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caster woes....help!
- Thread starter outlander
- Start date
When I did a solid axle swap on my BroncoII, and when I rebuilt the front axle on my wifes XJ I clamped a piece of aluminum angle to the rotor on both sides with each end protruding about 9 inches in front and to the rear of the rotor, then set level to the world with a bubble type level. Then with the weight of the vehicle sitting on the axle, on jackstands, as close to ride height as I could I simply measured the pieces of angle at the front, then compared to the rear of the angle. Not knowing what to set the toe on the XJ(no manual)I set it at 1/16 toe in, took it to an alignment shop and all they did was center the steering wheel, profess the caster to be 1 degree from being out of spec, passenger side was ½ degree from being out on camber and driver side was perfect.
As was discussed above about the passenger side being longer wheelbase than the driver side,,it is intentional that way, although yours sounds a bit extreme. It is done to make vehicle track straight on US highways that have a crown from center to right side of usually about 2 to 3 inches. I do not understand the theory but if you compare them to a right hand drive intended to be driven on the left it will become instantly clear that this is real.
As was discussed above about the passenger side being longer wheelbase than the driver side,,it is intentional that way, although yours sounds a bit extreme. It is done to make vehicle track straight on US highways that have a crown from center to right side of usually about 2 to 3 inches. I do not understand the theory but if you compare them to a right hand drive intended to be driven on the left it will become instantly clear that this is real.
- Location
- Hesperia, Kalifornia
Gojeep said:
yah your method will get you in the ballpark, but what happens if the wheel is slightly bent?
With spinning the tire and marking the centerline, you take away a bent wheel as a possible problem. Yeah it might be slightly more involved, but the accuracy will be much higher.
I know cause I've done both methods prior to having alignments done.
XJourney
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lynden, WA
jeepdeepfreak said:
The factory has certain points (ie: holes, bolts and so on)that are used for measuring(tramming). Tramming is just using those points to cross measure to find square and/or length. Just basic geometry
Hans
Still a vote for a real alignment. Of course I do all my own alignments at home. So my vote doesn't count.
