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Adjustable track bar question

ECKSJAY said:
How is that an option? That IS an RE trackbar and mount in function and construction, it just costs $5 less than the one on RE's site. WOW.
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Ok how many ways is there to produce the bracket. So it does look similiar to the RE, only built better IMHO. I was just posting that to show that RE is not the ONLY one on the market. And the trackbar is much beefier that RE's as well as using different bushing at the axle end as well as bent different. The T&T bracket moves the mount foward some as well.
 
ECKSJAY said:
How is that an option?
Click to expand...

Meaning what? Better yet why isn't it an option?

ECKSJAY said:
That IS an RE trackbar and mount in function and construction, it just costs $5 less than the one on RE's site. WOW.
Click to expand...

Really? I'll give you the functional part, how else would a track bar function? :rolleyes:

On the construction statement I will have to disagree with you. :) Our drop bracket is CNC formed out of one piece of steel, there are no welds in shear. Our trackbar well, without cutting them apart you don't have anything to compare, so you made an assumption. (ours is .250" and RE is .120") Our's uses a 1.125-12 direct threaded assembly, theirs is 1.000-12 with a tube insert. Ours has a maximum of 3" of thread engagement, theirs has about 1.25" maximum. We offer a 3.5"-5.5" lift AND 6"+ version theirs is 4"-6" only. We use a dual elastomer at the axle end which gives better flexibility and life, everyone elses is a hard poly bushing.

Oh and your math is off a little too... ;) Check the links below:

RE1660

RE1665

My calculator shows a $27.95 difference. Now total both up with shipping...
 
More than 3 hours of silence on this thread... :D

I know that, when looking at the pictures on the internet, the two pieces look to be the same. Visibly (from a distance) they really are very similar but that's as far as the similarities go.

The design of the TNT piece is really centered around strength and durability. Since it's a stronger design and made from beefier material, I'd have to disagree that they're the same part.

Many of the aftermarket trac-bar brackets are very similar and all of them follow the same theme. The differences between all of them is how the littler pieces interlace and come together to form the finished product. Since the trac-bar has to go where it does (or very close in proximity) you really can't change the design too drastically...to be fair, every aftermarket DTB is really a knock-off of the stock unit mostly because every MFG tries to use the stock mounting holes as to not complicate things more than they need to be at install.

If you're gonna spend the money I can't see why anyone would buy a part that's weaker for more $$$. That's easy for me to say though, I had 7 different DTB's before I found the one I would endorse.

Happy Holidays guys/gals. Safe travels where ever you may go...

Matt
 
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Well since I did start this thread I guess Ill just go ahead and let everyone know that I went ahead and got the RE 1660 and HD mount. Its on its way as I speek. Along with a Currie HD tierod and drag link setup, a AGR TC pump, and two new MT Claw Radials that my F'd up steering chewed up. So Im just alittle excited.
 
Rock Yacht said:
On the construction statement I will have to disagree with you. :) Our drop bracket is CNC formed out of one piece of steel, there are no welds in shear. Our trackbar well, without cutting them apart you don't have anything to compare, so you made an assumption. (ours is .250" and RE is .120") Our's uses a 1.125-12 direct threaded assembly, theirs is 1.000-12 with a tube insert. Ours has a maximum of 3" of thread engagement, theirs has about 1.25" maximum. We offer a 3.5"-5.5" lift AND 6"+ version theirs is 4"-6" only. We use a dual elastomer at the axle end which gives better flexibility and life, everyone elses is a hard poly bushing.
Click to expand...

Ok, from a nontechnical observer/consumer with a little physics behind him, I like what you are saying about the TNT construction. Makes logical sense. Do you guys have any observations about stock mounts flexing? and do you feel the cross brace is necessary? It makes good logical sense. It seems our "uniframe" could use all the stiffening it can get??
Thanks for your input!
 
ChuckstrPT said:
Ok, from a nontechnical observer/consumer with a little physics behind him, I like what you are saying about the TNT construction. Makes logical sense. Do you guys have any observations about stock mounts flexing? and do you feel the cross brace is necessary? It makes good logical sense. It seems our "uniframe" could use all the stiffening it can get??
Thanks for your input!
Click to expand...

We've seen broken stock units and, based on how they've failed, we have to assume that the stock units do flex.

A cross brace may not be necessary if the bracket is sound. The bracket is only as sound as where it mounts (obviously installing a super durable bracket translates the weak point to the next weakest place). Based on how the DTB mounts, it shouldn't be able to move nor should it be able to break the unibody...this said, the unibody is still only a unibody. If it were determined that the unibody isn't strong enough, I'd probably make some changes to it - maybe sleeve it or something - yet, to be honest, I've never seen the unibody fail there so I have no compelling reason to make changes to it.

Until I see evidence that our DTB needs a cross-brace I think it's a fair assumption that using one is only a bandaid for a lesser design.

Matt
 
Motornoggin said:
I got my track bar from Kevin's Off Road and I am very pleased with it. It can be used on rigs that are stock height to 8" of lift.
Click to expand...

Ditto, have had my Kevins' Offroad trackbar on for a few weeks now, I LOVE IT. No ball joint on the upper, pretty much totally free's up the passenger side of the axle for way more droop than stock.

Of course, my no sway bar disconnect situation doesn't take advantage of that at the moment.

James
 
It's time to replace my Teraflex trackbar. I have a couple questions. Could you use the RE cross-brace with a T&T bracket? I'm sold on the T&T bracket but I also want the cross brace and would prefer not to spend the time making my own. Anybody that has the RE cross-brace, does it attach on the track-bar-mount-side of the frame rail above the mount or where? From just looking at it it seems like it would work unless it connects on the undrside of the bracket above where the super-flex joint bolts in, because the T&T doesn't open up like the RE one does. TIA.
 
GirlScout1 said:
I can tell you my RE1600 flexed the mount and the bar alot. I went to a HD 1660 and love it.
Click to expand...
I think that is the problem I'm experiencing too. It still bothers me though. Can't believe it made no noise prior to installing the RE1600. Could the stock track bar flex enough to avoid the mount flexing? Anyway, I'm thinking TnT mount, and pass on the cross brace, although I think that seems like good logic for our flexy unibodies....... I like the looks of the TnT bracket better.
Andy
 
I've been researching HD track bars and this thread covers all the systems I've been trying to decide between.

After installing Currie's HD steering linkage for the D30 (thanks XJ_Ranger!) I found out my stock track bar needs to be replaced. My situation is that I'm at 3 inches of lift up front right now, but will hopefully be going to about 6-6.5 this spring. This rig is my daily driver.

It looks like Kevin's is the only one that would work at both heights, but I don't like the sound of the play in the bushings, and I also don't like using a rebuilt upper mount. RE's and TnT's both sound like they take care of that, but it sounds like RE's won't be long enough for my planned lift. That leaves TnT's which from the design and strength standpoint I like, but the two different lengths available become the issue.

If I toss a few extra isolators on the coils and leave the axle slightly offset, would I be able to get by on the 6+ TnT system till the lift?
 
nhrocker said:
If I toss a few extra isolators on the coils and leave the axle slightly offset, would I be able to get by on the 6+ TnT system till the lift?
Click to expand...
To be honest with you, I'm only at 3 inches, but I think my slightly offset axle (while stock Trackbar was still on) was responsible for some funny tire wear. Since upgrading to adjustable Trackbar, tire wear seems to be normal again. And yes it's got a lifetime alignment, and I use it regularly.
HTH
 
I've got some bad uneven wear from running with the stock bar to begin with, and I've always gotten a shimmy when I go about 45-50 mph. Since installing the Currie steering the shimmy will sometimes develop into the start of DW, not all the way yet though, but it's slowly getting worse. It really sets it off when I'm going 45-50 uphill and turning slightly to the right.

So does anyone with the TnT 6+ kit think I could get by for a couple months on it at 3"?
 
nhrocker said:
I've got some bad uneven wear from running with the stock bar to begin with, and I've always gotten a shimmy when I go about 45-50 mph. Since installing the Currie steering the shimmy will sometimes develop into the start of DW, not all the way yet though, but it's slowly getting worse. It really sets it off when I'm going 45-50 uphill and turning slightly to the right.

So does anyone with the TnT 6+ kit think I could get by for a couple months on it at 3"?
Click to expand...

Bob and I have discussed this problem and have decided to make a third option for those of you stuck in the middle. We now offer a trac-bar system for those who are in the neighborhood of 5" - 7". This will allow you to be at the 5" mark and run the same kit as when you up your height to 6.5" or so. Those that are taller than 7.5" will need our larger trac-bar system still. I doubt if anyone knows this but if what we keep on the shelf doesn't work for you give us a call and we'll see what we can do to work with your particular setup.

To answer your question, you could use the 5" system on your rig for a short time but it will push your front end over a hair until you replace your springs (and other parts).

Matt
 
Thanks for the reply Matt, but I found another solution...

I might as well just redo the whole front end at the same time. I've been talking to Bob through emails already to find out about just buying everything I need through TnT. :laugh3: :wave:
 
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