Aftermarket Antisway bars

[JeepSpeed]

Sorry guys, I know this has been beaten to death before, but I couldn't find the exact information I needed in the Search. My bad. Annnnnyyyyways, I've realized that money is far too tight right now for all new shocks, so I want to go the swaybar route to tighten up handling a lil right now.

Question is, should I upgrade the front or rear bar? I think that understeer is Satan at work in a car, and I don't mind and can control oversteer very well. Would getting a bigger rear bar or a bigger front bar help my handling more? (And keeping away from understeer) I have a stock height, stock suspended 94 XJ 2WD, without UpCountry.



And I can't afford both. Yet. Thanks alot for any responses.

 

[bzdel2441]

well i think it would be cheaper just to get new shocks esp. if you need them... A quick look at Addco (only company that makes Xj sways) and they are about $150 a bar... Shocks would be a far better off deal, what you can do is always upgrade to the XJ "Limited Edt" sway bars, they came with the thickest, hell people give em away from free on here...

 

[dmillion]

It is the front swaybar that you want to upgrade. The rear doesn't do much, and really might as well be removed.

What size swaybar do you have now? If it is less than 28mm you can get a cheap upgrade by going to a junkyard and getting a 28mm bar (the largest they put on XJs). I got one for $10 at the local pull-n-save.

 

[xuv-this]

Sorry guys, I know this has been beaten to death before, but I couldn't find the exact information I needed in the Search. My bad. Annnnnyyyyways, I've realized that money is far too tight right now for all new shocks, so I want to go the swaybar route to tighten up handling a lil right now.

Question is, should I upgrade the front or rear bar? I think that understeer is Satan at work in a car, and I don't mind and can control oversteer very well. Would getting a bigger rear bar or a bigger front bar help my handling more? (And keeping away from understeer) I have a stock height, stock suspended 94 XJ 2WD, without UpCountry.



And I can't afford both. Yet. Thanks alot for any responses.

yup. rear doesn't do crap. the jeepspeed website would prob. have some tech and look at the store links or ask someone over there.
also, look at how the rear shocks are angled. when the body wants to roll, it pulls pretty much in a straight line against the shocks. this is 1 reason they handle so well stock. i would also reccomend front poly bushings, but first what is your lift setup?

 

[Kittrell]

but first what is your lift setup?

I have a stock height, stock suspended 94 XJ 2WD, without UpCountry.

To easy for ya...............:dunno:

 

[Kittrell]

It is the front swaybar that you want to upgrade. The rear doesn't do much, and really might as well be removed.

What size swaybar do you have now? If it is less than 28mm you can get a cheap upgrade by going to a junkyard and getting a 28mm bar (the largest they put on XJs). I got one for $10 at the local pull-n-save.

What he said. Addco use to offer Military Sway Bars that were pretty stout. But you can't get those anymore. Now you can only get a 28mm for the front and a 22mm for the rear. No reason to spend $150 for something you can get in the junkyard for $10.............. :lecture:

 

[xuv-this]

To easy for ya...............:dunno:

durrr, my bad. :doh: yup, bilstein 5000 series shocks, poly swaybar and UCA bushings, wider tires(10-11") on more backspacing, and poly on the rear shackles if you don't mind rough ride, and that thing will outhandle a cayenne turbo if you know how to drive. :gag: :shhh:

 

[DeftwillP]

What he said. Addco use to offer Military Sway Bars that were pretty stout. But you can't get those anymore. Now you can only get a 28mm for the front and a 22mm for the rear. No reason to spend $150 for something you can get in the junkyard for $10.............. :lecture:

Are you serious???? All this time, I've been pining and budgeting for a front bar(I'm newly married, its her money, not ours), and the upcountry bar is the same size!!!

28mm = 1.125in = the size of the GDamn addco's!!!

 

[rsalemi]

28 MM - 1 1/8" front bar found on some 87 - 90 Limiteds, Laredos, etc. Installed with energy suspension poly bushings and poly link bushings will tighten up the ride considerably
Also 5/8" rear energy suspension on rear helps.

 

[DeftwillP]

Okay, I just bought a cheap HF caliper. When I measured my front bar in a couple of places, it comes out to 20mm in every spot. I didn't know they made them this small. Its a 96 sport, no tow, no 4wd.

 

[JeepSpeed]

Thanks guys, but yeah, junkyards around me suck. I get so jealous of stories about sweet finds, cuz I can rarely find an XJ at all, very rarely a 4.0L, and never a HO.


Between the price of the shocks and about 100 bones to install them, I'm looking at about $400 right? That's what I thought, so that is really not a cheaper option at all. Correct me if I'm wrong. (Or can I install them?)


About the bushings, how much would I be in the hole to upgrade them all to polys? And do I need a press or anything like that to install them?

Thanks alot for all the responses guys.

 

[goodburbon]

ok you're waaay overbudget with 400 on shocks
and its easy as pie to change them. 3 bolts each, soak in pb blaster for 1 week ahead of time and then unbolt the old ones, bolt in the new ones

you could get 4 rancho 9000s for 320 or less, and you dont need all of that.

cheap shocks are 20 bucks apiece, fair shocks are 40 bucks apiece, and top of the line shocks are 200 a piece give or take.

 

[MaXJohnson]

Question is, should I upgrade the front or rear bar? I think that understeer is Satan at work in a car, and I don't mind and can control oversteer very well. Would getting a bigger rear bar or a bigger front bar help my handling more? (And keeping away from understeer) I have a stock height, stock suspended 94 XJ 2WD, without UpCountry.

You don't want a thicker front bar if you're trying to reduce oversteer. Just the opposite; less in the front or more in the rear. The best option is to go to a larger bar in the rear. That will increase rear roll stiffness, moving you more towards oversteer and will also reduce overall body roll.

 

[xuv-this]

Thanks guys, but yeah, junkyards around me suck. I get so jealous of stories about sweet finds, cuz I can rarely find an XJ at all, very rarely a 4.0L, and never a HO.


Between the price of the shocks and about 100 bones to install them, I'm looking at about $400 right? That's what I thought, so that is really not a cheaper option at all. Correct me if I'm wrong. (Or can I install them?)


About the bushings, how much would I be in the hole to upgrade them all to polys? And do I need a press or anything like that to install them?

Thanks alot for all the responses guys.

1) i personally think that you don't need a bigger front bar if you get bushings. i have no rear sway and tomken 4" lift leafs, with bilsteins, and my truck sways less then a lot of cars around corners. if you still want a bigger bar, pm me and i can get you whatever you need from a cop xj.
2) i'm gonna be honest, the control arm bushings are a PITA to install. you can make do with a good vice, a C clamp or 2, a hairdryer, a BAFH and a lot of wd40. BUT there is a reason they're so hard to install. they fit REALLY TIGHT. that has a lot to do with why it rolls less. you would understand my reason why better when/if you install them. they take up every single space to make stuff move only where it needs to.

 

[JeepSpeed]

1) i personally think that you don't need a bigger front bar if you get bushings. i have no rear sway and tomken 4" lift leafs, with bilsteins, and my truck sways less then a lot of cars around corners. if you still want a bigger bar, pm me and i can get you whatever you need from a cop xj.
2) i'm gonna be honest, the control arm bushings are a PITA to install. you can make do with a good vice, a C clamp or 2, a hairdryer, a BAFH and a lot of wd40. BUT there is a reason they're so hard to install. they fit REALLY TIGHT. that has a lot to do with why it rolls less. you would understand my reason why better when/if you install them. they take up every single space to make stuff move only where it needs to.

1) Interesting. Yeah, I know that most lifted rigs disco at least the back bar, but in my app, I think they work to a degree. My swaybar endlink snapped about 2 weeks ago, and I could feel a difference in cornering until I replaced it. The police package idea is great, I'll PM you soon for details on that.
2)Hmmm, I'm never afraid of working on my truck, and can tackle any job I've tried in the past 3 1/2 years, so the bushings might be a good choice. Any idea on a price for a whole suspension kit?

Thanks alot.

 

[JeepSpeed]

You don't want a thicker front bar if you're trying to reduce oversteer. Just the opposite; less in the front or more in the rear. The best option is to go to a larger bar in the rear. That will increase rear roll stiffness, moving you more towards oversteer and will also reduce overall body roll.

Sorry, don't think I was clear in the first post. I don't want to reduce oversteer. Actually, I wouldn't mind if it increased a little. I just don't want any increase in understeer. I'm mostly just looking for overall sharper handling through reduced body roll. So I guess a big rear bars my best option....

 

[MaXJohnson]

Sorry, don't think I was clear in the first post. I don't want to reduce oversteer. Actually, I wouldn't mind if it increased a little. I just don't want any increase in understeer. I'm mostly just looking for overall sharper handling through reduced body roll. So I guess a big rear bars my best option....

reducing body roll doesn't improve handling; at least not on a vehicle with solid axles.

Increasing roll stiffness is common in the world of IFS/IRS vehicles. Reducing body roll reduces problems with camber changes. Controlling camber is necessary to optimize the tire contact patch for maximum grip. If it wasn't for camber changes, the rule would be "softer is better", even with added body roll.

On a solid axle, camber is maintained regardless of body roll angle. Roll stiffness is adjusted to balance front to rear traction. Reducing oversteer is the same thing as increasing understeer and visa-versa. It's only a matter of perspective.

I did understand what you are trying to achieve, a reduction in "understeer", which equates to an increase in "oversteer". I meant to say "You don't want a thicker front bar if you're trying to reduce understeer. Just the opposite..."

 

[phaythe]

MaX has the best advice here. Rear bar DOES help. And you will notice a difference if you go for a bigger one. Although I'd still say new shocks are going to benefit you more if indeed yours are going bad. I personally would go for having some bars bent custom, but then I also have a friend that can do that for me for free...going to have some made for my Neon pretty soon. But, I'd go for a set of 28/22s if I were you. Going to be cheap to pick up off someone here in the forums, and you'll notice the difference. Still, shocks first!

 

[Atl XJ]

Between the price of the shocks and about 100 bones to install them, I'm looking at about $400 right? That's what I thought, so that is really not a cheaper option at all. Correct me if I'm wrong. (Or can I install them?)

You can get four Bilsteins for right at $200 and shocks are very easy to install and you only need basic tools. The only problem you might run into is rust since you have a northern XJ. Just start soaking everything really well with a good penetrating oil for a few days before hand and everything will come off much easier. Then use caution and dont get too wrench happy or use too big of a wrench and you will be fine. Luckily my Jeep has been in Atlanta all of its life so It doesnt have a spec of rust on it. It makes working on things sooo much easier.

I also agree that you will see a bigger improvement going to good performance shocks than you would upgrading the sways. Plus, you wont ever have to worry about shocks again if you get a good brand like Bilstein. They have a lifetime warranty and they last forever on top of that.

 

[DeftwillP]

Okay, I just bought a cheap HF caliper. When I measured my front bar in a couple of places, it comes out to 20mm in every spot. I didn't know they made them this small. Its a 96 sport, no tow, no 4wd.

It would help if I know how to use the thing. My front bar is actually 26mm. If I upgraded to poly bushings, would I actually know the difference vs. 28 w/ poly?

What about the rear? My bar is only 16mm?!? Thats only a 5/8 inch bar. I'm pretty sure addco is the only one that makes an aftermarket rear bar. Did stock sizes vary any??