mk153smaw
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fort Lee, Va
Well I have the dreaded 'stalling' condition when my rig gets to running temp (185-195ish).
I am writing about the fix while I am waiting for parts to come in the mail.
This is such a can of worms since battle wagon's motor has been modified in almost every system. I have the full Renix system working with an HO head with chevy valves, 2000+ intake, 95-99 exhaust header.
Things already done/thrown at it:
new Crank Position Sensor
new Cam Sync Sensor (or magneto as the auto zone guy called it...?)*** it was the correct part no matter what he called it ****
new fuel pressure regulator (1988 Renix fuel rail... Yes, it works.. odd how so may folks claimed I had to switch to a newer 95+ rail.) I have the HESCO AFR also, but I put the stock on for trouble shooting.
new TPS and adjusted spot on
cleaned out the IAC... going to do it again because I have time
Going to buy a new ECU since it is only $90 at Oreilly's now (wasn't it $600 before? same part number also?!)
new O2 sensor
new 10mm spark plug wires
new distributor cap
in the mail:
new ignition coil
new fuel pump from spectra
I am thinking I have a bad check valve in the fuel pump (original 1989 pump). I disconnected the fuel return line from the regulator and it drained so fast that I could hear the vacuum building as the fuel travel back into the tank! I thought the fuel was supposed to stay put and not back flow? I have an inline check valve on the supply line before the filter and after for less mess when I am changing it.
My plugs are all gapped (stock gap) the same and look normal.
I do have the Ford Motor craft 30lbs injectors that I just had rebuilt and flow mapped 14 May. (30lb @14.9ohm 43PSI) AUS Injection in Phoenix. I have a 5 liter stroker so I went bigger than 24lbs to feed the beast.
I just drove from Phoenix mid may to Virginia and it ran perfect all the way. I get to my destination at Fort Lee and the problem began.
Anyone got any clues/experience while I waste time waiting for parts?
I am thinking that the ECU begins management after warm up and tries to correct fuel pressure? (lowers from max pressure (39lbs) for start to around 31lbs for running)... not verified since I cannot check pressure while driving.
Fuel pressure will drop immediately after I shut down, hence my thoughts on bad fuel pump/check valve.
the lower pressure from pump may be messing with the injector cycle?
Dave
I am writing about the fix while I am waiting for parts to come in the mail.
This is such a can of worms since battle wagon's motor has been modified in almost every system. I have the full Renix system working with an HO head with chevy valves, 2000+ intake, 95-99 exhaust header.
Things already done/thrown at it:
new Crank Position Sensor
new Cam Sync Sensor (or magneto as the auto zone guy called it...?)*** it was the correct part no matter what he called it ****
new fuel pressure regulator (1988 Renix fuel rail... Yes, it works.. odd how so may folks claimed I had to switch to a newer 95+ rail.) I have the HESCO AFR also, but I put the stock on for trouble shooting.
new TPS and adjusted spot on
cleaned out the IAC... going to do it again because I have time
Going to buy a new ECU since it is only $90 at Oreilly's now (wasn't it $600 before? same part number also?!)
new O2 sensor
new 10mm spark plug wires
new distributor cap
in the mail:
new ignition coil
new fuel pump from spectra
I am thinking I have a bad check valve in the fuel pump (original 1989 pump). I disconnected the fuel return line from the regulator and it drained so fast that I could hear the vacuum building as the fuel travel back into the tank! I thought the fuel was supposed to stay put and not back flow? I have an inline check valve on the supply line before the filter and after for less mess when I am changing it.
My plugs are all gapped (stock gap) the same and look normal.
I do have the Ford Motor craft 30lbs injectors that I just had rebuilt and flow mapped 14 May. (30lb @14.9ohm 43PSI) AUS Injection in Phoenix. I have a 5 liter stroker so I went bigger than 24lbs to feed the beast.
I just drove from Phoenix mid may to Virginia and it ran perfect all the way. I get to my destination at Fort Lee and the problem began.
Anyone got any clues/experience while I waste time waiting for parts?
I am thinking that the ECU begins management after warm up and tries to correct fuel pressure? (lowers from max pressure (39lbs) for start to around 31lbs for running)... not verified since I cannot check pressure while driving.
Fuel pressure will drop immediately after I shut down, hence my thoughts on bad fuel pump/check valve.
the lower pressure from pump may be messing with the injector cycle?
Dave