Clayton longarms vs. Clayton 3 link

[AwesomeXJ]

the only other issue I see with the 3link system is the upper arm runs between the front drive shaft and floorboard. I already knew i needed to modify the tunnel for top clearance. but won't my down travel be compromised by the drive shafts close relation to the upper arm? I want super flex. but the way it looks is if i run my passenger side tire up really high it will cause the upper arm to travel down and make contact with my front drive shaft.



EDIT: Nevermind I was looking at the pic wrong. ya that looks like a better system as far as it not binding or unloading but still looks like it is limited in the total drop distance. though not needing limiting straps is good.

 

[Gaius]

the only other issue I see with the 3link system is the upper arm runs between the front drive shaft and floorboard. I already knew i needed to modify the tunnel for top clearance. but won't my down travel be compromised by the drive shafts close relation to the upper arm? I want super flex. but the way it looks is if i run my passenger side tire up really high it will cause the upper arm to travel down and make contact with my front drive shaft.



EDIT: Nevermind I was looking at the pic wrong. ya that looks like a better system as far as it not binding or unloading but still looks like it is limited in the total drop distance. though not needing limiting straps is good.

That's the problem in designing a proper 3 or 4 link in the front. The separation needed at the frame is too much when suspension companies run them all the way to the crossmember. The proper way without SERIOUS mods is to run midarms. Goatman had it right years ago.

Here's a pic of my TJ showing the separation at the frame. Once I stop fiddling with the TJ (probably never) I'll be getting rid of short arms and doing the XJ.

And there is no problem with droop. It'll go as far as you let it.

 

[Darky]

the only other issue I see with the 3link system is the upper arm runs between the front drive shaft and floorboard. I already knew i needed to modify the tunnel for top clearance. but won't my down travel be compromised by the drive shafts close relation to the upper arm? I want super flex. but the way it looks is if i run my passenger side tire up really high it will cause the upper arm to travel down and make contact with my front drive shaft.



EDIT: Nevermind I was looking at the pic wrong. ya that looks like a better system as far as it not binding or unloading but still looks like it is limited in the total drop distance. though not needing limiting straps is good.

I'll say it for a third time...My 3 link flexes enough that I NEED limit straps. To stop the flex. Because I can unseat the coil by about 4-5 inches running 12" (maybe 14", can't remember) Bilstein short body shocks. Radius or 3 link, you will have plenty of flex. You will want limit straps on both. Mine is the Rock Krawler. I've never wanted for more flex, never hit the driveshaft, never hit the floorboard, never had binding.

 

[robsjeepxj]

Being that the driveshaft and upper CA are both moving along the same plane at the same time I doubt this will be a real issue. We're talking about cherokees here not tube buggies. You will bottom out the shock long before you get that much compression or extension for that matter. Proper bumpstopping, shock length and either limit straps or suck down winch cable length should resolve most of the issues that you could have. It's all about proper setup.

 

[ktm racer 419]

That's the problem in designing a proper 3 or 4 link in the front. The separation needed at the frame is too much when suspension companies run them all the way to the crossmember. The proper way without SERIOUS mods is to run midarms. Goatman had it right years ago.

this.

no company offers a 3 or 4 link that requires chopping up your floor and putting a link mount in the interior of the jeep. 98% of people would rather sacrifice suspension performance in favor of not cutting up the floor and interior of thier rig.

i did the midarm thing, you dont see it done often for whatever reason, but i love it.

 

[nochance9]

i did the midarm thing, you dont see it done often for whatever reason, but i love it.

Because if short is bad, then long is better than medium right?

It is true that to get proper link separation on a long arm 3 link that your upper link mount would be by your passengers feet. But honestly, if you don't want to fab up your own mid arm, want to stay away from the radius arm, and aren't going to be competing at werock, then you would be very happy with a well built aftermarket 3 link. I'm personally going with the froelich one for my 01 when I get the dough together for it. And his comes with the heavy duty control arm mount you were looking at replacing anyways. (i think)

Edit: x10 or whatever for limit straps whatever type suspension you run with. It's scary when your brake lines become your limit straps....

 

[Darky]

My shocks are my limit strap. Which sucks. RK uses the driverside mount for their upper link instead of the passenger side. It's already there, already beefy, why not?

 

[Gaius]

My shocks are my limit strap. Which sucks. RK uses the driverside mount for their upper link instead of the passenger side. It's already there, already beefy, why not?

They also use crap joints with 3/4 inch shanks that like to bend. Yeah, why not? :helpme:

 

[Starboard M]

From that angle it looks like it would be so easy! I can just imagine what that little rock looks like coming from the bottom. Did you end up making it up or did you have to winch?

Edit: Neve rmind just saw the second part to that climb. Amazing how little help the winch actually had to give.

I ended up getting stuck on my "stock" rear bumper and hitch. Rear tires were not to the wall yet. If you watched the winching video you can see how the winch pulls me to the wall and I walk right up.
So close, and yet so far.

Rock wasnt bad, it was me actually experiencing that unloading for the first time (after 5ish years on radius arms), and almost pooping my pants.

WOW...... I see what you mean about possibly pushing someone over. I just did a bunch of reading about the unloading of radius arms. I also read alot about the 3link set up not binding or unloading. If I can get the same flex out of a 3link and not have to worry about binding or unloading that may be the ticket.

So who has a 3link that can give me a better point of view?

95% of people will never experience the downsides of a radius arm. Yes it does happen, but I doubt most people will ever have it happen to them.

And my limit straps do nothing to curb the killing of bunnies. :tear:

 

[Darky]

They also use crap joints with 3/4 inch shanks that like to bend. Yeah, why not? :helpme:

Oh darn, guess I'll go throw them in the trash. Thank you for warning me.

 

[Gaius]

Oh darn, guess I'll go throw them in the trash. Thank you for warning me.

Should have left them in the trash.

But if you decide to keep them, I have 5 spare bent ones in the garage you can have if you pay shipping.

 

[ktm racer 419]

ZOMGGG


cant delete posts in mod tech i guess

 

[ktm racer 419]

Nobody has mentioned radius arms unloading!! dead bunnies!!

 

[brianglawson]

I cast my vote for 3 link, simply because Im installing a Froehlich 3 link. Me personally, I like 3 links better than Radius style setups, but both are totally functional!!

 

[AwesomeXJ]

well I decided to keep the short arms for now I start building a system this summer.Thanks for everyone's input.