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Best penetrating lube?

Kroil, the stuff is magic and doesn't smell like Gorilla piss (PB Blaster)

kroil also doesn't burn as bad if it splashes in your eyes :doh:

my preference is kroil, then pb, then lucas 3 in 1 oil, then liquid wrench (sucks), then wd40 if i really have no other option.

WD makes a good lube for hinges and metal on metal stuff like that but its a terrible penetrating oil and does nothing to rust or corrosion.
 
Yeah, I wanted to get the most effective stuff so I could go ahead and start living the parts i am replacing.
 
kroil also doesn't burn as bad if it splashes in your eyes :doh:

my preference is kroil, then pb, then lucas 3 in 1 oil, then liquid wrench (sucks), then wd40 if i really have no other option.

WD makes a good lube for hinges and metal on metal stuff like that but its a terrible penetrating oil and does nothing to rust or corrosion.

WD is cheap, which is nice. and its good for stuff you don't want to rust, but doesn't need very much lubrication or penetrating.

I spray it on brake rotors if I am storing them and stuff that I don't want rusting, but might sit out for a while. cleans off easy too.
 
^ X2, WD40 is great for protecting stuff and temp fixing of squeaks, that's about it.

PBBlaster is great if you want to dissolve styrofoam cups but not so great if you want to actually loosen stuck bolts. These two abilities are not in any way related and their use of it in marketing is rather disingenuous at best.

50/50 acetone/atf and kroil here. Or I just heat the hell out of the female part and put dry ice, ice, or water on the male part. Got a unit bearing race off the spindle for a 92 honda accord once with a hammer, screwdriver, snowbank worth of ice, and two propane blowtorches because I was stranded at the shop unless it got done that night.
 
I've used Kroil,PB Blaster and many others.....None of them work very well on anything more than surface rust.
 
I like PB blaster when I am spraying things on a vehicle or outside, it smells horrible, does well with rust and grunge and works as a good hand cleaner mid-project too.

WD40 I keep around because its always so cheap and doesn't smell as bad, good for the grunt work around the tool bench. I really like the new built in straw caps, I need to try and re-use the cap and get rid of all the tiny straws.

Lucas toolbox buddy is what I use around the house for hinges and other junk, it seems to just work better than WD40 on those things. Plus, I tend to make it a guilt purchase when I am dumping used oil off at the parts store.
 
Seafoam deepcreep is pretty good too. It is designed to be used with heated parts. I think it draws into the heated area better.
 
WD is cheap, which is nice. and its good for stuff you don't want to rust, but doesn't need very much lubrication or penetrating.

I spray it on brake rotors if I am storing them and stuff that I don't want rusting, but might sit out for a while. cleans off easy too.

Kerosene or Diesel fuel works just as well for stuff like that. (old farmer trick)
 
Nobody's mentioned my very favorite, Würth Rost Off, bought a couple cans when I needed a couple extra dollars' worth of stuff to get free shipping on an order of German car parts. Kroil is a close second. Unfortunately I don't know a store that sells either :( I've started using ATF/acetone just because I've read the comparison and it supposedly actually works better and is cheap but don't have enough experience to develop an opinion yet - but it seems good so far.

I agree with all the comments that WD-40 is better than nothing, but that's about the nicest thing you can say about it. In a pinch if I had motor oil or ATF laying around I'd probably thin it with whatever I could find and use that rather than use the WD-40.
 
Im pretty sure a stern staring is just as effective as wd-40 on stuck bolts.

I keep going back n forth between kroil and PB blaster. It usually just depends on which is closer at the time. Either with some heat will free anything.
 
This is more a trick than a product, but you can
heat up the bolt with a propane torch and then
touch a candle to the threads. The candle wax
will be drawn into the stuck area and will
work as a penetrant.
 
I really like Lets-go. It's made by rectorseal. In my experiences it works better than kroil even. It's kinda hard to find though, we get it from our HVAC supply store (RE Michel). Might literally be the best smelling stuff ever too, it seriously smells like cookies lol
 
Is everyone here ordering aerokroil from the kanolabs website? It by far is the best price, but my question is the site requires a company name to order, what gives? How can I as an individual purchase it from amazon or ebay but not kanolabs?
 
I'll give you a hint... Kano is still sending brochures to a company called Mickey Mouse Fabrication Inc at my home address every year or so :laugh2:
 
I usually use the stuff I keep for the guns on stuck bolts, I've used a lot of others and found them to all work about the same when heat is applied PB blaster and Deepcreep work well once you get out the torch, however I don't heat things up until they're glowing red, just enough to get the expansion/contraction.

Typically I use kroil, hoppes #9 or rem-oil. Rem oil is for light assembly work, or squeaky hinges/parts, hoppes #9 for rusted parts, and kroil for stuck parts (as well as re-assembling suspension parts if I can't use grease).
 
I've had good luck with ATF and acetone, but it doesn't keep, so you have to have the ingredients on hand. Diesel fuel is better than you'd expect too. I haven't tried diesel and acetone, but that might be pretty good. The main thing is to get something to penetrate. Exactly what is less important. If you get any penetration and any movement at all, you likely win if you're patient.
 
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