d30 vs d44 for 37's and 3.5in of lift...

[jeepme]

WJ wheels are 5x5 not 5x5.5. You might want to check the radius arm C's on the axle to make sure they are not the cast in type.

 

[huntingman2706217]

:doh:

I don't even know where to begin.

First off, the '76 F-150 D44 is a good starting point. Second, if it was more than just an engine fire, check the axle to make sure it is straight and true.

WJ wheels are 5x5. That D44 will be 5x5.5. If you want high steer on it, you'll need different knuckles, spindles, stub shafts.

Keep reading.

5 on 5... duh... thats right... ill double check the axle... dang that means i gotta find a set of wheels and tires to borrow for a bit... lol... i thought i read most people that go with the waggy axles use the ford knuckles and all anyways? why would they do this if they cant use high steer... unless theres a different year model thats better to get the knuckles from?

 

[huntingman2706217]

WJ wheels are 5x5 not 5x5.5. You might want to check the radius arm C's on the axle to make sure they are not the cast in type.

ive read on this... some are cast and part of the tube and some can be cut off... theres a guy down the street i just met his brother but not him yet... with this axle in his XJ... he actually just used the f150 or bronco LCA's instead? i dont see there being as much flexibility in this setup i guess but i dont know i could be wrong... dont know if its a good or bad idea i guess... since its the only one ive noticed like this... lol...

 

[jeepme]

Visit this site and read, read, read, then read again. It will get you on the right path in choosing the correct axle and all the things you will need to do to make it work.
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/web_rs44.html

 

[huntingman2706217]

i read abunch on it... went and looked at that truck this morning and left some money down on it till i can find some wheels and tires to get it home... from what that site says it should be the cast style i guess but in looking at it the wedges looked welded on to me... but hard to really tell unless the control arms get taken off... either way i can make it work... ive seen build where they cut the axle down to the inside of the wedges... giving the factory width again but i want to try and keep it wide if i can... maybe just do like guy did down the street and use control arms from a F150... then theres no problems... but the bed was near perfect and doors and the tranny and all was still good... the motors got alot of burnt plastic all over it the thin valve overs didnt burn up so i would think it shouldbe fine... interiors toast though... lol... for $400 i can part out the rest and make my money back and then some... so i cant complain... plus i got a buddy with a 72 looking for doors and a bed for his 250 that hes restoring...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220569946231&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

 

[Ghost]

76 was weld on wedges. They went cast on outers in 78. Disc brakes started in 76 or 77. 76 is a good starting point if youo want a d44. 9" should be big bearing too.

 

[huntingman2706217]

76 was weld on wedges. They went cast on outers in 78. Disc brakes started in 76 or 77. 76 is a good starting point if youo want a d44. 9" should be big bearing too.

yeah 76 was the first year of disc... but like i said just looking at them with the control arms still on i swear it looked like almost 2 pieces of angle iron welded on... but either way ill make it work... hope its the 1/2 thick walled tube... that would be sweet... didnt see any tags but would be nice if they were the 3.92 gears also... we will see... gotta get it to the dang house first... need to research the trannys and transfer cases in there too and see if there worth a dang...