99 4.0 Changing engine ?'s and tips needed

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

Separation Anxiety!!!!:flamemad:

All bolts out and trying to move engine slightly forward but no budge! Checked all around the housing and all bolts out with feeling and visual.

Any recommendations? Ill keep wrestling this beast for now..

...you could try eating some wheaties

 

[Talyn]

Also the rad has been removed but what about the ac? thinking of just leaving it and crossing fingers.

The AC will be fine. What I do is I remove the battery and put the compressor where the battery was. Steering pump goes where the air box was. The AC evaporator will not be in the way of extracting the engine.

As for bolts, there are 4 bolts that go in from the back of the bell housing and then there are two smaller ones that go through the aluminum plate into the bell housing. Those are accessed from the engine side of the bell housing. Don't forget those. One secures the transmission dipstick. If all bolts are removed and the engine is still not moving forward use a pry bar to separate them as there are two dowels that go from the engine block to the transmission.

 

[kastein]

You might need to see-saw the engine up and down a bit while pulling on it. If there is any side loading on the input shaft of the transmission (if you didn't unbolt the torque converter) it won't come out without some persuasion.

 

[Grreatdog]

I just did this and these guys have pretty much covered everything. I lifted the motor with the drivers side rear head bolt stud and an A/C bracket bolt. That said, the replacement motor was snatched out and carried to my truck by a giant front end loader using the intake manifold and it showed no harm from the abuse.

Getting the motor out at the junkyard required a SERIOUS snatch from the loader. Getting the motor out on mine at home required raising and lowering it with the shop crane several times and a bit of pry bar work at the dowels. The pry bar did the trick. Both were pulled with the torque converter attached.

As for the A/C, I left eveything intact and it is working fine. You have plenty of clearance to work with the A/C radiator and refrigerant lines in place. Just set the compressor aside in the battery tray as described. Same for the power steering pump. It was remarkably easy to put everything back together.

 

[xjon]

thanks for the replies!!! I finally got it out with a prybar and yes the torque converter came attached to the engine. I now have the engine on a stand with the flywheel off and ready to be picked apart for parts for the new engine.

Couple problems I came across with...torque converter dumped serious oil. A friend said it should have some trans oil in it but the oil that came out was more like engine oil.

Transmission bell housing broke apart. I knew it had a crack on it but I didnt know the crack went all the way around.

Finally look at this exhaust..is this normal? The dent I mean...and look at the trans shaft all wet with oil, is my tranny seal going bad?

 

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

...i have the same dent on my 99 exhaust.

 

[Talyn]

I would replace the torque converter seal while you you have it out. Also, drain the transmission pan and the torque converter. Fill the torque converter with fluid before you put it back on. I suggest putting the bellhousing and the torque converter back on before you put the engine in or if you put the engine in with the torque converter you are going to have hell linking the splines up.

 

[kastein]

thanks for the replies!!! I finally got it out with a prybar and yes the torque converter came attached to the engine. I now have the engine on a stand with the flywheel off and ready to be picked apart for parts for the new engine.

Couple problems I came across with...torque converter dumped serious oil. A friend said it should have some trans oil in it but the oil that came out was more like engine oil.

Transmission bell housing broke apart. I knew it had a crack on it but I didnt know the crack went all the way around.

Finally look at this exhaust..is this normal? The dent I mean...and look at the trans shaft all wet with oil, is my tranny seal going bad?

Torque converter may be burned up, did the transmission work fine and shift OK when you last drove it? You can pick up a remanufactured one for $160 or so, or just put that one back in. Compare the fluid to the fluid in the transmission - they should be roughly the same, though I'm not sure if the fluid actually circulates through the torque converter or not. It will dump some serious amounts of fluid because it's full of it, and sideways, with a hole halfway up the side. The fluid is pumped into it during operation around the shaft, so no, the seals are probably fine. The front input seal actually rides on the shiny part of the outside of the torque converter "neck". Speaking of which when you reassemble this beast, remove the torque converter from the flex plate (4 bolts, 15mm iirc) put the torque converter on the transmission and rotate it while pressing until it "clunks" inward a few times, the pilot "nose" should end up seated below the surface of the bellhousing. Otherwise you will likely chew up your transmission's input gear and get to do this all over again. You may have to use a lot of interesting words and shake the converter while turning it to get it to seat fully.

Exhaust looks fine, that dent is there to keep the front driveshaft from "self clearancing" the exhaust tubing when the springs compress fully.

 

[Talyn]

so no, the seals are probably fine.

From looking at the from of the transmission it looks like there has been a slow leak for a while.

 

[xjon]

Been cleaning the components and finally got to the oil pan. Saw chunks! here it is:

from cylinder 6

So what would make a piston shed its lower half? Do I need to take the heads off and find out what made this happen?

I was surprised to see no sludge inside the pan or the valve covers. From other posts ive searched that was the common theme.

Another question, the oil filter adapter when taken off from the block there is a little tube that I need to transfer to the new engine. How do you take this thing off or do I just go to a shop and purchase one?

All the replies have been helpful. I now remember to eat my wheaties every morning. Thanks!

 

[Talyn]

The dowel that clocks the oil adapter? You should be able to just pull it out with some priers.. or maybe Home depot/lowes/ace will have a new one.

I've seen this a lot with the later 4.0Ls. Maybe DC went with a weaker piston?

 

[kastein]

Wow!

Hope mine isn't that bad, I'm driving it to Pennsylvania and (hopefully) back the weekend after next. Good thing I've been planning on bringing a spare engine.

 

[xjon]

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn49/xjona/photo-14.jpg
Where doe this go? I'm afraid the answer is inside the timing cover?

 

[ROBZ95Xj]

Been cleaning the components and finally got to the oil pan. Saw chunks! here it is:

from cylinder 6

So what would make a piston shed its lower half? Do I need to take the heads off and find out what made this happen?

I was surprised to see no sludge inside the pan or the valve covers. From other posts ive searched that was the common theme.

Another question, the oil filter adapter when taken off from the block there is a little tube that I need to transfer to the new engine. How do you take this thing off or do I just go to a shop and purchase one?

All the replies have been helpful. I now remember to eat my wheaties every morning. Thanks!

gee your lucky i had no piston left in my 98, it also let go at 4800rpm's, there were pieces of it found in the intake and tb, as far as oil filter adapter, id honestly go all new just to make sure theres no pieces inside it

 

[xjon]

What is this...Im afraid you will say it goes inside the timing cover:doh:

 

[kastein]

Pretty sure that's an oil or dust slinger, but having never rebuilt a 4.0 I cannot tell you whether it goes inside or outside the seal.

My bet is inside though

 

[xjon]

nevermind...found the answer.:doh:
Its called the oil slinger and it does go inside the cover..."f" me:soapbox:

 

[joe_peters]

nevermind...found the answer.:doh:
Its called the oil slinger and it does go inside the cover..."f" me:soapbox:

WAIT--not sure but I believe the new version of the seal/HB you are supposed to eliminate the slinger.

Do a search on the HP/timing cover seal replacement and you should find the info.

 

[Talyn]

I have never seen a seal that stated you need to eliminate the oil slinger.

 

[xjon]

Whew...have engine and tranny mated. Just need to tighten up a few bolts here and there and hook everything up. Unfortunately had to remove the water pump so waiting for a gasket for that.

Question: How do I prime the block with coolant? Is there a specific way of doing it or just keep topping off the radiator? Because that block is bone dry, coolant wise.