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Build a d30, Disco or Nondisco?

vintagespeed said:
The seal is green on the metal face. I have one here somewhere.

Why not just call Warn & order one up, they're $12 I think.

-jb

Why order when I can go to NAPA and pick one up. It may anly be $12 but they will probably charge me $5 to ship it and another $5 to touch it.

Then also if I need another one, I know where to go. I'll post the part number when I get it.
 
ChuckD said:
Why order when I can go to NAPA and pick one up. It may anly be $12 but they will probably charge me $5 to ship it and another $5 to touch it.

Then also if I need another one, I know where to go. I'll post the part number when I get it.

Ok then, good luck.

-jb
 
Well I guess it's my lucky day.

Thanks to RawBrown, Google, and Michigan Jeepers Forum!

Here are some part numbers

CR 11800 and Warn 37897

Here are the dimensions:
2.062 OD
1.25-1.2 ID
.25 H

PartsAmerica has both listed for about 7-10 ea. The problem is that they want $5.00 for shipping and it will take at least 5-7 days for ground.

So Mark can you hook me up, :D Let me know if you can get these and then mail them to me. Myabe I can get them by Friday or Saturday would be perfect.

I'll be calling around tomorrow to see if I can find it locally!
 
maybe it's just fatherhood-sleep-deprivation from our 7 month old baby, but i'm having a hard time following this thread...

however, i'm very interested as i find myself in a similar position: basically i've got an '01 XJ w/ the low-pinion "TJ" D30, but have found a high-pinion disconnect from an '88 which i can get for free. i was going to pass on it because i was under the impression that the disco was weaker. obviously i can swap all of my internals (or whatever is necessary) from my '01... so should i jump on this or wait for a non-disco?

if the disco is actually stronger (as it seems like is being suggested here) what is involved besides this warn seal for the "conversion"? are my knuckles the same?

thanks.
 
Last edited:
Inner knuckles and ball-joints are the same and all you would need is a $30 kit from Randy's R&P. It includes two seals and a plate to cover up the shift motor.

As Vintage pointed out, you can keep the Disco outer knuckles, calipers, rotors, hubs and such. Or you can swap all the LP D30 stuff over. You just have to make sure that the knuckles and all that are a matching set from the same year.

It is stronger, maybe, the problem with either HP D30 is that it can flex at the pumkin and loosen up the backlash on the R&P. Too much backlash and you ruin your gears. Trussing helps, as well as a very thick Diff cover like the OX Locker one or the Crane. Both are very think and help keep the pumpkin form twisting.

I was ready to throw away the Disco axle also, but I have found that it is just as good if not better.

Congrats on the New-born, I have two myself! :confused1
 
ChuckD said:
Inner knuckles and ball-joints are the same and all you would need is a $30 kit from Randy's R&P. It includes two seals and a plate to cover up the shift motor.


thanks... is this kit from Randy's in addition to the seal you found (above) for $7, or would it include it as well?
 
Update on the seal part number!

The CR 11800 is a bit too big, you could probably make it work but you will have to grind out the inner tube a little.

This seal should just tap right it, 11771/40576S CR SEAL

Also, the 91' disco axles may be machined for the standard carrier seal. We found this out talking to a 4WD shop, who at first sold me the wrong seal. Then I found out that its a 60's CJ5 has a front axle seal.

HTH everyone!
 
Lazy Gary trussed his. He's got pics, I think.

CRASH

Edit: My vote, beef up the passenger UCA mount on the non-disco and call it good. My old thirty disco took on a distinct bend where the tube pressed into the disco housing. As with Vintage, mine was ridden hard and put away wet.
 
CRASH said:
Lazy Gary trussed his. He's got pics, I think.

CRASH

Edit: My vote, beef up the passenger UCA mount on the non-disco and call it good. My old thirty disco took on a distinct bend where the tube pressed into the disco housing. As with Vintage, mine was ridden hard and put away wet.


I'm polishing up mine really good! Gary isn't so Lazy, he cut and shipped me truss parts. Isn't he just the coolest! I ask Matt to help with the welding to the cast pumkin and UCA mount.

So to clarify your bend, it was from the UCA out? Or between the Disco UCA and pumpkin?
 
Both tubes, right at the disco housing.

Temper my comments by remembering that I like air under the tires.

CRASH
 
Nay said:
It doesn't matter which turd you polish. Flip a quarter. :D

Nay

I like to think of it as "advanced turd polishing"

LOL

r@m
 
Any one have more info on this D30 truss that was mentioned? Would like to see more on that.

r@m
 
NON disco axles are less prone to bending. When a disco axle bends, it's usually at the disco motor housing (or whatever you wanna call that thing) where the axle tube presses in. It's a weak point.

The real question is, what are you gonna replace the axle with? If you're replacing the entire axle in a year with a D44 (or whatever), just put together what's easiest & cheapest with parts out of the junk yard- don't even waste your money on lockers or alloy axles. Grab your tool box and head on down to U-Pickum. If you're building a killer D30 then use the non-disco axle housing and just build it up while destroying the 'yard part disco unit. Either way, you'll be money ahead if you keep your foot light while the temp axle is in place and spend the saved green on your real axle
 
ChuckD said:
I try to post some pictures of the truss pieces after I clean them up a bit. Then I will also trace them and try to find a way to scan them. They are not very big.

That would be great. Don't bother with the tracing if it is too much bother - I just want a general idea of how they go on and what they are trussing.

r@m
 
strap.jpg


Here's Gary E's that is welded on. He has a piece horizontal to the tube, between the pumkin and UCA mount. There are two other small pieces that go from the knuckle to the spring perch and UCA mount.
 
MMIXJ said:
if the disco is actually stronger (as it seems like is being suggested here)
um, just from observations from working at a Jeep salvage yard, this is what I see when wrecks come in.

the disco axles will bend more or break the disco housing into pieces. the non disco ones will sometimes deform the pass. side upper mount without bending the axle housing (so weld on a new mount and you're good to go again)

the small shaft that is inboard of the disco IS very weak. I couldn't believe that I broke one on a basically stock MJ runnin 235/75s
 
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