah, if your tires get in a bind, the weakest link is likely going to break.

When I got mine apart, I did have marks on the inside of the yokes, so they were hitting. That seems to be the most frequent contributing factor to the CTM's breaking, and the instructions are clear about checking to make sure the yokes don't touch. Mine won't hit anymore when I get it back together.
 
Goatman said:
Yeah, if your tires get in a bind, the weakest link is likely going to break.


Actually if you get one tire under something or wedged in a tight spot so it's not turning and you keep giving it power nothing will hold up. Even if your U joint doesn't go the axle shaft will. The forces are massive!!
 
Goatman said:
Like Mark said, no problems on the street at all. They ride on a film of grease like anything else, very similar to engine bearings. Most of the time the wheels are straight which doesn't move the axle u-joints at all, and in 2wd there is no presure on the front axle joints, they're just free wheeling. On a D44 they don't even move because you run on the street with the hubs unlocked.

Besides they have bronze bushings similiar to most manual transmission pilot bearings.
 
Goatman said:
Mine won't hit anymore when I get it back together.
How are you doing that? I coughed up the coin for Superior axle shafts so I wouldn't have to worry about them, then I saw that the yokes interfere with each other. :(

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First, I rounded off the square edge (just a little) on the inside of the yokes, but that's only on the side that I hasd out. I'll also have to adjust the steering stops.
 
Handlebars said:
How are you doing that? I coughed up the coin for Superior axle shafts so I wouldn't have to worry about them, then I saw that the yokes interfere with each other. :(

The most common failure is people not having the steering stops set right so they touch on turns which binds and stresses the U joint. Some have taken advantage of Jack's warranty. I do not believe there is an advantage to maximizing the turn stop because each side turns at a different angle (due to the offset ball joints and the way it is designed to roll the tire on turns). Since the angles are different this will cause the front to slip and push forward on sharp turns.

I hope those Superiors are ok. I know someone that had some and I think the caps started to spin.
 
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I still find it hard to believe that I kill these things (Warn premium hubs) and a CTM (non-cryo) broke without a hub failure. :passgas:

But Goat is special.
 
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