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Bicycles

Jester99

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Chattanooga, Tn
I need some basic info and what to look for when buying. I am moving to the city in a few weeks and plan on walking and biking everywhere. Unfortunately, I know very little about them except to get on them and ride. About the only brands that I've heard of are Trek, Litespeed, Cannondale, Schwinn, but other than that I don't know what to look for in a bike. I would like to keep from spending over 500 but am willing to go a little higher...
 
i, up until i quite about 3 weeks ago, was a salesmen/mechanic for sicklers bike and sport shop in exiter, PA our to main brands that we carried cannondale and giant so these are the 2 brands i try to sell the most but if ur just looking for a bike to ride mainly on roads for commuting since u were already looking at cannondale on ef there top sellign commuter bikes is called the cannondale badboy i don't know and prices off hand but check out there website an dit c should be one there idk how much your lookign to spend but just remember u'll get what u pay for if this is gonna be somehtign u depand on to get u around on a dayly basis i would recomend spending in the 700-800$ range but it's totally up to u what u wanna spend

also if u have any questions on components or any company feal free to message me and i'll helpu out teh bets i can
 
If you want a MTB, Go Cannondale or Specialized. I own one of each and love them both.
 
Thanks for the replies so far. I am looking for mainly a street/commuter/errands type bike. I wouldn't mind if it could do a light trail here and there either. Zaqsquatch I don't know what MTB means...
 
Go to a good bike shop have them order a Surly Pacer, Long Haul Trucker, or Cross Check frame and have a bike built to your needs. Those frames run 400~500 dollars and a good stout custom build for city riding shouldn't run more than 400 dollars. This should give you a bike that is uber dependable and fun to ride. Try and decide between a single speed and a multigeared bike, few gears equals less to break. . . .

Here's a link to Surly's webpage.

http://www.surlybikes.com/


MTB = mountain bike
 
i ride a cannondale mtb and love it...but check out voodoo mtb if your looking for one of those...and road i would go with giant or trek...both make good first bikes and are alright on price
 
Pick up a copy of Dirt Rag magazine. They have a few things every issue about commuter bikes and other interesting stuff about bicycle culture. Their product reviews are pretty good too.
 
We're certainly all over the radar here. IMO...I would definitely ask around for a good shop in your area. You will be surprised at what 500-750 will get in a bike these days. I'd probably steer you towards a mountain bike (MTB) only b/c it will allow you to explore everything. Yes it will be a bit slower on the road but it will also handle potholes and curbs a bit better than a narrower road tire will. I'm going to assume here that you're not talking about commuting 50 miles a day also. It will also let you hit up any of the trails that I'm sure that area is bound to have.
Obviously you don't know enough to have brand loyalty which is nice I think. For every person that says they love (insert brand here) I can find someone that says that brand sucks balls. If made in the USA is an absolute then you will pay more for that. IMO...it's not necessary. Right now I'm riding a USA road frame and a Taiwanese mtb frame. I hate my road frame (Cannondale) but you'd have to pry my Orbea outta my cold dead hand. Some will push you to get a fixed gear (where the bike won't freewheel...any time the rear wheel is turning...you will have to be pedaling...period). Some will push you to get a singlespeed b/c of less maintenance. I also have a singlespeed but I know how to work on my stuff. Any good shop now days will give you lifetime free adjustments on derailleurs and brakes and such so who cares about maintenance? Again...if it was a second bike maybe I'd think about a singlespeed or fixed gear b/c they are fun if you're into it and fit. If not...you'll really not enjoy it.
In your price range, you should absolutely be able to find something aluminum (and a good butted or double butted tubed frame to boot...I'd ask), name brand suspension (like Rock Shox), and even disk brakes (they will be mechanical and use cables instead of hydraulic but that's fine). Check out all the big name brands (Cannondale, Trek, Gary Fisher, Scott, Specialized, Giant).

To make matters even worse you've also got the 29er option as well. Having 29" wheels vs. 26" wheels was strange at first but for what I needed it for...it was ideal. If you have any questions feel free to ask.
 
Just go to a bunch of shops and ride about 25 different bikes. Different configurations, different brand, options, etc. Buy what you like.
 
riverfever said:
We're certainly all over the radar here. IMO...I would definitely ask around for a good shop in your area. You will be surprised at what 500-750 will get in a bike these days. I'd probably steer you towards a mountain bike (MTB) only b/c it will allow you to explore everything. Yes it will be a bit slower on the road but it will also handle potholes and curbs a bit better than a narrower road tire will. I'm going to assume here that you're not talking about commuting 50 miles a day also. It will also let you hit up any of the trails that I'm sure that area is bound to have. Obviously you don't know enough to have brand loyalty which is nice I think. For every person that says they love (insert brand here) I can find someone that says that brand sucks balls. If made in the USA is an absolute then you will pay more for that. IMO...it's not necessary. Right now I'm riding a USA road frame and a Taiwanese mtb frame. I hate my road frame (Cannondale) but you'd have to pry my Orbea outta my cold dead hand. Some will push you to get a fixed gear (where the bike won't freewheel...any time the rear wheel is turning...you will have to be pedaling...period). Some will push you to get a singlespeed b/c of less maintenance. I also have a singlespeed but I know how to work on my stuff. Any good shop now days will give you lifetime free adjustments on derailleurs and brakes and such so who cares about maintenance? Again...if it was a second bike maybe I'd think about a singlespeed or fixed gear b/c they are fun if you're into it and fit. If not...you'll really not enjoy it.
In your price range, you should absolutely be able to find something aluminum (and a good butted or double butted tubed frame to boot...I'd ask), name brand suspension (like Rock Shox), and even disk brakes (they will be mechanical and use cables instead of hydraulic but that's fine). Check out all the big name brands (Cannondale, Trek, Gary Fisher, Scott, Specialized, Giant).

To make matters even worse you've also got the 29er option as well. Having 29" wheels vs. 26" wheels was strange at first but for what I needed it for...it was ideal. If you have any questions feel free to ask.


http://www.fixedgeargallery.com/articles/lee/lee.pdf

All cyclists are biomechanical gyrators. Fixed gear bicycles
operate under a scleronomous holonomic constraint. Free gear
bicycles operate under a rheonomous holonomic constraint.
Gibberish, yes, but here are two real examples:

Watch Lance climb out of the saddle: he jackhammers the
bottom of the stroke just as every tyro does; this is because
human anatomy of itself cannot rotate the cranks at constant
angular velocity. The presence of a free wheel in the drive
train allows this by decoupling the forward rotation of the
rear wheel from the forward rotation of the cranks. The
effect is not so apparent when the rider is seated, but
riding a freebie, seated or standing, a roadie’s--or anyone
else’s--legs cannot catch up to the rear wheel until the
leading crank is about at two o’clock.

Then watch world class trackies, say the Uruguayan Olympic
team at Alpenrose Velodrome in 2004: their smooth loping
cadence is perfectly even, seated or standing, because their
cranks always are synchronized with the rear wheel; there is
no dead spot at the top and bottom of their stroke. This is a very big deal!

It means that the fix rider can apply force to the crank
wherever she or he chooses, and the human system of optimal
adaptive control soon will figure out how best to do so. The
fix rider can get into the power stroke at 12 o’clock, or a
little before, and so utilize the entire downward stroke for
propulsion. Way strong!

The free rider can apply downward force beginning only at two
o’clock, and so has wasted fully one-third of the downward
stroke. This is not good!

Looked at the other way, the fixer has a 50% longer power
stroke than the freebie, which equates to 50% more torque
and therefore 50% more power at a given cadence. I’m all steamed up.

There is another effect working here.
A cyclist’s legs operate like the two opposed pistons of a
steam locomotive: both generate greater forces at lower
speeds, and maximum force at “stall,” or zero revs.

As a fixed gear rider begins to climb he or she necessarily
slows, and so can apply more force to the cranks. But at
some speed the knee joints protest, and then the rider rises
out of the saddle; this is less efficient than being seated,
but more forceful. Given the 50% torque advantage of riding
fixed, one can climb grades with surprising ease and
quickness this way. Of course a lower gear allows one to
climb a steeper grade either seated or standing; this is a
matter of terrain and ability for every rider.

But a free gear rider has a necessary decision upon beginning
to climb that we fixers do not: way down in torque, she or he
wants to shift to a lower gear, usually several times; the
tendency is to chase lower and lower gears, because the lower
gearing is more than offset by the decreasing torques at the
higher cadence after each shift. Therefore she or he applies
progressively less force to the road and continues to slow.
This process stops only when the rider’s cadence has slowed
enough to regain useful torque in some lower gear; depending
upon the grade, that gear can be far removed from the initial
gear.

(Trained road-racers know about this trap: when beginning an
ascent they shift up a cog or two and stand, staying in the
big ring; when reaching terminal speed they sit, shift to the
small ring and climb efficiently--but not so smoothly and
easily as a fixer in a considerably higher gear.)
Loss of a third of one’s power stroke is a big price to pay

i ride my fixie everywhere. the torque advantage is ridiculous. half the time i don't even realize how fast i'm going because it's so effortless.
 
Thank you...I am aware of the benefits of riding fixed. I still have a fixed road bike and ride it in the off season to develop a better spin. Jester said he wanted to be able to hit light trails as well as getting around. While I have ridden fixed on the dirt, I certainly wouldn't recommend it (or fixed road for that matter) to someone on an internet forum (not knowing them or how capable they are). I've seen some novices both in town and on the velodrome get pretty hurt on fixed b/c they didn't know what they were doing. I would hope that a rider on the Uruguayan Olumpic team would have a clue.
 
Ok after doing alot of research and reading reviews I am leaning towards the Trek 4500. Hopefully I will get to try one out in the next 2 weeks.
 
Jester99 said:
Ok after doing alot of research and reading reviews I am leaning towards the Trek 4500. Hopefully I will get to try one out in the next 2 weeks.

Nice choice. Hope it works great for you.
 
Yeah the only thing is all the reviews consistently say that the fork sucks. Is this easily upgradeable to something better in the future? I don't know much about the interchangeability(is this a word?) of bike parts. It's suppose to be good for running errands, short distances, and light trails. The more I think about it though I'm going to be riding this about 25-30 miles a week because I'm trying to get in better shape also. I'm wondering if my bike should have any "mountain" in it at all. There are paved bike/walking trails all around this city which will be mainly what I'm riding on.
 
it would be cheaper for you in the long run if you purchased something with a good fork now.

Good forx run 250~700 dollars and yes, they make that much of a difference. By getting the fork now, you'll save on the cost of the fork and installation cost too, unless you want to install it yourself.

If you do jump up in price, you'll get better wheels(hopefully), better parts, and a better fork.



With what you're describing to me, I think you should get a cross bike. Cross bike are a hybrid between mountain and road bikes. Much faster on streets, can really be fun offroad or really suck offroad. Very light trail use is suggested, but they come with knobby tires. And a cross bike will cast a little more. Check out that Surly Crosscheck frame, it would make a phenomenal commuter bike.

http://www.surlybikes.com/crosscheck_comp.html
http://jensonusa.com/store/product/BI409G01-Surly+Crosscheck+Bike.aspx

I know this is a bit more than what you're planning on spending, but believe me, the leap in quality is unimaginable. It can be the difference between feeling you spent your money wisely and enjoying it or feeling like you got kind of ripped off. I am in no way saying that the less expensive bike isn't good but the parts on it are much less expensive.

AND the crosscheck is like 3 bikes in 1. You could strip drivetrain off it and have a fixed gear, you could have it decked out with pannier racks and go on a long haul trek, you could put fenders on it and have a city bike, or you leave it alone and just have fun! Ok, that's more than 3. . . .
 
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Jester99 said:
Yeah the only thing is all the reviews consistently say that the fork sucks. Is this easily upgradeable to something better in the future? I don't know much about the interchangeability(is this a word?) of bike parts. It's suppose to be good for running errands, short distances, and light trails. The more I think about it though I'm going to be riding this about 25-30 miles a week because I'm trying to get in better shape also. I'm wondering if my bike should have any "mountain" in it at all. There are paved bike/walking trails all around this city which will be mainly what I'm riding on.
I ride a mountain bike almost every day when Im at college. I never have a problem getting where I want to go, and if I want, I can go onto the dirt paths and not worry about blowing tires.

It sounds to me like you are a pretty new guy to biking. Road bikes have pretty small tires that like to get sucked into cracks, holes and all manner of things (in my limited experience). How many times have you seen a roadie on the side of the road changing a flat while you drive by? I know I see it at least once a weekend if the weather is nice. Point being, those are the guys who seem to know what they are doing, and they still get flats. As a beginner, I would think a blown front tire would be then end of the beginning. Personally I would get a bike with a wider front tire.


Also invest in a good lock, or expect that bike to be gone overnight.
 
I bought a cheap Chinese mountain bike about a month ago.

~$300 got me dual disk brakes and front suspension. All the bolt on stuff is Shimano and other known names. Aluminum frame, doesn't weigh a thing really. I probably paid too much for what it is, but hey, that's the local market.

I wouldn't spend more than that on something I was using for banging around a city. You'll come out one day after work and it'll be gone. Get an "expensive" bike for your work out or touring bike if your want. Go cheap on the appliance.

Just something to think about.
 
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