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D30 WJ Brakes Steering Setup?

it depends on your rims and how much BS you have now. I had 3.75" BS with some cragar soft 8s and barely had to grind anything on the calipers. I jsut drove around , it sounded like hell, come home, take off tires, look at calipers, see where they rubbed, and then grind. its pretty straight forward. you wont take much off. Im not sure how many others are speculating, I did this in december. the brakes are Fing amazing. My new tbird brakes on my front 44 seem about as good...
 
Proud of me guys? Hahaha.

In the rear do I just drill the ZJ backing plate out to get the bleeder screw as high up as possible or what? I'm talking about the four bolts that hold the backing plate onto the axle.

Oh and should I have to tap on my axle shafts in my rear d44 slightly to get them to fit correctly?

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I'm pretty sure you have to change the bore on the ID as well as the bp on the end of the axle tube(w/ the ZJ setup) but I believe the explorer setup is a bit easier to adapt to the 44. There are plenty of threads on here check them out..
 
I'd move that pan-hard bar up to the top notch on the axle side.. you want the Pan-hard/Drag-link to run as parallel to each other as possible
 
clean4drxj said:
I'm pretty sure you have to change the bore on the ID as well as the bp on the end of the axle tube(w/ the ZJ setup) but I believe the explorer setup is a bit easier to adapt to the 44. There are plenty of threads on here check them out..
Click to expand...

Hmmm. I was just going to redrill the bolt pattern on the ZJ backing plate to get it to line up with the end of the axle tube bolt pattern. I think that should work.

I need to have the jeep driving by Thursday. I'm running out of time.

I don't have time to play the "I think the brakes on a Z42 with the 252 will fit, but make sure it has the offroad package because the urban explorer package with the 256 won't work".

The hardest part is the rear shocks. Some numnut before me decided it would be a great idea to weld all of the shocks on. What a nightmare.


NW-ZJ-SCOTT said:
I'd move that pan-hard bar up to the top notch on the axle side.. you want the Pan-hard/Drag-link to run as parallel to each other as possible
Click to expand...

My axle is perfectly centered with it like that. I honestly didn't even think about bumpsteer. That is the only hole that is drilled out big enough to accept the bolt that holds the trackbar on which is why i used it. (i know i can drill them out, but i figured someone used that hole for a reason.)

I think i'll swap that around when i get more time.
 
VAhasnoWAVES said:
looking at pictures, i think the JKS bracket that your axles have only has 2 holes, correct? i think the angle the pic is taken at may also make the angles look much more different than they are.

take one from strait on.
Click to expand...


Here's a straight on picture. Can't really get a good one because there is no light out there.

 
I need to drive my jeep Thursday. If I can't get my rear brakes working can I just cap them and use only the fronts? They're WJ brakes. I think it'll work until I can figure it out.
 
Kingkong0192, do you have any bends in your tie-rod to clear the dif cover? It looks straight to me.. does it clear dif cover ok?
 
Kingkong0192 said:
I need to drive my jeep Thursday. If I can't get my rear brakes working can I just cap them and use only the fronts? They're WJ brakes. I think it'll work until I can figure it out.
Click to expand...

You are overthinking the rear brakes. Use a die grinder to open up the big main hole to fit over the axle tube stub. I just ground fit, ground, fit .... until it slipped on. Then drill the existing holes out 1/16" bigger. Knockout old retainer bolts, install ZJ retainer bolts. Add longer studs to axle shafts and reassemble the axle ... reclocking the brackets isn't really going to gain you anything and is just going to add time/possibility for problems. Took me a couple hours between chasing kids and paying attention to the wife one afternoon.

Driving without rear brakes is just a bad idea altogether. The e-brake can be left out for now if needed though.

Oh, wait ... you're doing this on the D44? or an 8.25? My bad if it's the D44 as the pattern is completely different and yeah I guess you're drilling anyway. Then there's the axle retainer issue to deal with.

As for the front, I agree with the using the top hole ... the PO likely used the middle due to height differences. You will also need to put a bend in that tie rod to regain full steering.
 
Last edited:
ocean_jet said:
Kingkong0192, do you have any bends in your tie-rod to clear the dif cover? It looks straight to me.. does it clear dif cover ok?
Click to expand...

It is bent. Just can't see it from straight on. There is a bend right dead smack at the diff cover and it clears it perfect. Only hits (and i mean just barely makes contact) with the diff cover at full turn.

Devilfrog said:
Oh, wait ... you're doing this on the D44? or an 8.25? My bad if it's the D44 as the pattern is completely different and yeah I guess you're drilling anyway. Then there's the axle retainer issue to deal with./QUOTE]

Yes. D44. I'm damn near positive i have to redrill the bolt pattern on the backing plate. It isn't even close to a 1/16" off. More like 3/8" or so.

Axle retainer issue it already dealt with. I just need to drill out my backing plates and put them on the axles and slide the axle shafts in.

Here are some pictures of the rear. Should be finished tomorrow.


Click to expand...
 
Nice job and congrats on the new axles!
 
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