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Air Charge Sensor (IAT, MAT) Renix vs HO

Those sites you linked are all ran by the same people and they are deceiving and will tell you anything to get the sale!

I ordered some leaf springs last month from them, site shows with bushings and the phone sales guy said it comes with bushings. 2 weeks later springs come with no bushings and they tell me I can buy new bushings from them.
Well you can guess how the rest went.
 
Ok, good news and bad news.

Good news 1:

This will do the job--its resistance values are the same as the Renix stock MAT:

http://www.injector.com/cart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=65&idcategory=12

Good news 2:

I just received TWO from them last month.

Bad news 1:

You will have to go to the salvage yard and get a connector with a section of harness to attach to it.

Bad news 2: It is a 3/8" NPT.

Good news 3:

Time to do that MAT relocation you have all ways wanted to do!

Good news 4:

There is a write up on the relocation: http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Basic_Sensors_Diagnostics.htm

That's All, Folks!

Good luck.
 
Fairly generic part, a lot of cars use pretty much the same. Try doing a part number search at the auto parts store for 33002382 (with pigtail) or 33004280 (without pigtail). The last one I bought was out of a 1990 monaco 4 banger.

Or a list I found on another forum,

AIRTEX


5S1004


AUTO-TUNE


PT9599


BIG A


53-1009


BORG WARNER


WT5502


CHRYSLER


33002382


ECHLIN


TS5016


FILKO


CS-62


GP/SORENSEN


779-19015


KEM


139-411


NAPA


TS5016


NIEHOFF


TS81351


NIEHOFF


WA629EL


STANDARD / HYGRADE


AX9


TOMCO


12120


WELLS


SU330
 
Why relocate it? Relocate it to where?
 
WebDog said:
I have been wanting to put mine on my intake!
Click to expand...

It is already in the intake (manifold).

Do you mean closer to the air inlet? If yes, it may cost you fuel mileage and may cause hard starts when hot.
 
I found this one listing the 87-01 as the same part,

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/intake-temperature-sensors-33004280.html

but it is missing the pigtail (1-01 had no pigtail), which gets back to what Joe_peters was suggesting below (I think).


Note to self I still need to research this list (but I have searched everywhere else for the last 4-5 months when the opportunity arose, but found nothing:

8Mud said:
Fairly generic part, a lot of cars use pretty much the same. Try doing a part number search at the auto parts store for 33002382 (with pigtail) or 33004280 (without pigtail). The last one I bought was out of a 1990 monaco 4 banger.

Or a list I found on another forum,

AIRTEX


5S1004


AUTO-TUNE


PT9599


BIG A


53-1009


BORG WARNER


WT5502


CHRYSLER


33002382


ECHLIN


TS5016


FILKO


CS-62


GP/SORENSEN


779-19015


KEM


139-411


NAPA


TS5016


NIEHOFF


TS81351


NIEHOFF


WA629EL


STANDARD / HYGRADE


AX9


TOMCO


12120


WELLS


SU330
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
old thread yes, but i need one i think. i am getting 1570 ohms with coolant temp at 200. how do i test it for true results? i may need to get a heat gun or something. i am assuming the air intake temp is what i need to measure, but how do i do that? still would like to just replace it with a new one if they are available.
 
2stix said:
old thread yes, but i need one i think. i am getting 1570 ohms with coolant temp at 200. how do i test it for true results? i may need to get a heat gun or something. i am assuming the air intake temp is what i need to measure, but how do i do that? still would like to just replace it with a new one if they are available.
Click to expand...

I use an IR temp gauge and assume the intake air is a little colder than the intake, like maybe 10 F cooler. Example ambient is 80 F, Intake is 150 F, so I assume the air in the intake is about 140 F at idle.

IIRC 1570 ohms would be telling the ECU the air is about 100 F? Yep, 1600 ohms is 100 F in the FSM.
 
ok so i got the sensor nice and warm and i am getting good readings. (low 300s). but if i plug the harness back in i get much higher readings. when i check the harness connector i get 1500 ohms. if i just check the ground wire in the connector (brown/white chaser) i get almost nothing, meaning a good ground. but if i check the ecu side i get the 1500 ohms. wether i use the ground wire or straight to bat neg. plus when i do connect my meter to the unpluged ecu side of the connector, my idle comes to where it is suppose to be. (i have been chasing a low idle for a while now). i have a feeling my ecu side wire is the culprit.
 
Cruiser’s Renix Sensor Ground Test
Set your meter to measure Ohms. Be sure the key is in the OFF position. Using the positive (red) lead of your ohmmeter, probe the B terminal of the flat 3 wire connector of the TPS . The letters are embossed on the connector itself.
Touch the black lead of your meter to the negative battery post. Wiggle the wiring harness where it runs parallel to the valve cover and also near the MAP sensor mounted on the firewall. If you have an 87 or 88 with the C101 connector mounted on the firewall above the brake booster, wiggle it, too.
Revised 04/09/2012
 
cruiser54 said:
Cruiser’s Renix Sensor Ground Test
Set your meter to measure Ohms. Be sure the key is in the OFF position. Using the positive (red) lead of your ohmmeter, probe the B terminal of the flat 3 wire connector of the TPS . The letters are embossed on the connector itself.
Touch the black lead of your meter to the negative battery post. Wiggle the wiring harness where it runs parallel to the valve cover and also near the MAP sensor mounted on the firewall. If you have an 87 or 88 with the C101 connector mounted on the firewall above the brake booster, wiggle it, too.
Revised 04/09/2012
Click to expand...

i have an 89 so i do not have the c101 connector.
i am also not testing the ground to the TPS as i allready know i have a good ground there. i am testing the MAT/IAT sensor and its wiring. i also have tested the sensor disconnected and found it to read correct specs. but when connected to the harness i get a huge increase in ohms. and the ground side of the harness to the MAT is getting zero ohms, which makes me believe the sensor wire itself is either damaged, or there is a fault inside the ECU. i have also swapped to another ECU with no change. not to say the other ECU is not bad also as it came from a non running parts jeep.
 
Was the power off during the test? Or on? Check it for voltage!!! Report back.

Either way, you may getting some kind of feedback error. I am having a hard time picturing what the layout is when you are getting the high ohm reading.
 
key off connector plugged and back probed =949ohms / 0 volts
key off connector disconnected measured at sensor = 1426ohms / 0 volts
key off connector disconnected measured at harness = 1470ohms / 0 volts

key on/ engine off plugged and back probed = 0 ohms / 2.43 volts
key on/ engine off connector disconnected measured at sensor = 1450ohms / 0 volts
key on/ engine off connector disconnected measured at harness = 0 ohms / 5.04 volts

engine running plugged and back probed = 0 ohms / 2.53 volts
engine running connector disconnected measured at sensor = 1454 ohms / 0 volts
engine running connector disconnected measured at harness = 0 ohms / 5.04 volts

this was done on mostly cool engine just this eve. i will try again tomorrow with a warm engine as it should be. still the numbers seem a little weird to me. maybe i am just fried. this thing is kicking my buttocks.
 
key off connector plugged and back probed =949ohms / 0 volts
key off connector disconnected measured at sensor = 1426ohms / 0 volts
key off connector disconnected measured at harness = 1470ohms / 0 volts

key on/ engine off plugged and back probed = 0 ohms / 2.43 volts
key on/ engine off connector disconnected measured at sensor = 1450ohms / 0 volts
key on/ engine off connector disconnected measured at harness = 0 ohms / 5.04 volts

engine running plugged and back probed = 0 ohms / 2.53 volts
engine running connector disconnected measured at sensor = 1454 ohms / 0 volts
engine running connector disconnected measured at harness = 0 ohms / 5.04 volts

this was done on mostly cool engine just this eve. i will try again tomorrow with a warm engine as it should be. still the numbers seem a little weird to me. maybe i am just fried. this thing is kicking my buttocks.
 
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