I have a 90 4.0 and i have a cooling questions for you guys.
I just changed the radiator to an aluminum one and changed the thermostat to a 185. I noticed the other day when i was driving that my temp would only get up to about 165 or 170 and no more then that when i am driving. It will get up to about 190 when i am stopped and then the thermostat will open and cool it back down. befroe i change the thermostat it would be at 190 on the road.
1/... Is it normal to be running that cool when i am driving?
2/... What temps are you guys running at while driving?
Congratulations .... arty:
You must have the worlds best XJ cooling system ...
1/... Its typical for a "stock" XJ to run at 200 - 210 with a factory style operation thermostat and cooling components.
2/... 195'f ... at ambient temps of 40' through to 110' ... on & offroad ... with a
proper 195' thermostat ... and a few other minor changes.
Your vehicle ????
a)... Auto with in-tank radiator heat exchanger for the gearbox ?
b)... Aircon condenser fitted in front of the radiator ?
c)... Fan system still stock ?
This new aluminium radiator ????
A piddly little stock type, factory replacement - or some "
special" heavy duty unit ?
You should have just used a normal 195 degree thermostat...
X 2 ...... Until you found what temps you were running at with the new radiator .... and then change the thermostat if required for your driving conditions.
The ECU doesn't enter "closed loop" (fuel injection pulse duration calculated off sensor readings) mode until it sees the engine get to 170 degrees or so. So if your engine remains cooler than that, or in that range, the ECU will simply continue hosing your cylinders down with as much gas as it thinks it will ever need to get the engine running. If you smell your exhaust you'll be able to tell. This can probably also reduce the lifespan of your catalytic converter.
Whilst I agree that 170' is a fairly
minimum temp suitable for a general purpose engine to operate at ...
... how does this
washing of the cylinder walls work without causing flooding symptoms with the engine ???
All those extra gallons dont cause fouling of the plugs or anything ???
Apart from START & WOT .... Isnt open loop the "WARM UP" cycle ??? ... any engine is "warmed up" well before 170' I would think.
In fact the fault code for a "too cold" engine relies on a temp of about 20'f I believe .... ???
Is there any
verifiable tech data to show that OBDI systems dont change from open to close loop until 170' ....
.... something like a chrysler tech bulletin ... or pic
similiar to ... an OBDII scangauge showing OBDII closed loop at 65'f would be much appreciated ..... :cheers: