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Another Overheating Issue... Grrr

Senior_XJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
NY
Before i go into details & get blasted with people tellin me to search, lets put some stats on the table as to where i am at this point in time on this cooling issue...

My 1995 4.0L HO is equipped with the following:
-CSF 3 row radiator, 3yrs old.
-Hesco hi-flow water pump, 3yrs old.
-Bored out t-housing, 3yrs old.
-All hoses & fittings are good.

Other engine mods worth mentioning:
-MSD full ignition, 3G spark plugs.
-Air tight homemade snorkel. Acts as ram air into a K&N filter!
-140 amp alt, (upgrading to a 200 soon)
-Yellow top optima, (upgrading to a dual bat setup soon)
-Flowmaster 40 w/hi-flow cat, 3yrs old.
-Running full synthetic fluids, changed 3 months ago.

And now shes overheating AGAIN!! The overflow container is filling up bit by bit on any 15+ min drives no matter if highway or street,, no matter if 75 deg or 95 deg out!! Have to keep adding antifreeze to the rad when on the return trip home. WTF??

Only mods i have not done is removing the clutch fan & adding in an elec fan with a well fitting shroud, & adding in hood vents, which im planning to do now!! I have a 1997+ model aux fan w/override switch, BUT i think it needs replacing so im goin for a dual or tripple fan setup. Also have a new 180 stat & new temp sensor to go in when i flush the system. Ive heard the piping is small on the 3 row design & im contenplating makin the move to an aluminum rad with an aluminum shroud for the elec fans.

Would anyone reccomend biting the bullet & goin full out for a system such as this one: http://www.ffdynamics.com/jeepradextb1.html Ive heard good things with this system like the low amp draw & that each fan can be controlled individually & are weather resistant. They had an older setup "the tripple threat" that got shooty reviews, BUT this one now has improved fans, a perfect fitting aluminum shrowd & enough pulling power to properly take the place of the mechanical fan. Its also a drop in fit thats a big headache saver from fitting in a taurus fan that has a HIGH amp drain!! Also lookin at a Derale dual 12" fan w/shroud setup BUT havent been able to price it out yet.

Any reccomendations, or honest & NICELY STATED opinions, before i spend the $500 buckeroooz?? Maybe i should flush it FIRST, & see if the problem still exists??
 
3yrs ??? ... a flush wouldnt hurt

Fancy fans and holes in your hood wont fix a faulty radiator cap ... or a sticky thermostat ... or a fanclutch that only needs replacing.

Id check the basics first .... and then make conversions after that ... IF they were needed.

What actual temps are occurring ??
Antifreeze mix is only 50/50 eth-gly/water ??
Weather temps higher than normal ??

You shouldn't have to add liquid to the radiator if overflow is going to the bottle ... only if the system is losing it completely.

Liquid in the bottle should be drawn back into the radiator as the system cools ..... If its staying in the bottle then there is less liquid in the radiator to cool the engine ... and temps increase as they should.

"Normally" - the reason for no return flow ... is a faulty radiator cap.
 
-Sounds like both of u are on target... the anti-freese is either a 60/40 or 50/50 mixture & is NOT returning to the rad & i have 2 keep adding some directly into the rad..

-Yesterday i tapped the cap feeling for the temp & as i hit it it began to leak!!! I was like wtf?? It did it again later on with the temp needle right at the begining of the red zone,, prob 240-250ish but this time nothin touched it!!!!

-Aux fan is loose for some odd reason so that aint helpin much either...

-I'll flush the sys, put the new stat in & sensor & see what i can do about the cap...
THANX GUYS!!
 
Have you checked your oil dipstick?

My first instinct was a timing issue. But you mentioned having to fill up the cooling system.

Why did you re-plumb the whole system? Were you having over-heating issues before?

E
 
-Sounds like both of u are on target... the anti-freese is either a 60/40 or 50/50 mixture & is NOT returning to the rad & i have 2 keep adding some directly into the rad..

-Yesterday i tapped the cap feeling for the temp & as i hit it it began to leak!!! I was like wtf?? It did it again later on with the temp needle right at the begining of the red zone,, prob 240-250ish but this time nothin touched it!!!!

-Aux fan is loose for some odd reason so that aint helpin much either...

-I'll flush the sys, put the new stat in & sensor & see what i can do about the cap...
THANX GUYS!!

60/40 mix is ideal for when off on a polar bear hunt ...
50/50 is an adequate average for general use ...
30/70 will help in hot temps.

Theres mix tables on the internet for different applications.

The green stuff might have a higher boiling temp than water ... but it doesnt cool as good as water. Too much of it can cause hot running.

Nothing like the ol tap and poke test method .... sounds like radiator cap ... ;)
 
another thing: see if your rad, overflow smells like exhaust, can be an indicator of a combustion chamber leak. (pushing exhaust gases into cooling system
 
Have you checked your oil dipstick?

My first instinct was a timing issue. But you mentioned having to fill up the cooling system.

Why did you re-plumb the whole system? Were you having over-heating issues before?

E


-Ive owned this puppy for 6 yrs & shes NEVER leaked or burnt up any oil EVER!! Last compression test was flat across the board & the head pressure test was 100% on point!! I pull the spark plugs every year just to see how the cylinders are doin & if theres any varience in there condition & not a single bit of trouble to date!!!! Full synthetic swap-over was done a bit ago, picked up an added 2 mpg, a 5mph higher avg speed on the highway, & a little decrease in running temp!! Last oil change was about 3 months ago & the oil is still clean as a whisle!!

-Never had a timing issue ever, but overheating, YES! Bought the hi-flow pump, t-housing, & 3-row rad together & installed it all at once. Helped some but puttin in the 97+ aux fan with an override switch was the cherry ontop & she did good all last summer. Had to flip the switch practically EVERY day but still was good 2 go!!

-I do remember the filler neck on my CSF rad got damaged during shipping & a bit of tedious work from "metal shapping" hammers were used to get the cap to seat right.

-Im gonna get it flushed & put in the new stat & sensor in tomorrow or over the weekend & see if it makes a difference. I'll have the filler neck looked at from a second opinions view & buy a new cap. Im gonna ditch the mechanical fan soon anyways & the aux is a bit beat up so im gonna order up a dual elec fan setup when ready.

Well see & thanx for the input!! :wave:
 
IMO&E
I run a Robert Shaw t-stat and the only one I found that works properly is from www.stewartcomponents.com. (not made in China)
I have a Hesco high flow water pump and found that the increased flow causes increased resistance on the impeller. the only way I could keep the belt from slipping on the pulley was to tighten the belt tensioner as tight as I could get it. I do not like this, as it increases the pressure on all of the belt driven components and could cause a bearing failure. Because of this concern, I'm switching back to a stock water pump in the near future. Will try to remember to post the results.
The water neck on my CFS rad. would not stay sealed, so I installed a 2nd rubber seal on the rad cap and have had no more neck/cap leaking issues.
30c/70w mix, 92 octane fuel, moving the intake temp sensor from the manifold to the air cleaner-richer A/F ratio, and using Royal Purple-Purple Ice all helped with cooling.
 
-Ive owned this puppy for 6 yrs & shes NEVER leaked or burnt up any oil EVER!! Last compression test was flat across the board & the head pressure test was 100% on point!! I pull the spark plugs every year just to see how the cylinders are doin & if theres any varience in there condition & not a single bit of trouble to date!!!! Full synthetic swap-over was done a bit ago, picked up an added 2 mpg, a 5mph higher avg speed on the highway, & a little decrease in running temp!! Last oil change was about 3 months ago & the oil is still clean as a whisle!!

-Never had a timing issue ever, but overheating...

I asked about the dipstick to see if any coolant is seeping into the oil. I also mentioned a timing issue because you have the MSD full ignition and 3G spark plugs.

I over heated once on my XJ and I burnt a valve and two springs. It ran fine, but would it would over heat in about 10 to 15 minutes. I'm not saying that it's a timing or head issue, but it could be possible.


...
-Never had a timing issue ever, but overheating, YES! Bought the hi-flow pump, t-housing, & 3-row rad together & installed it all at once. Helped some but puttin in the 97+ aux fan with an override switch was the cherry ontop & she did good all last summer. Had to flip the switch practically EVERY day but still was good 2 go!!

...

So, it sounds like the overheating issue never went away. All the stuff you did to it was just a band-aid.


Post up after you do the flush...


EDIT: I just saw your previous post about the cap. I would fix that right after the flush..

E
 
Does the Fan Clutch turn more freely when the engine is hot that its does cold?
If "yes"....then its bad...



The First thing that anyone does to solve a overheating issue is to check the Fan Clutch.



Replace the clutch with a HD one from NAPA and I bet you all your over heating problems will go away!

Also, you might be flowing the coolent too fast through the rad before it has a chance to drop in temp.
 
Last edited:
Does the Fan Clutch turn more freely when the engine is hot that its does cold?
If "yes"....then its bad...



The First thing that anyone does to solve a overheating issue is to check the Fan Clutch.



Replace the clutch with a HD one from NAPA and I bet you all your over heating problems will go away!

Also, you might be flowing the coolent too fast through the rad before it has a chance to drop in temp.

Faulty fan clutch should not cause overheating on the highway, anything above 35-40 MPH should be enough airflow to cool the motor whether there's a fan or not.

I'd go along with the faulty radiator cap since you're getting so much overflow. I'd also check that the vent tube from the cap to the overflow bottle is intact, otherwise it's going to suck air instead of coolant back.
 
-Well fellas, the problem has been found. I dont know when it happened BUT when i took a look at the mec fan,, it WAS NOT spinning... i took a closer look & the fan blades were jammed against the unibody rails & with the motor running, it just spins in place & the fan does nothing!!

Two things:
-1st: the motor mounts look like they can use replacing & those bullet-proof mounts are lookin good to me.
-2nd: i just had a PSC gear box installed with 3/16 plate re-enforcements on both sides of the rail w/crush sleeves & grade 8 hardware!! A rustys cross brace was then installed.
-It was NOT overheating then BUT shortly after i started!! Could the front be tweraked a bit??

*I took pics & vids & ill post em up tomorrow ok!!
Thanks for all the help & u guys ROCK!! :guitar: I feel like a dummy 4 not chatchin this issue sooner tho!!
 
If the fan hits the frame then I would guess the engine mounts are toast.

That much droop I would expect missing/sheared bolts in the engine brackets along with toasted mounts.
 
-Ur both right... the mounts are TOASTED!!!! (ill post pics)

-Any reccomendations like the "BOMB PROOF" mounts or should i just grab stock ones?? Remember, they WILL be submerged in mud from time to time!! LOL!!

-Thanks Guys!! :cheers:
 
I'd stick the stock ones with the unibody and all. Unibodys will transmit much more vibration than a body on frame truck will and unless your drag racing with you really don't need the HD mounts anyway really.
 
-Ordered brown dogs w/flex rubber bushings & the whole mount kit for $260ish.

-The fan damaged my CSF 3-row & THIS SUX!!! Its a small hole so should i try to fix it or just replace it?? Im puttin in a dual or trip elec fan setup since the clutch fan was toaseted but havin a bit of trouble findin some one stop shoppin here!!
-Tryin 2 find an affordable aluminum rad & then get fans 2 fit & get the shroud perfect while its out of the jeep & then its just a drop-in & bolt!!
 
CSF 3-row--I would fix it.

And congratulations on choosing Brown Dog!
 
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