axle choices

[The Hard Struggler]

Flipped 14 bolts front and rear. MIGHT be enough for 36" Iroks.:twak:

 

[jeeperjohn]

Anything smaller than a D60 is gonna fold like a taco :gee:

 

[rkates]

your guestion is, "im on 6.5" of lift and running 36s. what axles do i need.?" here, if you want someone to hold your hand:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1049340

i really think that if you have to ask this question, your really not knowledgable enough to undertake it yourself without a lot of frustration and determination. unless when you say, "i can throw all kinds of money at it," you mean, "im going to pay someone to do this for me."

!!!1

If you go back to the original post the question is at what height will you start to have drive line issues on the lo pinion axle. Not at one point in the thread did I ask what axle should I get.

The whole "to lazy to search" thing started as a joke because every time I get in the modified section all I see is another title for the same question asked 2 threads ago. My fault I forgot to throw some sort of smiley in there.

And by the way throwing money at an axle is parts amd material to beef it up not paying someone else to do the work for me. So next time you think your knowlegeable enough to reply read the post rather than skimming through it.

 

[beakie]

you could cut and turn the knuckles, allowing you to point the pinion at the t-case, in which case the "height" could be whatever you want it to be within reason.

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

If you go back to the original post the question is at what height will you start to have drive line issues on the lo pinion axle. Not at one point in the thread did I ask what axle should I get.

The whole "to lazy to search" thing started as a joke because every time I get in the modified section all I see is another title for the same question asked 2 threads ago. My fault I forgot to throw some sort of smiley in there.

And by the way throwing money at an axle is parts amd material to beef it up not paying someone else to do the work for me. So next time you think your knowlegeable enough to reply read the post rather than skimming through it.

if your planning to keep your 30 as the original post stated:
TJ guys lift well around 6.5" running stock LP30s and 44s, they are plenty capable. but most serious TJ owners swap LP30s our for at least HP30s and the current trend is less lift with highline fenders. john D wheeled his 30 on 35s with stock (i think) shafts. i cant say if hes ever broken one (one reason for his 44 swap was the piece of mind) but it seemed pretty capable to me.

there is always the super 30 kit that upgrades you to a 30 spline shaft and super beef u-joints. ive seen two accounts of them run on 37s with no issues, at least they never broke around me. but even with a super stout diff cover, full case locker, and heavy trussing im not sure if id trust it up to that big. your R&P is your weak link at that point.

as far as the rubi 44:
which rubi are we talking here. the TJ 44 is nothing but a 44 center section, everything else is pretty much D30 to my knowledge. im sure it could be made stronger than a super30, but why? just to gain the bigger ring and pinion? then youve still got a LP axle. take a look at the link i gave you for some front axle ideas.

now, the JK 44 is a whole new ball game. it may be LP but the R&P is as big as they come. ive heard stories of it handling 40s once polished, but thats not a personal account.






you really need to consider what you want out of it. full width? narrowed? whats your budget? how much time can you devote to it? do you have an ETA of when you want it done? there may be an axle better suited for your needs than the rubi model, or maybe youve got a killer deal lined up on one that we dont know about. either way, you have options if you have money.

(but i dont know anything... so dont worry about anything i wrote)

 

[tonysinnette]

Ive heard the opposite of the JK 44. Pretty much everyone I have seen keeping them is at least sleeving the tubes and gusseting the c's. You can even buy a kit for adding strengh to them. If you are going to drop some coin on a 44, just keep in mind that a Rubi 44 is not the same thing as say a Ford 44. Like beakie said as far as driveline issues, you may need to cut and rotate your C's, but most people swap to a HP axle for the clearance, not the angles. Also keep in mind with the swap you will need new wheels, you will have to either swap the rear or add spacers\adapters, new brackets (I cut and used the old brackets off of my 30, not worth the effort, just buy new ones), and all of the other fun stuff. Make sure you do your homework before you start so your well prepaired. Fot what it would cost to swap in a 44, you could probably beef up your 30 to handle 36's depending on your driving style.

 

[rkates]

Now even with 6.5'' of lift on a tj the longer driveshaft makes driveline angles less of a problem.(so I hear) Originally when I posted this thread I was thinking tj 44 but have actually decided against it as of now. Had a set of axles fall in my lap so to say.

I've dealt with the JK 44's and they seem to be very strong, If you get on jeep forum see the pumpkinator build thread, I built the bottom half of his jeep and he is still trying to break the stock 44's. And yes tonysinnette you have to truss or sleeve the tubes on those to make them stronger because of how week the tubes are.

Time and money are always an issue. But for the time being I have working axles in the jeep, but come spring the front is on borrowed time. I'm hoping to be able to finish and install the new front before I destroy the 30 thats in it. Hoping to sell the 30 while its still worth something.(locked and geared)