Dana 44 vs 8.25

[moneypit_k5]

something else to think about is that most gear manufacturers dont recommend running anything more than a 34" tire on a D44 rear, and either 32's or 33's on a 8.25.

you didnt mention it, but IMO the 8.8 is the way to go. It has bigger bearings, gears, housing, tubes, etc over a D44. also there is no carrier break, which means less money during gear changes.

gear manufacturers have no issue with an 8.8 on 35's too.

its easy to find one with disk brakes, and disks will keep your tire on if you break a shaft.

initial cost is MUCH lower than a factory D44 as well. that leaves more money for awesome stuff.

sorry to get off topic.

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

i have yet to see a c-clip fail... usually its the shaft itself.

 

[Letterman]

Connor, there is no reason why the c-clip should ever fail. Don't buy into any claims that a c-clip axle is weaker than a non-c-clip axle due to the c-clips. The c-clips only become an issue after you break a shaft.

Exactly, just as Eric said, it has nothing to do with the c-clip or that the axle is weaker because of the c-clip.

But if a c-clip axle breaks on the trail, you will have to pop the diff cover and drain out the gear oil into something, just to get the c-cilp off the axle to get it out, and to put in a new one. Then put the diff cover back on with some ATV and find a way to put the gear oil back in or always have fresh gear oil with you.

On a side note, I have seen a few Dana 44 ring and pinions blow up with a detroit locker and 37's on the street. Get on the gas on a turn with all the traction on the street . . . something else to think about.

 

[connor0770]

Connor, there is no reason why the c-clip should ever fail. Don't buy into any claims that a c-clip axle is weaker than a non-c-clip axle due to the c-clips. The c-clips only become an issue after you break a shaft.

True, So if i break an axle shaft on the trail I cant just put in a new shaft? I have to remove the diff cover and do everything that letterman said?

something else to think about is that most gear manufacturers dont recommend running anything more than a 34" tire on a D44 rear, and either 32's or 33's on a 8.25.

you didnt mention it, but IMO the 8.8 is the way to go. It has bigger bearings, gears, housing, tubes, etc over a D44. also there is no carrier break, which means less money during gear changes.

gear manufacturers have no issue with an 8.8 on 35's too.

its easy to find one with disk brakes, and disks will keep your tire on if you break a shaft.

initial cost is MUCH lower than a factory D44 as well. that leaves more money for awesome stuff.

sorry to get off topic.

I have thought about going the 8.8 route, but i have heard i would be getting myself into a lot. Plus my lug pattern would be different correct?

Exactly, just as Eric said, it has nothing to do with the c-clip or that the axle is weaker because of the c-clip.

But if a c-clip axle breaks on the trail, you will have to pop the diff cover and drain out the gear oil into something, just to get the c-cilp off the axle to get it out, and to put in a new one. Then put the diff cover back on with some ATV and find a way to put the gear oil back in or always have fresh gear oil with you.

On a side note, I have seen a few Dana 44 ring and pinions blow up with a detroit locker and 37's on the street. Get on the gas on a turn with all the traction on the street . . . something else to think about.

My goal is to spend the money now and have a safe axle that can get me off the trail even if i have a broken shaft.

 

[1990JEEPXJ]

yes you will have to remove the cover the get the axle out and replace it, c-clip or not.

the 8.8 swap doesnt seem to be too difficult. weld on perches and shock mounts. run brake lines, adapt e-brake, get a flange adapter for the driveshaft. the bolt pattern is the same

just get an axle that you dont have to worry about breaking a shaft. if youre thinking about sticking with 35's and maybe 37's. id say the 8.8 with some alloys and a full case locker would be strong enough

 

[hadfield4wd]

yes you will have to remove the cover the get the axle out and replace it, c-clip or not.

^^^Agreed

There is nothing about a c clip axle that makes it weaker. No matter what you should carry spares. If you break a shaft the thing has to come apart to get any of the parts out. So much misinformation about a c clip.

 

[banderso]

I think for the money you would spend getting a D44 you would be better off to put some alloys in the 8.25 and have a very durable axle. The 8.25 has thicker axle tubes buit is still c-clip. The c-clip thing is not a big deal unless you break an axle shaft, which seems to be not very common on an 8.25. Disk brake upgrades for an 8.25 are readily available as are lockers. The ring gear on a D44 is slightly bigger but rarely is there a R&P failure on an 8.25. IMHO you are better off sticking with the 8.25.

Aren't locker options for the 29 spline 8.25 just Detroit or ARB? Aussie is out of stock and I was under the impression it's been like that for a while and will be for a while more (also, it's $50 more than the Aussie for the 44). If a lunch box locker is all you need, it seems to me you'd be money ahead with a 44.

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

there is also the power trax for the 8.25 bjorn... still a little pricy but proven.

the OP said he had both axles didnt he?

 

[banderso]

Ah, wasn't aware of that. Looks like it's $120 more than the Aussie for the 44. So depending of the prices of the axles, it would probably be close to a wash. Powertrax and 8.25 might come out a little better.

Walt, we need to get together again for some wheeling.

 

[connor0770]

No I don't have both axles. I am now considering a possible 8.8 swap. Although I have been considering going to 35s max.

 

[Gaius]

I run both, blinged out D44 on the TJ with 35s, semi-wheeler XJ with the 8.25 on 31s. If I were to pick one, however, I would run the 44. Lots more aftermarket options, and Alloys shafts are real cheap. Plus the 44 has a little smoother bottom with a lot less lip. Shafts are stronger with the 44. Gear setup is easier on the 8.25. Same disc brakes available for either.

Of course, the 8.25 will probably be a lot less money to start, and that's always a consideration.

 

[moneypit_k5]

Im very happy with my 8.8. i put a $250 lockright in it, 4.88's, and I have about 750 into a locked disk brake 4.88 geared axle that is stronger than a D44. And I was paying retail for stuff. I havent broken a shaft yet, and I run one of the more modified Xj's on naxja.

what you want is a 1996-up explorer 8.8. it will have disk brakes, 31 spline shafts, and a 7/8" cross pin. the junkyard is full of 1996-up exploders too.

150 axle
250 locker
100 gear install kit
250 yukon gears

 

[Letterman]

yes you will have to remove the cover the get the axle out and replace it, c-clip or not.

That information is completely wrong! 1990JEEPXJ is ether lying, completely mistaken, or just uneducated about the information that he was just posting about.

I have replace countless numbers of Dana 44 axles, Dana 30 axles, and other non-c-clip axles on the trail, and in the driveway with-out pulling the diff cover. No dropping gear oil, no re-sealing the cover with ATV, and trying to reuse the gear oil!

A c-clip axle you MUST pull the diff cover to get the center pin out, to push in the axle and remove the c-clip, to remove the axle, Broken or not. On a non-c-clip axle you do not have to remove the diff cover to get the axle out.

Educate yourself and don't listen to the ignorant!

 

[Letterman]

^^^Agreed

There is nothing about a c clip axle that makes it weaker. No matter what you should carry spares. If you break a shaft the thing has to come apart to get any of the parts out. So much misinformation about a c clip.

Misinformation?

Why would you have to pull the diff cover on an Non-c-clip axle to remove it? :confused1

 

[Gaius]

Misinformation?

Why would you have to pull the diff cover on an Non-c-clip axle to remove it? :confused1

To get the broken stub out, most of the time, yes, you do.

 

[96XJ9705]

To get the broken stub out, most of the time, yes, you do.

+1 Unless it falls out and you can snake it out of the tube.

Personally I'd put on better shafts and a disc brake. Then the shafts will hold up, and the brakes hold it in. ZJ parts aren't that hard to find for the disc swap.

 

[Letterman]

To get the broken stub out, most of the time, yes, you do.

No.

Maybe only sometimes if you have a center pin carrier or locker, when the axle part gets so jacked up that you can't use a magnet. But most the time a good magnet will pull the part right out:

But with lockers like the ARB or Aussie you can pull the other side and use a long punch.

I have broken lots of axles, and have been with lots of people that have broken lots of axles, and pulling the diff cover is just way too much of a PITA!

Most the people I run with pull out the hammer and want to fight before even thinking of pulling the diff cover!

 

[KJurasek]

Depends on what you are going to do with the XJ. I myself have put a lot of research and investment into the rear axle upgrade issue. I went with a HP D44 up front and a full float D60 in the rear with 35 spline shafts. But now I am dealing with another problem---weight.

Now for rock crawling the above is great, but on HWY?? Not really. Looking forward on my next build (possible MJ or XJ) I would go with either a reinforced (trussed) D30 up front and trussed D44 in the rear, OR a HP D44 front and a Ford 9" rear. Both are much lighter than the setup I have now.

The D44 is a better than the Chy 8.25 but it will only go so far.

Question is...how hard do you want to wheel or is it a daily driver?

 

[Rainman]

another point for the 8.25 is both axles are the same length. So if you do the sort of wheeling where carring spare axles are prudent then that is an advantage.
you could always just put the 8.25 in while running 33" then truss it when going up to 35"s (same for the D30). This is my plan - however in australia the XJ d44 was never available. However 35" is the limit.
If the prices I saw previously were correct you can get a 8.25 with cro mo axles for less than/ = to a stock XJ D44?

 

[Mrfixit]

The 29 spline Aussie's are becoming available again, mine will be here Tuesday