Coolant Temperature Sensor Part Number

[surreyxj]

I have an '89 XJ with a '92 MJ engine in it. While replaceing my control arm bushings I broke off the coolant temperature sensor that is installed to the left side of the engine block, about the mid-point and just above the oil pan lip. Does any body know what part# this is?

I searched and found 33004281, but I have also seen that part installed in the t-stat housing and listed on the rear of the head.

I am confused and cannot find concrete information that says ..."this part number for sure"

The link below shows a picture of the sensor location. Any help would be greatly appreciated as the local parts store don't know either.

 

[sharq]

go pull one from the junk yard. no part number needed and much cheaper.

 

[92DripCherokee]

http://www.xjjeeps.com/tech_reference.asp?section=2&ID=0

you have the right PN

 

[surreyxj]

Thanks for the speedy replies guys. Much appreciated. If the parts store charges too much the junk yard was my next choice. I would prefer a fresh sensor though... when it comes to cooling, this thing needs all the help I can give it :jester:

 

[Muad'Dib]

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=DEM&PartNumber=TS10139&Description=Coolant+Temperature+Sensor

 

[Saudade]

Where did you get the diagram from? It shows an exh manifold from the Renix engine (your '89). The Renix rigs has a knock sensor located where you describe but the diagram doesn't show it. The CTS is behind the engine mount so I can't see how you would have whacked it doing the bushings.

 

[ParadiseXJ]

Where did you get the diagram from? It shows an exh manifold from the Renix engine (your '89). The Renix rigs has a knock sensor located where you describe but the diagram doesn't show it. The CTS is behind the engine mount so I can't see how you would have whacked it doing the bushings.

X2 - that is a Renix diagram and if you have a 92 engine, it's not a Renix (unless I'm woefully mistaken). So you should have the sensor in the t-stat housing for the ECU and the sender in the rear of the head for the gauge/light. That may be why you're having a problem with finding the right part.

 

[Muad'Dib]

Where did you get the diagram from? It shows an exh manifold from the Renix engine (your '89). The Renix rigs has a knock sensor located where you describe but the diagram doesn't show it. The CTS is behind the engine mount so I can't see how you would have whacked it doing the bushings.

I didnt read the description .. thanks for pointing me to it..

To the original poster, the sensor that you describe that is right above the lip of the oil pan is the knock sensor... which is not shown in that diagram.

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=ECH&PartNumber=DKS111&Description=Detonation+%22Knock%22+Sensor

The part above will look different then the one you broke most likely... dont worry, the part above is what you need. Its also the only other part that looks like it takes a fuel injector plug.

 

[surreyxj]

Yeah okay I see the confusion. I went and bought the listed coolant temperature sensor and of course it is not what I need. I see now that it may be the knock sensor. The engine is from a 91 or 92 Comanche ... not sure which as it was swapped before I bought it.

So, I started having severe boil over problems right after I broke it and assumed from the symptoms it was a coolant temp sensor.

Here's the deal ...

I stuffed a piece of heat shielding up next to the block to protect it from the flames while burning out the front axle bushing. When I pulled the sheild away I guess it hooked the sensor and broke off the end clip.

I drove it to work the next day ... ran fine, no problems, but when I came out after work I saw the stream of coolant underneath it. I checked the bottle and the fittings and I though it was weeping from the coolant return line that dumps into the bottle and I drove it home (about 10 miles).

When I got home I checked it and sure enough it's raining coolant underneath. All the fittings were good but the cap was venting boiling fluid and the bottle was close to bursting. Almost as though there is no circulation. Again, I assumed the sensor I broke off was coolant related and I started my search for a replacement.

So, if it a knock sensor, would it cause the same symptoms? Will the Jeep run right if it's broken - completely disconnected? THat part I don't get - other than drastic boilover, there are no other tangeable symptoms.

Edit: The picture ... It's not the same engine as I have, but it was the only thing I could find that showed the rough location of the broken sensor.

 

[surreyxj]

Here is a picture ... taken from under the front end, looking rearwards and upwards

 

[sjkimmel99]

did you remove and replace the radiator cap some time during diagnosing the sensor? Could be it's not seated properly and holding pressure which would allow coolant to fill the overflow & beyond.

.

 

[surreyxj]

No rad cap ... it uses the original closed system.

 

[Jeremy89XJ]

No rad cap ... it uses the original closed system.

sounds like some mated an HO to a Renix cooling system... lol, that can't be pretty...

I'd suspect the t-stat, radiator, or water pump, however, you may want to think about upgrading to the proper cooling system for your HO motor.

 

[Muad'Dib]

Here is a picture ... taken from under the front end, looking rearwards and upwards

That is definetly the Knock sensor.

did you remove and replace the radiator cap some time during diagnosing the sensor? Could be it's not seated properly and holding pressure which would allow coolant to fill the overflow & beyond.

No rad cap ... it uses the original closed system.

Just because you have the closed system, doesnt mean you dont have a cap that you dont have to worry about. The Closed system has 1 big fault in my opinion, and that is using a plastic bottle with a plastic cap. Your cap or the bottle could be old or cracked and need to be replaced. Or, the hood could be hitting the cap, (which is another common problem) causing the threads on both the cap and the bottle to spread apart making it almost impossible to get the cap tight.

sounds like some mated an HO to a Renix cooling system... lol, that can't be pretty...

I'd suspect the t-stat, radiator, or water pump, however, you may want to think about upgrading to the proper cooling system for your HO motor.

I would disagree with this, but then again i prefer the closed system compared to the open system. The only reason in my opinion to even consider the switch is if your already in a spot where you need to replace the radiator. If not, keep the closed system and get a decent coolant bottle (from the dealer) or one of the metal ones that you can get from Macs Radiator.


To conclude, it sounds like you have two seperate issues. One of them (the coolant loss) is probably a seperate issue that happened to pop-up at the same time as the knock sensor breakage. The knock sensor retards timing to prevent engine ping/knock. If its broken you may not even notice a difference, but it is best to get it replaced so that IF you do start getting some slight ping/knock the ECU can correct this behavior to the best of its ability.

 

[Jeremy89XJ]

I would disagree with this, but then again i prefer the closed system compared to the open system. The only reason in my opinion to even consider the switch is if your already in a spot where you need to replace the radiator. If not, keep the closed system and get a decent coolant bottle (from the dealer) or one of the metal ones that you can get from Macs Radiator.

guess I aways found the open system to cool better with less issues than the closed. I agree that a properly functioning closed system works great but when my old '88 would screw up, I was without a truck til I could get a new bottle or whatever had failed. I've converted 2 renix rigs to a open system and all cooling probs went away.
Personal preferance I suppose... :greensmok