Brakes went out while driving

[Kevinma255]

did the pedal loose presure (go to the floor) or do you just have reduced braking but a good pedal? there are two resoviors in the master are you sure they are both full? what you explained would sound like a rear brake coming apart inside the drum but a rear should not drasticaly reduce braking.

 

[MJCfromCT]

The pedal did not lose pressure, it was like having reduced braking but still a good pedal. The braking ability felt a bit "better" than if you were to turn on the car, but not start the engine, put it in neutral, and attempt to brake after you start rolling.

I bought some jack stands yesterday, will be taking a look at it all today.

 

[MJCfromCT]

After getting the front wheels up in the air, it seems like I found at least one of the issues.

First, I looked at the front driver side wheel:

http://picasaweb.google.com/mjcfromct/BadBrakes/photo?authkey=RLuJcYS8VwE#5222112866298018210

Looks old and rusted, but the pads looked good:

http://picasaweb.google.com/mjcfromct/BadBrakes/photo?authkey=RLuJcYS8VwE#5222112877222273122

However, when I went to the front passenger wheel and spun it around, I heard that familiar metallic noise:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_bal_3E4HqU

After taking the wheel off I was able to do this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dOU3JL9jU9k

and this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0rqfz8R0hJ0

...the pads looked decent, I guess:

http://picasaweb.google.com/mjcfromct/BadBrakes/photo?authkey=RLuJcYS8VwE#5222113238032014178

So I guess my question now is, when you replace brake rotors, are you supposed to replace the pads at the same time?



...also, what is even more awesome is this:

http://www.recall-warnings.com/nhtsa-content-98V005.html

Description of Defect: The front disc brake rotors can experience severe corrosion if operated for an extensive period in the "salt belt." If the rotors are not replaced, the corrosion can eventually compromise the structural integrity of the stamped steel center hub section of the rotor.

 

[89CherokeePioneer]

Old pads may not bed into the new rotor properly. Plus, it's what an extra $22? I'd go for that.

Don't forget to lube the caliper bolts and sliders when your done!

 

[xjbubba]

My advice is to replace both front rotors and pads. Do it right the first time!

 

[MJCfromCT]

Alright, I'm off to autozone to pick up some rotors and brake pads. Any advice/tips for this job? Is it easy to get the caliper off and the new brake pads on? I already have a c-clamp for if I need to push the caliper back to make room for the new pads.

 

[89CherokeePioneer]

Alright, I'm off to autozone to pick up some rotors and brake pads. Any advice/tips for this job? Is it easy to get the caliper off and the new brake pads on? I already have a c-clamp for if I need to push the caliper back to make room for the new pads.

Very easy. You will need to compress the piston in when your done so the pads will fit over the rotor.

 

[MJCfromCT]

When I compress the piston, should I take the top of the brake fluid reservoir? Also, after compressing the piston, do you need to bleed the brakes?

 

[iwannadie]

When I compress the piston, should I take the top of the brake fluid reservoir? Also, after compressing the piston, do you need to bleed the brakes?

I loosen the bleeder valve when compressing the piston back in. No sense pushing nasty fluid back through the system, press it Out.

I also use Speed Bleeders, makes everything easier I think.

Edit--

I also bleed the brakes fully when I change pads/rotors. I want clear fluid coming out of the front and rear, fluid is cheap and might as well do it while your dirty.

 

[MJCfromCT]

Unfortunately I had no brake fluid so I had to pass on that...the fluid didn't look so hot, so that'll be the next job.

I replaced everything this evening...I would still be out there if it weren't for a kind gentleman who passed by and saw me having problems...apparently with Jeep the brake pads for the left and the right side are unique...so you have a left front, left back, right front, and right back pad.

After that got sorted out things seemed to go smoother. After everything was tightened back up, I went for a drive around the apartment complex, trying out some gentle stops and some hard stops from higher speeds. I noticed a faint grinding noise whenever the brakes were applied...I'm assuming that this is due to the pads being brand new perhaps?

Thanks for your tips, everybody...120 bucks in parts and a pair of greasy hands saved me several hundred dollars if I were to have taken it to a shop.

 

[89CherokeePioneer]

Opening the bleeder would be the best solution-but if the bleeders haven't be opened in a year or more, you run the risk of breaking them off. And yes, the master cylinder cap should have been open (or a bleeder) so that the pressure has somewhere to escape to.

Congrads.

Save the reciept for the rotors, if there was a recall on these and it was never performed they _may_ reimburse you.

 

[FoMoCo]

yowzers!