Ceramic Coating for Headers?

[Jeff-97XJ]

I am about to put some new stainless steel headers on my "97 4.0 XJ. The old ones cracked and I have always regretted not getting them ceramic coated due to the heat under the hood after installing the initial headers that were not coated.

My only purpose for considering coating the headers is to reduce the heat under the hood.

Before I spend the $ on ceramic coating, I am asking for opinions about them and if anyone has good or bad experiences with ceramic coatings, I would appreciate knowing that too.

Thanks-

 

[cherokeefan_1]

In the muscle car/drag racing world ceramic coating works great in my opinion. It reduces underhood temps and they seem to cool down quicker so you dont burn yourself on them when doing plug reading/changes. Again that is just my experince with big v-8's producing 300-800+ horsepower in the old chevy and dodge muscle cars. If I could afford it myself I would go that route.

 

[Porch951]

I think it's a good idea on these Jeeps, especially with the underhood temps. However i do wonder if it would make a crack-prone header more likely to crack.

 

[clean4drxj]

I'd do it as well, keep in my your header will still crack with the stock motormounts so until you/if you didn't change them then I would do so.

 

[aintright]

I'd do it as well, keep in my your header will still crack with the stock motormounts so until you/if you didn't change them then I would do so.

uh.... what?

 

[s14unimog]

I've got a lot of experience with stainless manifolds; since I've run more than a few different types of turbo headers on my boosted 240sx. I will say, hands down ceramic coating them is the way to go. I've tried header wrap, leaving them raw and ceramic coating; it's the most reliable and worthwhile treatment. Not to mention it looks awesome.

It will not keep them from cracking though, that's for sure but dude buddy two posts up has it wrong. It's not the motor mounts fault, it's the rest of the exhaust. The only real way to keep them from cracking is a flex section. You need to separate the rigidity of the rest of the exhaust piping from the manifold. It just has too much leverage on the manifold.

 

[Talyn]

What company did you use for the coating?

 

[n1ywb]

turdbo

 

[s14unimog]

What company did you use for the coating?

Classic Powder-Ceramic Coating in Winterville GA.
706-227-2300

 

[ehall]

I found a place in Nashville that does custom coating for cheap, but I haven't tried them yet. Looking to do it for the exhaust on my Cadillac at some point

http://nitroplate.com/

 

[clean4drxj]

uh.... what?

BAD typing skills.. what I meant to say was.. if he doesn't have decent motormounts a big$$$ header will still break no matter what!

 

[aintright]

ok now that makes sense. hahaha

 

[crimsondragon]

Swaintech or none. I only run Swaintech on my crap. I've done my manifold, O2 housing, dump tube and the turbine housing on my old turbo in the Eclipse. Apparently it worked too well. Cooked the bearings in the cartridge by retaining in too much heat.

 

[s14unimog]

^ehhh... I don't know about now. I'm calling oil starvation to the CHRA...

I did it mainly to remove the radiating heat from the stainless manifold. Helped so much on mine that I have no heat marking on the bottom of a carbon hood. I also don't melt couplers after long boost runs.

 

[crimsondragon]

I had the turbo sent back to Bullseye Power. Told me it overheated and told me not to do the coating again LOL.

 

[s14unimog]

a mfg. passing the blame on to something YOU'VE done. Well that's never happened before. I run around 20psi on my 20G and have so for the last 2 years with that turbo; and its been coated the entire time... I'm just sayin.