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D30 Pattern check

The gears are all done. Set the pinion preload, swapped the setup bearings for the finals and slapped it all together.
I've heard of people having problems with setup vs. final bearings not holding the same pattern but mine did. Backlash stayed spot on and pattern looked the same.

Now for the rest of it.
 
on a similar note, i have a dana 44 which i'll be swapping the lockright locker out for an elocker. i will be reusing the gears in there. do you guys think i'll have to reshim the pinion if i'm not pulling it out? seems to me that i shouldnt have to since i'm using the same ring and pinion, as long as i set the backlash properly.
You will not need to reshim the pinion. Don't even remove it if you are not changing gears. Take note of the backlash before you remove the old carrier and set it for the same backlash with the e-locker.
 
This pic says alot,always pull a full pattern of the entire gear.Even with the best gears available there is always run out in the gears or carrier.

Agreed, my Ford Racing 8.8 gears were all over the place. I must have ran over 50 patterns before I gave up. I mean felt comfortable haha. FYI it runs quieter than the stock gears did.

The most recent pattern looks good, you don't need to worry about the coast side of the gear teeth, the drive side is what you need to worry about and it looks good.

(Rear compared to front) Doesn't one run on the coast side and the other on the drive side? I thought I recall reading that multiple times when I did my gears. All the information still hasn't soaked in yet.
 
I'm not sure I understand your question. You can get a pattern from both sides of the teeth but the drive side is the one that matters MOST.

FTFY.
I had a diff (untouched by me) that whined on the coast. It's not as bad as whining on the drive side, but it sure wasn't enjoyable.
 
I'm not sure I understand your question. You can get a pattern from both sides of the teeth but the drive side is the one that matters.

A rear axle compared to a front axle, I read, while moving foward one gear set contacts the coast side and the other contacts the drive side. It does sound wrong but that is why I'm trying to clarify.

Looking at pictures recently, I've seen both in front axles. I guess the reverse cut for HPs is the difference.
 
A rear axle compared to a front axle, I read, while moving foward one gear set contacts the coast side and the other contacts the drive side. It does sound wrong but that is why I'm trying to clarify.

Looking at pictures recently, I've seen both in front axles. I guess the reverse cut for HPs is the difference.
The front runs on the coast side in 2wd but the amount of pressure on the teeth is minimal. I would have no concern for a very slight noise from them in 2wd but they should not make much noise.
 
There is a lot of misinformation in some of these posts. The coast side absolutely does matter. Your pattern will work but is very close to the edge of the teeth. If you look very closely, you can see a slight etch in the teeth created by the manufacturing process. It is good to try and get as close to that as possible. Just my 2 cents.
 
There is a lot of misinformation in some of these posts. The coast side absolutely does matter. Your pattern will work but is very close to the edge of the teeth. If you look very closely, you can see a slight etch in the teeth created by the manufacturing process. It is good to try and get as close to that as possible. Just my 2 cents.
Unfortunately, you're also contributing to the bad info...He's close to the edge on the coast side, but perfect on the drive side...trying to adjust the coast side will only result in the drive side going to the edge. Backlash is what effects heel-to-toe pattern, and if backlash is in spec, then the heel-to-toe pattern is what it is, and isn't really adjustable.

Quoted from the Yukon install manual:

"IMPORTANT PATTERN INFORMATION:

The pattern's position to the tooth face (ridge) and flank (valley) notes the pinion depth.
Disregard the pattern's position to the tooth's heel (ring gear outside diameter) or toe (ring
gear inside diameter).

Gear patterns change from heel to toe, but in most cases an ideal heel-to-toe pattern is
impossible to achieve. Furthermore, the housing itself influences the heel-to-toe pattern
and the pattern cannot be changed without machine work. Trying to obtain a pattern centered
exactly between the heel and toe usually leads to frustration and a noisy gear set,
if the face-to-flank pattern is not correct.

Instead, concentrate only on the position of the pattern and how it relates from
face-to-flank of the ring gear."
 
Unfortunately, you're also contributing to the bad info...He's close to the edge on the coast side, but perfect on the drive side...trying to adjust the coast side will only result in the drive side going to the edge. Backlash is what effects heel-to-toe pattern, and if backlash is in spec, then the heel-to-toe pattern is what it is, and isn't really adjustable.

Quoted from the Yukon install manual:

"IMPORTANT PATTERN INFORMATION:

The pattern's position to the tooth face (ridge) and flank (valley) notes the pinion depth.
Disregard the pattern's position to the tooth's heel (ring gear outside diameter) or toe (ring
gear inside diameter).

Gear patterns change from heel to toe, but in most cases an ideal heel-to-toe pattern is
impossible to achieve. Furthermore, the housing itself influences the heel-to-toe pattern
and the pattern cannot be changed without machine work. Trying to obtain a pattern centered
exactly between the heel and toe usually leads to frustration and a noisy gear set,
if the face-to-flank pattern is not correct.

Instead, concentrate only on the position of the pattern and how it relates from
face-to-flank of the ring gear."
X2 Unless the coast side is so out of whack that I believe there is another problem I don't bother with it. The drive side is what counts.
 
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