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AW4 PROBLEMS

Re: Re: AW4 PROBLEMS

maby the TCU crapped out, go steal Brandon's for a min :dunno:

So turns out brandon and I have different TCU his is a little more narrow where mine is a bit more bulky and the plugs are just slightly different... just gonna have to buy a new one I guess...
 
So here's where I stand. I replaced the TCU. Reset the brain and took her for a drive. And back to square one. Missin 3rd gear. So I got frustrated slammed the pedal down to the floor and at 5000 rpms the sumbeech shifted into 3rd and then into 4th. So I pulled over and started from a stop and she's been shifting fine. Which leaves me scratching my head... I'm gonna wait for her to cool down before I drive her again to see what it does then..
 
Make sure the ignition is OFF!!

An easy way to test for power and ground is to pull the connector off the TCU (on your 1998 it is located on the transmission tunnel just above and toward you from the gas pedal). The connector has three fat pins on one side and two on the other, with smaller pins in between. Holding the connector so the three fat pins are on the right, probe the second pin from the right on the bottom row -- it should show battery voltage. Be careful, you don't want to short this pin to anything else!

Now set your meter to ohms and probe each of the three fat pins on the top row. Each should show about 13 ohms resistance -- if they show significantly more and all are the same, you have a bad ground. If only one or two shows excessive resistance, the individual solenoids are bad or have poor connections.

Bad connections can occur within the transmission, the connector at the transmission, the connector right next to the transmission oil dip stick, or in the wiring harness itself.

The approach I would take if it isn't a bad ground (all solenoids show high resistance) or lack of battery voltage is to probe the connector next to the transmission oil dipstick. If it shows the same excessive resistance then I would probe at the connector at the transmission.

Report back what you find and we will help you focus on the trouble spot.
 
Re: Re: AW4 PROBLEMS

id say the solenoid was stuck with the fluid looking like it did.. have you figured out how to test them? ill look and see if I can find. 97 right?

Bronze.

I still haven't figured out a way to test them I'm still puzzled while the jeep is running just fine. But I need to figure this out so I'm digging for info myself.
 
I know you can pop the pan and test them individually, im looking for a way to do so via firewall plug. I did it with the 90. im sure the plugs changed

Bronze.

gotem!

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So, if you can find this plug. it should be on the firewall around the back of the valve cover area. get your multi meter set to Ohm's. black wire from the multi meter into pin24. Then the red wire goes into the pin for each solenoid one at a time. they should be between 13 and 16 ohm's. Anything over 11 should be good enough to give a consistent shift. pins 11, 12, and 13.

Hope that makes a little more since. call me if you need man.

Bronze.
 
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Alright! Problem solved... crawled under the jeep dropped the pan and tested me some solenoids!! Well turns out... The solenoid for third was burnt up. So not wanting to pay 250 all over town for one, bronze was gonna bring me some that ended up being the wrong ones when I got to looking at em. So I called portland transmission warehouse and bought 2 for 130 go down to pick them up and they weren't the right style. I needed the style with the snap ring in the end. After they did some digging around they found the solenoids mounted to a different bracket. So I needed to swap one off onto my bracket.

Took it off this bad boy
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Slapped it onto this bracket. Mounted her on slapped a gasket on the pan and shut her up and gave her some oil to drink on. Put my cross member back on long arms back in and drove her and she shifts great! Thanks everyone for the input especially you Bronzewyrm! Bmikes thank you for your assistance this evening you rock man.
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