whitneyj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Mayville, WI
Ian's from canada? and here I thought he was from MN.
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Cage Regrets/Likes Dislikes
- Thread starter Starboard M
- Start date
- Location
- Bakersfield, CA
What I would do different. One thing is to not have an internal B pillar hoop. Mine is both intenal and external, somewhat minimal in both, with it all working together, and that part I like. As has been discussed so far in this thread, providing safe head room is a problem for an internal B hoop. Mine is even with the stock B pillar, then angles back after the attachment to the shoulder harness bolts to provide safe head room. It's potentially not as strong as a straight tube, though it gains strength from being attached at the shoulder harness bolt and it's supported by the other tubes to the A and C pillar. Next time I would just do a straight down bar from the roof hoop, easier to do and easy head clearance.
The other thing I'd do is use DOM tubing. I used HREW, and while I'm not too concerned about it's structural strength, it dents easier than DOM. Kind of a bummer to have dented up roll cage tubes afer a couple seasons, and DOM is stronger to resist denting. Of course, a dented tube is weaker, so it can be a strength issue as well as a looks issue down the road. On the buggy I used all DOM, and even used .188 wall on all the outer tubes that would get rock rash. I got big scrapes and gouges in that .188 wall DOM and not even a hint of a dent.
I'd also tuck the cross cowl tube much closer to the body, mostly for better looks. Some of the guys have done a great job of that and they look good. I was so done with building by the time I got to that bar, and the bend didn't come out exactly like I wanted it, but rather than redoing it I just put it on. The challenge is to clear the wipers, and make sure the windshield can be replaced. Mine has much more room than needed.
The other thing I'd do is use DOM tubing. I used HREW, and while I'm not too concerned about it's structural strength, it dents easier than DOM. Kind of a bummer to have dented up roll cage tubes afer a couple seasons, and DOM is stronger to resist denting. Of course, a dented tube is weaker, so it can be a strength issue as well as a looks issue down the road. On the buggy I used all DOM, and even used .188 wall on all the outer tubes that would get rock rash. I got big scrapes and gouges in that .188 wall DOM and not even a hint of a dent.
I'd also tuck the cross cowl tube much closer to the body, mostly for better looks. Some of the guys have done a great job of that and they look good. I was so done with building by the time I got to that bar, and the bend didn't come out exactly like I wanted it, but rather than redoing it I just put it on. The challenge is to clear the wipers, and make sure the windshield can be replaced. Mine has much more room than needed.
- Location
- Lafayette, CA
Richard, I have had those pictures saved on my harddrive for the last 6 years or so. I have always liked the way you did your cage, and it seems like most people (myself included), are taking those ideas and doing it themselves.
Another semi related questions. How are people tying the C/D pillars to the floor. I was planning on doing floor plates, but the fuel hose area is in the way on the drivers side. How big of a plate is required? We were thinking ~6''x6''. Some more pics to help me out.
Another semi related questions. How are people tying the C/D pillars to the floor. I was planning on doing floor plates, but the fuel hose area is in the way on the drivers side. How big of a plate is required? We were thinking ~6''x6''. Some more pics to help me out.
jdxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Springs
I like the looks of that anymore pics of this cage? TIA
Matt, you asked about what we liked and what we didn't like. On mine, I really like what has now become popular with the roof halo and the external A pillar down bars. To me, no sense spending the time and money to build a cage and then still totally screw up the body with a simple roll over. It also moves the A pillar bars much further forward from where they are on an internal cage, helping the overall rigidity, and it makes it simple to run bars forward to the bumper.
I also really like the tube running forward under the front fenders. It still protects the body structure (fenders are cheap) without the ungainly look of a front exo cage, and it works. Mine has been over and that bar on one side took a good load, without it I would have had major fender, innerwell, and hood damage.....and still had minor fender damage. The grill hoop I also think is important, and I'm glad I did it. Besides protecting the radiator, it really helps to tie in the under fender tubes. As we know, structure adds strength and rigidity, so a few tubes does considerably more than adding thickness to the existing frame rails.
I like that all the hoops, A, B, and C, are tied into the body. The A down bars are attached to the cowl under the fenders, and the B and C bars are attached to the shoulder harness bolts. So the whole thing even forward to the bumper is tied together with the body. Adding rigidity and long life to the chassis was a goal as well as adding safety. Since it's possible to protect the vehicle and the people, so sense not to do it.
JeepFreak21
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cameron Park, CA
Another semi related questions. How are people tying the C/D pillars to the floor. I was planning on doing floor plates, but the fuel hose area is in the way on the drivers side. How big of a plate is required? We were thinking ~6''x6''. Some more pics to help me out.
Damn! Those are some good looking welds to that thin sheet metal on the floor!
You probably saw how I'm terminating my C/D pillar into the shackle box. Somebody told me that 36 square inches was the magic number. I asked around some more and the general consensus was that that should be plenty.
Billy
