Daily driver drivetrain opinions needed...

[Yucca-Man]

how did you know he has 29 spline shafts? what year did they change from the 27s?

Original post says it's an '01 Sport. The changeover from 27- to 29-spline occurred very late in the '96 model year.

 

["Wolz"]

O.K. good stuff thank you, let me throw a curve. What if I went to 35's, what would need changed to make the d30/8.25 halfway reliable?

 

[bj-666]

What's wrong with that?

x 2
i'm locked front and rear on 33's 6" and it's my dd o yea i drive more than 10 miles a day with frost heaves that blow out tires and i love every second of it!!!
o yea i guess i could answer a question while i'm here

O.K. good stuff thank you, let me throw a curve. What if I went to 35's, what would need changed to make the d30/8.25 halfway reliable?

even on 33's you'll end up going thru a few joints on the 30 depending on how you wheel. if you were to go to 35's that is about the limit of the 30/8.25 there are many people that wheel with bigger tires on a d35 but that doesn't make it a good thing 33's -35's sould be ok if you are light on the gas and rember what you are working with. i wouldn't consider alloy shafts in the stock axles MABY the 8.25. with 35's carry spares for all four corners and you should be good just get good at taking it apart and putting it back together so your buddies wheelin with ya don't get too mad when you break.

o yea if you don't break it your not trying hard enough

 

[Rawbrown]

THe problem with the 8.25 is that your limited to 4.56 gears. on 35" tires youll be yearning for more power. necasary upgrades in my book to keep your axle somewhat reliable on 35 meats...
swap your stock rear shafts with either Yukon or superior shafts.. they are made from 1541h alloy which is about 25% stronger than your OEM shafts. in the front I suggest either CrMo shafts with full circle clips and 5-760x joints or at least having your stock shafts machined for full circle clips. THats one of the biggest killers of front shafts is loosing a clip and having the cap come out.

 

["Wolz"]

Thank you for the feedback, I will stick with 33's for now and see what happens.

 

[rangerjoe2001]

Yeah, but all I ever hear is the RE full-packs sit an inch higher than advertised. So I figured that in the rear i would have around 5-5.5 out of the 4.5 packs and in the front I would use the ACOS setup with the 4.5 coils to level it out and have adjustability for future.

i like the re 4.5 with acos in front.. thats what i have

 

["Wolz"]

i like the re 4.5 with acos in front.. thats what i have

How come?

The ACOS starts out as 1.25 in lift, why not just use a spacer, are you running a heavy bumper or are you looking for future adjustability? If not why not just go with a spacer and lower cost? This is where I am up in the air.

 

[rangerjoe2001]

yeah well the acos is for future adjustability.. also i have a heavy bumper up front..

 

[basalt51]

Thank you for the feedback, I will stick with 33's for now and see what happens.

You haven't given us a very good idea of the type and amount of wheelin you'll be doing, but it doesn't sound like it will be very hard. If you're wavering on whether to go 35's or not, build for 35s. You know you're going to be there eventually so do it right, or you'll spend twice as much in the long run. Get a XJ d44, put in 4.88s and if you really want to try 33s first then get 33s. When they wear out you'll have saved enough money for the 35s and alloy shafts.

DD - 120+ miles/day for 2 years - 4.88s,33s Loved it. and yes, 120 is more than 10.

 

[wescam]

Wolz,

I just purchased an 01, and am pretty much planning exactly what you are talking about. Same lift. 32s, TW SYE/CV, 4.56, daily driver, etc.

I'm not very good with mechanical stuff yet, so either I have to learn fast, make friends or pay serious coin (probably a combination)

I agree that 4.56 with 32s is the way to go, and I've read that opinion from several others.

As far as lockers, I'm still reading up on that.

Good luck and keep us posted.