• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Colorado B/S Thread

Re: The Colorado BS thread

Be heading to the Wal-Mart vision center today I have that familiar feeling I had when I got steel in my eye in 2013 ... feels like something is in there and when I go out in sunlight it feels like something is poking my eye. It's not as bad as when I got rusty steel in there in 2013 my entire eye was blood shot red this is just very umcomfy .
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Hey guys,
Does anyone know of a good local place to find left hand drill bits? The big box stores don't readily carry such items. Ide like quality ones if some place sells them.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

They sell to anyone but the drive between shops so you'd have to find one. Not easy to do.

Did you break a bolt? The left hand bits really only work if the threads are clean (like you rounded a bolt off maybe). I've used them but usually end up just drilling the bolt and using an extractor.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

I want to replace my steering wheel with a new wheel and quick release hub...the question is since I've never pulled a wheel with air bags ...can I just toss the air bag and bolt up the new stuff ? I've yet to pull the wheel I guess when I do it will become clear what I can or can't do ...lol
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

I'd assume the airbags are already disabled, so you should just have to remove the air bag and then the steering wheel. Should be pretty standard after that. The hub and adapter will add some length to the column. Just something to keep in mind.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

They sell to anyone but the drive between shops so you'd have to find one. Not easy to do.

Did you break a bolt? The left hand bits really only work if the threads are clean (like you rounded a bolt off maybe). I've used them but usually end up just drilling the bolt and using an extractor.

I didn't break anything lol, but broken is what I'm up against. Front exhaust stud Inside the block, harmonic balancer has a removal bolt flush in it
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Most of your extracor sets will come the reverse drill bit but as previously stated the full bit itself generally won’t get the bolt out. You need to drill/extract it.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Most of your extracor sets will come the reverse drill bit but as previously stated the full bit itself generally won’t get the bolt out. You need to drill/extract it.

All those years I have been doing something wrong! Then again, my extractor sets were obtained second hand, without drill bits. Somehow, I managed to center and drill a hole without damaging threads.

When I was purchasing for the railcar repair shop, I did get a left hand bit by mistake. When I asked that vendor who used left hand bits, the answer was "some manufacturing/machine shops that have specialized equipment, that requires both RH & LH bits."

Learn something new everyday!
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

By most I mean the cheap ones you find at ACE hardware and similar. None of my SnapOn or Matco ones came with bits of any kind.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Yeah, the diesel is leftover from when I was going to do the CJ6 instead. The Ford AOD has better gearing than a 700r4 so for streetability I was going to go that route, which I’d already ordered the eng/trans adapter for. Once I decided to go full buggy (at my g/f’s recommendations) I had to figure some other drivetrain options. The C4 with the AA short adapter will be the same length as a TH350 and while not as common is every bit as strong. NP205 is heavy as hell but with the NWF black box will be the same length as the 4 speed Atlas I was going to go with and significantly cheaper.

The diesel is going to be interesting but I’ve been a diesel mechanic since I was 17. It’s a very simple and reliable engine that will make plenty of torque. Guys are getting almost 300 ft/lbs with a simple turbo and adjusting the stock injection pump. Mechanical pump and mechanical shut off means no electrical stuff to deal with other than the starter and electric fan. This engine will also easily stay cool with a CJ2 sized radiator. Worst case though I’ll just need to swap the torque converter and flex plate out and I could bolt a 302 to the drivetrain no problem. So if I find I don’t like the diesel in the buggy I’ll do that and reuse it in my Willy’s truck with a Ford M5OD manual transmission.

And yeah, I’m kind of a Ford guy so I wasn’t going to go LS regardless.

Yeah, I think you'll regret going the diesel route to be honest. Unless it was something like the new 2.8, not worth it. You'll have the torque, but you'll also find yourself with little instant wheel speed...which in a buggy is paramount. From what I've found on that motor, it's not small (physically or weight wise).

Personally, I'd also ditch the Sterling rear. I've known plenty who have gotten then, and they all ended up either not running them, or swapping them out for a 14B later.

I honestly have no cares about "brands". Hence why an LS would be a swap I'll consider at a later date. There's a reason they're extremely hard to beat. A 5.0L (Coyote preferably) would be an option, though I'll stick with an LS over that personally.

Another route I've looked at (not that any of this would be happening ANY time soon), would be one of the newer V6's such as the LV3. Smaller, lighter, and still ~300HP.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Why no sterling? I’ve seen plenty of folks running them and having no issues. Bolt in 35 spline, (37 spline pinion on later years) disc brakes and way better clearance than the 14b.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Do any of you folks have any exhaust manifold/ header recommendations for the 4.0, or are they all a crap shoot?
Reviews are limited on today's offerings
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Engine is 140lbs lighter than a 5.3 LS truck motor. It’s 10” shorter top to bottoms, almost 4” shorter front to back including its bell housing (I’m not using that), and 5” narrower. That’s with accessories compared to a truck motor.

4 speed transfercase will hopefully allow for wheel speed, although that’s my biggest concern obviously. Like I said, I can bolt a 302 V8 up to my drivetrain no problem if I don’t like the diesel in the buggy.

And yeah, I’m with Mike on the Sterling. No need to shave it and have almost the same ground clearance as a shaved 14 bolt and 35 spline shafts factory. It’s a plenty stout axle for my purposes. It also only cost $120 so it’s not like I can’t change direction. Ultimately I want a custom 9” housing in the back, but that’s money.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Engine is 140lbs lighter than a 5.3 LS truck motor. It’s 10” shorter top to bottoms, almost 4” shorter front to back including its bell housing (I’m not using that), and 5” narrower. That’s with accessories compared to a truck motor.

4 speed transfercase will hopefully allow for wheel speed, although that’s my biggest concern obviously. Like I said, I can bolt a 302 V8 up to my drivetrain no problem if I don’t like the diesel in the buggy.

And yeah, I’m with Mike on the Sterling. No need to shave it and have almost the same ground clearance as a shaved 14 bolt and 35 spline shafts factory. It’s a plenty stout axle for my purposes. It also only cost $120 so it’s not like I can’t change direction. Ultimately I want a custom 9” housing in the back, but that’s money.

Why no sterling? I’ve seen plenty of folks running them and having no issues. Bolt in 35 spline, (37 spline pinion on later years) disc brakes and way better clearance than the 14b.

I do concede, that giving a quick google look, aftermarket support for the 10.5 has come a long long ways in a few years.

There are a couple reasons I, and others, still tend to prefer the 14B.
1.) The pinion is larger
2.) The pinion support greatly helps with deflection
3.) Removable pinion
4.) Slightly stronger ring gear (or as thought).

I will say the 10.5 does have the beef, comes with discs, more clearance stock, etc...so it does have that for sure. For a few I've known..a little too much beef actually. Big and strong is great to have, but at a point it starts to be a negative. Again, depends on they type of buggy you're going for. A 1tonxj style buggy, no difference there :lol:. Trying to shave some weight where you don't need it...yeah.

As far as motor, I thought the Kubota was rated around 400lbs. dry, no accessories? I know a 5.3 comes in around 450-500ish. But, again the hp/lb. ratio is vastly different. Though, I take ALL weights with a grain of salt, because in reality they're all skewed, and I've yet to see any REAL data provided.

Your dimensions are smaller than the one I looked up, not as big as I thought. I've got a while before and engine swap ever becomes something. In reality I could see myself going with a newer model V6, since these days they're lighter, and have damn close the same hp/tq numbers as the base LS motors stock.

Though hell...the killer RedDot rigs run farkin' 6.2L's...soooo yeah.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Yeah the new 10.5 and market coming with them is nice. I learned to quit watching full throttle v8 guys and they parts lists a little bit ago because it’s just not me. Simple v6/v8 and just easy to run is where I’d like my next ‘big’ build to go. But who knows when that will be.
 
Back
Top